Aikido 9 pin All in One Build

[tinitus]

..... but I can't figure out R17 ........ can't find a reference to them in the manual.

in the tube list, at the very end of manual

 

[tinitus]

in the tube list, at the very end of manual

ups, mine is the mono solo board, obviously with different numbers
in my kit R17 is not related to heaters, but adjust the PSRR 'system'

but I thought at least the numbers in the large tube list would be the same through all versions

is Broskie not too smart, or being exactly that
at least its definately very confusing

 

[tinitus]

ups, and wrong again

that resistor is only related to headamp use
with line amp setup its just a jumper

sorry guys

 

[mattmcl]

On my kit R17 is used for both headamp and line. In center tapped configuration it is between C8 and C7.

Thanks guys, I think I'm understanding this now. This is definitely not explained well in the manual.

 

[tinitus]

this elevated heater thing I think is explained ok in my manual, or at least how to do it
I just dont understand how you can ad like 50V from B+ to CT of the 6.3V(or 12.6) heater trafo, and still have 6.3V

 

[pieter t]

I just dont understand how you can ad like 50V from B+ to CT of the 6.3V(or 12.6) heater trafo, and still have 6.3V

Because the 6.3 volts is floating.
You can't do it when the heater voltage is referenced to earth.

 

[mattmcl]

Having some trouble determining polarity on the Nichicon 150uf 400V caps. One lead has a criscross pattern on it, the other doesn't. No other markings. These are C5.

 

[cjkpkg]

One lead is always longer on these style caps, double check one that is clearly marked but I believe that the +(pos) lead is always the longer one.

 

[SY]

The Nichicons I have are marked on the insulating sleeve. Can you post a photo? This is one you do NOT want to get wrong!

 

[cjkpkg]

Also, make sure the voltage and value uF are correct...even if the bag is labeled correctly I have had a couple where JB must have been tired or had a few, luckily the last one I did not catch was just one of the heater caps, it was a 47uF 450V instead of the 10,000uF one. Since they were both the same size and type (the black Nichicons) I missed it as well and didnt catch it until the amp was complete and couldnt figure out why my heater voltage was all messed up.

 

[mattmcl]

These don't have wire leads, more like prongs. I'll post a pic tonight. SY, yeah, that's why I posted, these are the big guns.

 

[cjkpkg]

I think on the bottom where the prongs attach one of the pads might have a pattern stamped noting negative or positive...again...I would have to look at one at home

 

[mattmcl]

Yes, one of the leads has a cross-hatch pattern stamped on it, which I could assume to be positive- but I didn't want to take chances with these in particular.

 

[cjkpkg]

Yes, one of the leads has a cross-hatch pattern stamped on it, which I could assume to be positive- but I didn't want to take chances with these in particular.

NO....that is the negative....I just checked one I had from a JB kit.

 

[mattmcl]

Glad I asked! That's pretty counter-intuitive... Thanks!

 

[tinitus]

well, the negative is usually the most clearly marked, for some reason

 

[SY]

Post a pic anyway, just to be sure. Usually, there's a row of - symbols running down the side of the cap indicating the - terminal. I'll be very surprised if this is an exception.

 

[cjkpkg]

Pic attached...hash mark terminal aligned with printed sleeve for neg terminal.

 

[evanc]

you got it... the negative is marked

 

[mattmcl]

Perfect, that's how they're in. Just about done with the soldering, but I need to carve out a couple hours and go through the variables and manual again. Might not make any progress until the weekend.

Thanks everyone.