Ok me and my dad are ready to start putting together the crossovers we just had one question. The components are very close together on the bread boards we found so we were wondering if any if them are going to interfere with each other? For example the coils. Heres a picture with them laid out on top of the board.
Good idea so if they are not big enough that's what we will do. Me and my dad don't have off at the same time so it's hard to get together with him and work on it I really hope we can work on it soon.
As others had mentioned, try to get your coils further apart so they don't wind up effecting each-others value. Rather that pile all the coils in the middle, try to somehow get them towards the outside corners or along the outside edge of the "board." You might also consider making 3 separate small boards, in order to isolate the 3 x-over segments, reducing complexity as you build since they will be physically separate not just logically separate.
I think my dad is able to move the coils to the edges and not have a problem he still hasn't gotten around to wiring them up although we did take the back and front panels off one to see what were dealing with and we definately have to change the fill. They have old orange fiberglass inside so he picked up some poly fill from walmart. We were not able to find PVC over 6" and the speakers are 6.5" but my dad found paint buckets that look like they will work as mid range enclosures. He wants to put the port on the top front, we don't have that much 4" pvc pipe left so we are thinking of just doing one shorter 4" port per box I told him with them being large boxes and having 2 10's that we might need to do 2 but what do you guys think? I am hoping 1 4" port will be enough tho.
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Tupperware belongs in the kitchen. Use something stiffer for the mid-range box.
4" can work for the port but I would call it too small. A Pair of 4" would be much better. 10-15" length per port. (that's the ~26 - 22hz tuning range). A single could have audible port noise in the sub-35hz range when listening loud.
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I see you have the drivers arranged on the baffle, I assume the tupperware is the intended location of the mid, and the tweeter appears to be placed up high on the baffle... Keep in mind that since these are relatively low floor standing speakers. by putting the tweeter on top you are moving the point of origin for sounds from the tweeter several inches closer to the listener. You will get a slight null in output around the x-over by doing this as signals from the mid and tweeter around the x-over point will reach the listener partially out of phase. The original simulation that the x-over I came up with is designed around, is based on the idea that you'd mount that woofer above the tweeter, so as to get better phase alignment between the drivers for most typical listening positions in the room. You certainly don't have to do this. If the aesthetics of having the tweeter on top are more important then, oh well
Think of it this way... If you draw a line from the center of the voice coil of the tweeter, through the center of the mid-range coil, then a perpendicular line extending from the mid-point of the first line drawn, extending out into the room, the tweeter on top arrangement will plunge that line right into the floor a few feet out in front of the speakers, whereas, a tweeter on bottom arrangement will draw that line up through the more normal listening positions in the room. Generally speaking, you want tweeter on top when the tweeter is above the listening position, and tweeter on bottom when it is below the listening position. Unless it's a horn or something with a very deep point of origination compared to the baffle.
4" can work for the port but I would call it too small. A Pair of 4" would be much better. 10-15" length per port. (that's the ~26 - 22hz tuning range). A single could have audible port noise in the sub-35hz range when listening loud.
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I see you have the drivers arranged on the baffle, I assume the tupperware is the intended location of the mid, and the tweeter appears to be placed up high on the baffle... Keep in mind that since these are relatively low floor standing speakers. by putting the tweeter on top you are moving the point of origin for sounds from the tweeter several inches closer to the listener. You will get a slight null in output around the x-over by doing this as signals from the mid and tweeter around the x-over point will reach the listener partially out of phase. The original simulation that the x-over I came up with is designed around, is based on the idea that you'd mount that woofer above the tweeter, so as to get better phase alignment between the drivers for most typical listening positions in the room. You certainly don't have to do this. If the aesthetics of having the tweeter on top are more important then, oh well
Think of it this way... If you draw a line from the center of the voice coil of the tweeter, through the center of the mid-range coil, then a perpendicular line extending from the mid-point of the first line drawn, extending out into the room, the tweeter on top arrangement will plunge that line right into the floor a few feet out in front of the speakers, whereas, a tweeter on bottom arrangement will draw that line up through the more normal listening positions in the room. Generally speaking, you want tweeter on top when the tweeter is above the listening position, and tweeter on bottom when it is below the listening position. Unless it's a horn or something with a very deep point of origination compared to the baffle.
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The PVC cap will be faster, easier and probably sound better being roundish.
We don't have uber wood saws and all that gluing a pvc cap will take 2 secs and be much easier than heavily modifying the box. If I had the ability to do something like that I would but I don't lol.
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