Burning Amps

[AR2]

Measuring instrument

 

[AR2]

Instructions

 

[AR2]

Inside

 

[AR2]

Last one

 

[Nelson Pass]

Hahahahahaaaa....


Vladimir, you have style.

 

[steenoe]

Here is that Hafler Mosfet Matcher. Now that I am checking it, I see it is made for TO3 devices primarly, but TO247 fits as well.
I would like if someone could send me a schematic of your matching set up, so I could compare,

Thats a cool instrument. Looks like it could be something very close to the one in Fig.5, in Papa's PDF:
Mosfet testing

 

[AR2]

Hahahahahaaaa....


Vladimir, you have style.

 

[AR2]

Hahahahahaaaa....


Vladimir, you have style.

Sometimes my style is bad like this morning while I was working on my house.

 

[jacco vermeulen]

Oh dear, another nut on the block.

You can match Verticals with a Lateral MOSFET checker ?

 

[AR2]

Oh dear, another nut on the block.

I am in a good company. That is exactly what I am doing - windows and painting.

 

[olen]

I have Burning Amp #36, but I think I'm going to heed Mr. Pass' advice and build a F4 using the matched MOSFETs that are already professionally installed.

But I'm willing to help out, I have a decent amount of equipment: a somewhat recently calibrated HP DMM, a 4-channel 100MHz digital HP scope, and a dual tracking power supply.

I'm in the South Bay, but unfortunately I don't have the space to host. Most of my equipment is in storage.

-Olen

 

[FastEddy]

Amp #26 is now complete and working ...

Only mods to the chassis were mount holes for the modules and an upgrade to the fuse to 4 amps, quick blow ... and of course the "non-standard" Pass amp design.

Runs very cold, maybe 10 degrees F. above ambient, but time on line is less than 45 minutes, so, ...

Thanks Nelson ... this really makes an attractive setup in the living room. (I might add a pilot light (LED) to the lill' hole in front.)

 

[steenoe]

Amp #26 is now complete and working ...

Only mods to the chassis were mount holes for the modules and an upgrade to the fuse to 4 amps, quick blow ... and of course the "non-standard" Pass amp design.

Runs very cold, maybe 10 degrees F. above ambient, but time on line is less than 45 minutes, so, ...

Thanks Nelson ... this really makes an attractive setup in the living room. (I might add a pilot light (LED) to the lill' hole in front.)

Congrats Eddy, how does it sound??

 

[preiter]

Amp #26 is now complete and working ...

Only mods to the chassis were mount holes for the modules and an upgrade to the fuse to 4 amps, quick blow ... and of course the "non-standard" Pass amp design.

Runs very cold, maybe 10 degrees F. above ambient, but time on line is less than 45 minutes, so, ...

Thanks Nelson ... this really makes an attractive setup in the living room. (I might add a pilot light (LED) to the lill' hole in front.)

I want pics.

 

[FastEddy]

No time ... listening to it now ... Fleetwood Mac "the Dance"

http://www.amazon.com/Fleetwood-Mac-Dance-Lindsey-Buckingham/dp/630463949X/

Christy McVee is the female singer songwriter of the 20th Century ...

It isn't special outside = looks like the rest of the prototypes, inside my handy work is limited to stray runs and overkill of the silver = not pretty.

I got a new Kodak too ... Pics maybe first of the week.

 

[FastEddy]

topography: Oppo Digital 980 "universal" player (no mod yet) <to> Bottlehead Tube Preamp (with super supply add on) <to> The Amp (with AussieAmplifier.com NX400N modules = one half+ horsepower @ +/0/- 65 Vdc rails) <to> Magnapan 1.6 Planar speakers ~4 ohms. (I was going to add a sub woofer but this new amp covers that range nicely.)

Three hours on time = still less than 15 degrees F. above ambient of 72 dF.

 

[FastEddy]

Four hours in ... sudden rise in temp to +30 F. above ambient ... power down to cool.

Light it up again just now and smoke ...

N channel side of both modules = lights out. Oh well, fortunately I have more modules, but at a couple hundred per throw, this could get expensive ...

More late ....

 

[preiter]

Ack! That sucks.

Hopefully the rest of the amps won't be living up to the name of this thread.

 

[olen]

It isn't special outside = looks like the rest of the prototypes, inside my handy work is limited to stray runs and overkill of the silver = not pretty.

I got a new Kodak too ... Pics maybe first of the week.

My chassis has a few scuffs, and I'd like it to look as nice as I'm expecting it to sound. I'm planning to buy some "Birchwood Casey PAB Aluminum Black" that's supposed to do a decent job of touching up black anodized aluminum. Has anyone ever tried this stuff?

It's only around $10-15 shipped so it's not too expensive, I just don't want it to make my chassis look worse.

I guess I could test it on an inconspicuous spot first. I'll be sure to post before and after photos too.

Here's a link to a place that sells it (but it's not necessarily the cheapest):
http://www.pentagondefense.com/2150353.html

-Olen

 

[FastEddy]

It may be just me, but except for a blown power fuse, #26 checks out just fine.

amp to bench. top off, disconnect modules, test power supply (replace fuse), after bleeding the caps down, re-hooked the modules, tested with meters, 'scope, signal generator =

Tested the speakers, then hooked it all back up and am listening to it as I write (again).

http://www.amazon.com/Crossroads-Guitar-Festival-Eric-Clapton/dp/B0002Y4T92/ = Buddy Guy, Eric Clapton, et al ...

I should know better about the fuse. Wife and I got to dancing in the living room with it up loud ... and 4 amp fuse on a 120 VAC power line = > 450 watts, which is a bit much for a fuse from my junk box to take, I guess. I suppose the modules (capable of 400 watts, each) just sucked the life outta that old fuse ...

These Class AB MOSFETs are power amps, not just voltage or current amps. Low level music = little or no heat ... high level music from a 24 bit player (105 db range) will heat 'em up a bit.

... gotta go, James Taylor is up next ...