Amp Camp Amp - ACA

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Toobsox

Member
Joined 2016
Zen Mod, Just wanted to thank you for your resources and time. Still have not tracked the problem down, but my soldering is getting better...

I reheated all joint to get better flow to see if that would fix the issue. Nada

I removed all excess solder with a wick - pretty much bare - and resoldered. Nada

Smashed my multimeter when it fell of the bench.

New MM is coming tomorrow.

I am wondering if maybe its a damaged component? I get audio, about half volume and very distorted. I am tempted to reorder parts and rebuild from scratch...
.
Thanks again
 
Variac

Variac

diyAudio Editor
Joined 2001
BurningAmp.org
Paid Member
Since I developed the UMS I am pretty familiar with it. In the past the ACA has been a (very small) subset of the UMS. I believe that using the previous PCBs for the ACA you could put 2 ACAs per heatsink of the 4U chassis, ie 4 total in the chassis, which the heatsinks could easily handle.

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1006/5046/files/universal-mounting-specification-v2.1.pdf

Unfortunately the new chassis we're using for the ACA didn't have clearance for the boards that used the old UMS so new holes had to be added creating a yet more complicated UMS. However I don't think the 4U Deluxe chassis will ever have the extra holes for the new PCBs, the new holes will only be available in the 2U and 3U chassis. There are ACA PCB's available in the store and they are the old design, so I suggest that you grab 2 pairs as they will be the old ones which will work in the 4U chassis

Amp Camp Amp PCB – diyAudio Store

The circuit won't be different so it the old PCBs will be fine. We are adding some interesting new wiring options with the new ACA, but these also will work with the old boards. These wiring options would make it very interesting to have 2 ACAs per heatsink, ie 4 total..



6L6 said:
No. The Universal Mounting System is not made for the ACA, as the ACA has always had it's own chassis.

The ACA chassis smaller as the thermal requirements are much, much smaller. A 4U 300mm would be appropriate for the most of the other Pass/Firstwatt designs.

The new version of the ACA (mainly a different PCB layout to fit a new chassis design) is being worked on now and will be available in the store hopefully by the end of March.
Click to expand...
 
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oreo382

Member
Joined 2013
Toobsox said:
Thanks again, Ill keep you posted.
Click to expand...

There is no need to suck all the solder out.What you need is flux (do you have any?). If not get some.Then you need to flux those solder joints and reheat them with a properly heated and tinned iron. Add a little more solder as needed for joints with too little.You do not need to add solder to the joints with enough but you need enough heat and FLUX. Also 63/37 ratio solder is the best of the blends.
 
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baeijsman

Member
Joined 2015
Paid Member
Preparing...

I am currently in the proces of shopping parts to build this little wonder.
I might want to do a little experimenting though, and I seem to remember Mighty Z saying something about going nuts and lowering the value of the power resistors, and perhaps pop in a pair of IRFP150's, but having spent the last weeks searching everything there is to read, I have now reached the point where I am unable to find anything at all, and I fear I may actually confuse this with a different build!? :confused:
Also, I have decided to go 24V, and I think I read somewhere it was necessary to change R12 to 39K when doing that. Is this correct?

Thank you very much.
 
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