Molex connectors
For newbies like myself, just finding the right connector within the Molex universe requires persistence. (I'm not complaining, but I see why those builders in a hurry might drop this step). Mouser lists several hundred 2.5 pitch connectors under "Molex LS." The BOM wasn't more specific. I tried several searches before finding a product that might be appropriate (Molex series 5045 ? Mouser: 538-22-04-1021 and 538-22-04-1041). Please comment -- good choice or no?
Mouser doesn't stock the crimping tool, and sets a minimum order of 4 -- thus to get the crimper, Mouser (538-63825-5000) Molex (63825-5000) --Mouser would charge $415. Ouch!
Perhaps it's not too late for someone who has the tools to offer crimping service !
For newbies like myself, just finding the right connector within the Molex universe requires persistence. (I'm not complaining, but I see why those builders in a hurry might drop this step). Mouser lists several hundred 2.5 pitch connectors under "Molex LS." The BOM wasn't more specific. I tried several searches before finding a product that might be appropriate (Molex series 5045 ? Mouser: 538-22-04-1021 and 538-22-04-1041). Please comment -- good choice or no?
Mouser doesn't stock the crimping tool, and sets a minimum order of 4 -- thus to get the crimper, Mouser (538-63825-5000) Molex (63825-5000) --Mouser would charge $415. Ouch!
Perhaps it's not too late for someone who has the tools to offer crimping service !
After having to borrow the crimping tool (and I don't like borrowing stuff) I luckily found the original Molex tool. Since they're good connectors and some of you suggested to toss the MKDSN for SPDIF/L+R we used Molex KK instead of the bulky but more easy to use MKDSN...
And no I don't have time for crimping 400+ cables
BTW soldering Molex KK is not advised as they are meant for crimping. I guess soldering straight to the PCB is a better option then.Good, it needs some time to reach the optimal level.
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Hi Jean Paul,
I've started my build and I'll be including both coaxial and optical inputs. I'm going to use a toslink module from Twisted Pear, it requires anywhere from 5 to 12 vdc and pulls about 35 mA. I'm using the PSU that you designed as part of the group buy. I was thinking of pulling a 5 vdc source from the DAC PSU to power the toslink module. Do you think that this will be all right, or do you think that I should power the toslink from it's own PSU.
Thanks,
PJN
I've started my build and I'll be including both coaxial and optical inputs. I'm going to use a toslink module from Twisted Pear, it requires anywhere from 5 to 12 vdc and pulls about 35 mA. I'm using the PSU that you designed as part of the group buy. I was thinking of pulling a 5 vdc source from the DAC PSU to power the toslink module. Do you think that this will be all right, or do you think that I should power the toslink from it's own PSU.
Thanks,
PJN
If you buy it you can crimp 400 cables and sell them for 1 $ + shipping to us and you have the tool for free and enough money to buy bandaids for your sore hands
I am such a tool *****. I may get. Also building a Preamp with AMB LCDuino that specs those connectors.
Well, here it starts, with the PSU:s. I'm building two DACs with 2 PSUs. The first one is fully populated:
The second one is lacking the fuse, the transformer and the semiconductors as I need only one PSU to test the DAC:s and for the second one I have plans that would need more power than the on board transformer could give, so I need to upgrade the fuse as well and fit the transistor on a heat sink. And I left the soldering of the LED wires to this later point as well.
Couple of notes for the PCB designer:
The second one is lacking the fuse, the transformer and the semiconductors as I need only one PSU to test the DAC:s and for the second one I have plans that would need more power than the on board transformer could give, so I need to upgrade the fuse as well and fit the transistor on a heat sink. And I left the soldering of the LED wires to this later point as well.
Couple of notes for the PCB designer:
- Pretty big holes for the plastic caps here
- The wire terminals could use some more clearance around their foot print. There's almost no clearance at all between X2 and C9 and as I used a jumper wire for the transformer I couldn't get X1:s straight.
Note to the complainer: you don't use Phoenix MKDSN, that's why. It's a user error as often. Never had a problem mounting MKDSN and I made a few PSU's. Regarding pads for the caps. Personal thing, better a tad too large than too small certainly when a design gets tested and caps are tried out A large pad solders a bit better IMO but you are welcome to change the design if you like.
A large pad solders a bit better IMO but you are welcome to change the design if you like.
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Hi Guys
Just finished filling my board and testing the volts all is well except L5 zero volts checking back to u5 I have volts going in but nothing out ,gone over with iron and checked with meter but still nothing ,is it dead ? .
And thanks again for this GB huge amount of work Thank you regards john
Just finished filling my board and testing the volts all is well except L5 zero volts checking back to u5 I have volts going in but nothing out ,gone over with iron and checked with meter but still nothing ,is it dead ? .
And thanks again for this GB huge amount of work Thank you regards john
Hi Guys
Just finished filling my board and testing the volts all is well except L5 zero volts checking back to u5 I have volts going in but nothing out ,gone over with iron and checked with meter but still nothing ,is it dead ? .
And thanks again for this GB huge amount of work Thank you regards john
Did you check voltages at pads before installing L3, L4, L5, L6? If you did and you are getting 0 V at L5 it is likely U5.
Probably not a problem but you may have installed the LED backwards. Can you measure the voltage across the LED? When operating normally the voltage should be around 1.7v. If it's in backwards then it won't conduct and you'll see the full 5v across the LED and no light. If that's the case you just need to unsolder it and install it the right way.
---Gary
Just have finished mine!
many thanks to JP for such nice project! It was a pleasure to build unlike Red Baron, for instance, which became a non working nightmare for me
I'll give some time for burn in and later compare it to Benchmark and other diy Wolfson DAC.
What is that device at the input?
Looks like a TOSLINK to SPDIF converter. Take a look here: http://www.sellarz.co.kr/shopping/shopping-detail.php?pi=1518
---Gary
