Got it...now I remember...this is definitely the way if you want to make place for alternate components...I went ahead with the 5K trimpot and offset DC to around 0.2mV, worked pretty well..
It's still one channel, but I like the sound...its as astonishing as F6, slightly different signature, but unfortunately this time I don't have great speakers to test...and quite inefficient ones (82 dB) as they claim...doesn't go louder compared to how I experienced with Klipsch, but still decent music to hear...
Because we have access to J74, (something that was in doubt when the PCB were laid out years ago...) that is the best course - leave the LTP pot open (R8 pot) and just use a 1K resistor in R8 and move on.
With R8 being 500R, it isn't possible to adjust it to 1K0. I don't really want to remove VR8 and replace it with R8, risking PCB damage.
Last edited:
Removing three pin variable resistors is actually fairly straightforward. The pins can be bridged with a large blob of solder while the part is pulled out of the board with a pair of pliers from the other side. The excess solder is removed afterwards with solder wick.
Minor damage to the holes isn’t much of a problem. The holes for the fixed R8 location bridge across the variable footprint.
Minor damage to the holes isn’t much of a problem. The holes for the fixed R8 location bridge across the variable footprint.
The BOM on the DIY store page shows R8 as a 500R variable pot ??
I will attempt to remove it.
If you have a 9.1V zener at D1, then leave the 1k resistor in place at R8 and replace R6 with a jumper. Or simply jumper across R6 on the underside of the board if you would rather not remove it. I like to use a 200 Ohm resistor at R30 for easy measurement of the total current through the diff pair.