Amp Camp Amp - ACA

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J

jrebman

Member
Joined 2007
Hi Jim and Mario,

Thanks for the input, so yes, I'll try it as-is to start.

Mario, do you know if that quicki was built stock, with plate chokes, or with the PJCCS? the PJCCS brings the Zout to 4k and stock is 2k.

I've always had a feeling that this would make for a super sweet, low cost system, so I just have to try it for myself.

-- Jim
 
R

Rixsta

Member
Joined 2004
Rixsta.co.uk
Here Is my almost completed amp camp amp :)
I used some old heatsinks I had, Ive tried it from a 19v laptop charger, sounds good.

R1065870.jpg

Now trying it from a car battery stepped up to 24v using another car amps power supply. sounds good but something missing.

R1065856.jpg

Next im going to try 12v from the battery direct, but I doubt ill get enough Bias.

Interesting though and does sound good :)

R1065854.jpg

Cheers
Riki
 
A

all212

Member
Joined 2012
toobhed said:
Jim,

We had the B'head quicky hooked up to the ACA in the Deforest room at the BAfest last Sunday. The combo worked well and couldn't hear any strain or thinness that might have been associated with a pre-out/amp-in impedance mismatch.

I think the two together will work well for your purposes. The only issue (or non-issue as the case may be) is that the quicky either has a lot of gain or could use a higher impedance attenuator to better dail-in volume; it played loudly with quicky's volume dail about an eighth around.

Mario
Click to expand...

I'm running that combo - I can get volume to 10am with the DQ-10's (I know...I know...) and to 11am with some AV123 bookshelf speakers. I'll guess that the speakers are affecting your volume if all else is working. What speakers were you running??
 
J

jrebman

Member
Joined 2007
Hi Mario,

I didd find out that the Quickie you had was Cary Chin's and he did indeed build it with the PJCCS, which does raise the output impedance to 4k, so basically the worst case condition for the ACA amps, and obviously it's not a problem at all.

Thanks much for the report -- maybe one of these years I'll make it out to BA -- sounds like a lot of fun.

-- Jim
 
sachu888

sachu888

Member
Joined 2010
Test fit on heatsink:
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PCB wire connectors
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I will use heatshrink or Teflon tubing on 2nd Panasonic .47r resister as it seems to be little close to wire connector.This board is a single sided,so Mosfets needs to be soldered first before mounting.

Regards,
Sachin
 
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N

nraghunadh

Member
Joined 2009
Many thanks to all,
Finished except power switch.
Sounding very impressive, unbelievable ( really i never expect this much quality from this small amp), very nice punchy and clean and perfect bass. By default bias voltage is 9.6v for each channel and increased to 10v. I am using Dell 19.5v /3.6A(60W) DC laptop charger. I have paired with my AR 2ax speakers, AMP driving perfectly those speakers. But i want to test with high efficiency (>90db)speakers. When i connected my mobile source i feel low gain, Connected through B1 buffer with SSP, gain also good along with SSP.
Many thanks to Nelson, Rudy and Sachin to get finished this perfect Cute AMP.
I am planning to go each amp as mono-blocks by bridging mode. I ran this amp more than 3 hrs using my home UPS with out any issues. I am posting some more pics.

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Thank you
Raghu
 
A

all212

Member
Joined 2012
So....what do you do with a couple of amp camp boards that aren't in a chassis...hmmm...how about powered speakers?

This is just a "mock-up". Amp camp board mounts under the heatsink. Change out the speaker inputs for RCA's and drill a small hole to mount the power connector into.

Hmmm.....

Click the image to get the correct perspective.
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dodog

dodog

Member
Joined 2013
I'm thinking of using an angel-eye switch for the power since it has a built-in LED. If I do that, what do I do to on the PCB where the LED would go? Do I:

1) Leave it open.
2) Use a jumper in lieu of the LED.
3) Use a resistor (if so, what value?).
4) Use an LED but not worry about actually connecting it to the front panel.
 
M

mboxler

Member
Joined 2011
dodog said:
I'm thinking of using an angel-eye switch for the power since it has a built-in LED. If I do that, what do I do to on the PCB where the LED would go? Do I:

1) Leave it open.
2) Use a jumper in lieu of the LED.
3) Use a resistor (if so, what value?).
4) Use an LED but not worry about actually connecting it to the front panel.
Click to expand...

According to the build guide...

"...the LED is not required for the circuit and you may leave it out if you choose."

Mike
 
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