Hi Guys,
I'm slowly converting an old radio into a guitar amp;
it has a 6X4 rectifier tube, & I want to replace the PS capacitors.
I have some 82uF (400v) on hand, would these be too big (cause to much start-up current)?
I'm thinking of using 3 all up in the B+ chain
(rectifier - cap - R - cap - R - cap)
(I'll probably eventually replace the tube with diodes, - but it's there, wired, & I'm very lazy....)
cheers,
Pete McK
I'm slowly converting an old radio into a guitar amp;
it has a 6X4 rectifier tube, & I want to replace the PS capacitors.
I have some 82uF (400v) on hand, would these be too big (cause to much start-up current)?
I'm thinking of using 3 all up in the B+ chain
(rectifier - cap - R - cap - R - cap)
(I'll probably eventually replace the tube with diodes, - but it's there, wired, & I'm very lazy....)
cheers,
Pete McK
Geek said:Hi,
I've used a 47uF in my headphone amp after a 6X4 and she hasn't quit even after years of service. Plenty of on/off cycles
you certainly use wimpy xformer
that can be explanation for long life of (nearly ) abused 6X4
arnoldc said:Hi choky!
I have a 6X4 rectifier which is somewhat noisy. Any tricks to make it silent? (not by changing it)
try to place some resistors in anodes (series with secondaries ) and also few nanofarads across "diodes" (A to K and A to K) ;if that no helps,than change it
6X4 must be dirt cheap ,even from your place ......
alexmoose said:What will happen? because I am making a project using a 6X4 Rectifier, that shows using 50uf caps in two LC filters
30H----50uf----30H----50uf
will it explode?
in your case L is buffer for excessive current hogging of wimpy 6X4.
in most books critical amount of capacitance for rectifier is implied for cap input filter;
with same logic-if you have cap input filter-use what is advised for rectifier in case,and after next R or L series element (with enough ohms or henries) ,you can put even Farad...............without harm....except that you'll must power up your gadget few days before listening
arnoldc said:In my place, beer is cheaper than tubes
yes-I can see that-from list of toobz on your site
Hi arnoldc,
Choky, er .... Zen Mod (I liked Choky better) was right in his approach to getting rid of the noise. As far as "wimpy" goes, how much current do you need??? I like it as a rectifier for small equipment. They are reliable and work just fine. Of course you could opt for a 5U4, or some larger types.
The choke input filter works very well for both the rectifier and transformer. I wouldn't change the arrangement at all.
-Chris
I guess you're going to have to buy lot's of beer and not worry about the 6X4!Choky, thanks for the info. In my place, beer is cheaper than tubes
Choky, er .... Zen Mod (I liked Choky better) was right in his approach to getting rid of the noise. As far as "wimpy" goes, how much current do you need??? I like it as a rectifier for small equipment. They are reliable and work just fine. Of course you could opt for a 5U4, or some larger types.
The choke input filter works very well for both the rectifier and transformer. I wouldn't change the arrangement at all.
-Chris
Hi Chris, I also like choky better re: beer, like Tony who posted on the Sy I give up thread, I like San Miguel Beer (and Corona too ) and during my younger days, I only have one serving for the night- a Mini Barrel
I'll try the 6X4 again with choky's recipe. I used it once- choke loaded and cap loaded, just don't have the patience (at that time) to troubleshoot. I like it though, it's cute
I'll try the 6X4 again with choky's recipe. I used it once- choke loaded and cap loaded, just don't have the patience (at that time) to troubleshoot. I like it though, it's cute
Hi,
I think the trick is to minimize the current spikes, allowing for a higher ripple voltage initially. You can get the ripple voltage down later. For a preamp, a regulator springs to mind. Why not? All critical circuits for test equipment and better audio have use regulators.
More tubes for your chassis alexmoose. And they will be there for good reason.
-Chris
I think the trick is to minimize the current spikes, allowing for a higher ripple voltage initially. You can get the ripple voltage down later. For a preamp, a regulator springs to mind. Why not? All critical circuits for test equipment and better audio have use regulators.
More tubes for your chassis alexmoose. And they will be there for good reason.
-Chris
Is there a good tube-based regulator that comes to mind? I see a good SS regulator on Gamie's Audio Lab
But I am trying to find something that allows for simple Point-to-Point soldering and I have heard great things about the 30h-50uf-30h-50uf with the preamp I am going to use
But I am trying to find something that allows for simple Point-to-Point soldering and I have heard great things about the 30h-50uf-30h-50uf with the preamp I am going to use
alexmoose said:Is there a good tube-based regulator that comes to mind? I see a good SS regulator on Gamie's Audio Lab
But I am trying to find something that allows for simple Point-to-Point soldering and I have heard great things about the 30h-50uf-30h-50uf with the preamp I am going to use
what final voltage and current you need?
VA ratings of xformer?
hehe,shunt with toobz is always on my mind
Hi Zen Mod,
At this point I generally use sand and PC boards to conserve on current. There is typically no extra heater current available.
alexmoose,
Try the L-C-L-C out. You an always try other circuits later. Keep in mind you need a minimum current draw to keep the inductors working as inductors. That will be specified by the manufacturer, but you can calculate it.
-Chris
At this point I generally use sand and PC boards to conserve on current. There is typically no extra heater current available.
alexmoose,
Try the L-C-L-C out. You an always try other circuits later. Keep in mind you need a minimum current draw to keep the inductors working as inductors. That will be specified by the manufacturer, but you can calculate it.
-Chris
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