paint
Most likely, not a mixture at all. It's probably an acrylic modified polyester-polyurethane copolymer alloy. Plastic alloys provide enhanced durability and often combine the best features of both polymers in one system.
IOW, it makes the painted finish behave more like a plastic surface than a classic painted surface.
John L.
markus76 said:
Most likely, not a mixture at all. It's probably an acrylic modified polyester-polyurethane copolymer alloy. Plastic alloys provide enhanced durability and often combine the best features of both polymers in one system.
IOW, it makes the painted finish behave more like a plastic surface than a classic painted surface.
John L.
Re: paint
It acts more like a plastic surface and you have to be careful. It can takes days for an acrylic clear-coat to dry before it can be polished. But when dry it polishes very well as long as the compounds DON't contain petroleum distilates, because these will soften the surface and then it tears and does all kinds of bad things.
auplater said:
It acts more like a plastic surface and you have to be careful. It can takes days for an acrylic clear-coat to dry before it can be polished. But when dry it polishes very well as long as the compounds DON't contain petroleum distilates, because these will soften the surface and then it tears and does all kinds of bad things.
Re: Re: Re: paint
You by double sided lambs wool duff pads these are better than
the tie on lambs wool pads .
Its always better to finish of with a foam buff pad with a finer cutting compound then a soft foam pad with a swirl remover
followed by a hand polish .
Cheers
Hello auplater .auplater said:
You by double sided lambs wool duff pads these are better than
the tie on lambs wool pads .
Its always better to finish of with a foam buff pad with a finer cutting compound then a soft foam pad with a swirl remover
followed by a hand polish .
Cheers
Fini
Below is my finished Nathan10
Below is my finished Nathan10
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I am not sure about "mid bass" since it goes down to about 80-90 Hz, but yes, it is a bit recessed. I am looking into getting some sort of molding to put around the "woofer" to hide the screws and gasket and make this weak point look a little better. I have always been concerned with the appearance here and it is something that I'm going to look to correcting in the future - somthing that just presses into the groove and finishes off the look. A cheap part to make, but expensive to tool.
Some plastic ring like this might work:
http://tw.myblog.yahoo.com/colin-5687/photo?pid=3263&prev=3262&next=3264
(the one on the left)
http://tw.myblog.yahoo.com/colin-5687/photo?pid=3263&prev=3262&next=3264
(the one on the left)
As I said, its not at all hard to conceive and design, but the tool would be expensive and the likelyhood of there existing a part that exactly fits the situation is just about zero. It could be cast in poly, and a flexible poly would fit the bill for a press fit, but its a complex tool. It could be injection molded, it could be ... Well you get the picture.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Is it painted at all or is this an optical illusion?
markus76 said:
Its wax. The flash caught it, I hardly noticed until I saw the photo. It can be cleaned up, best would be to paint the gap black. As I said, this gap is the weak spot in the whole appearance.
I was sure that you would catch it. I had a bet with myself - I won.
mikey_audiogeek said:
I've looked into commonly available seals and none is exactly the right size and fit. The part, to look right has to be molded to fit very closely to the dimensions as they exist.
Earl
If the recess is such an issue, why make it so deep?
Surely a shallower recess would be a better look keeping the driver flush with the baffle, or to completely cover the woofer surround, what about rear mounting?
Nick.
(Still saving, and considering prebuilt, dammnit, thats even more money)
If the recess is such an issue, why make it so deep?
Surely a shallower recess would be a better look keeping the driver flush with the baffle, or to completely cover the woofer surround, what about rear mounting?
Nick.
(Still saving, and considering prebuilt, dammnit, thats even more money)
The woofer should be flush mounted. But the rim of the woofer is about 5/8" and the boards for the baffle come in 1/2" or 3/4". With the rim just above the baffle there is no chance for a well fit rim. On the other hand the 3/4" thickness gives a nice depth for the eventual fit of this rim. Once this decision is made, it is fixed in stone, or should I say tooling, because the tools are fit to the baffle thickness. Can't change the baffle unless I change the tools and thats expensive.
Earl,
Thanks for the clarification, sorry for the silly suggestions (which I have stupidly only just thought you've probably already considered and rejected)
Tooling is a real pig i agree with you. If people factored all the new tools into every DIY project it would soon make people realise buying prebuilt is probably cheaper.
Nick.
Thanks for the clarification, sorry for the silly suggestions (which I have stupidly only just thought you've probably already considered and rejected)
Tooling is a real pig i agree with you. If people factored all the new tools into every DIY project it would soon make people realise buying prebuilt is probably cheaper.
Nick.
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