This is the thread for matching transistors:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=100864
Regs
Fotios
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=100864
Regs
Fotios
Re: Re: Re: Hi fotios!
Hi Fotios...
Im in the process of designing and wanting to build a similar amp based on MJ21193/94 TO3 package, my question however is if the MJL3281A/1302A will be a drop in instead of the MJ21193/94's.
See my thread and let me know what you think, since it would be easier to mount a TO264 than a TO3...
Thanks
fotios said:
Hi Fotios...
Im in the process of designing and wanting to build a similar amp based on MJ21193/94 TO3 package, my question however is if the MJL3281A/1302A will be a drop in instead of the MJ21193/94's.
See my thread and let me know what you think, since it would be easier to mount a TO264 than a TO3...
Thanks
Re: Re: Re: Re: Hi fotios!
Hi Adrculda
Generally, TO-3 devices are most rugged from TO264 due to their metal case. But... although MJ2119x are the TO-3 version of MJL2119x, if you look at OnSemi datasheet it is reffered: SOA 2,25A @ 80V guaranted FOR 1 SEC! The same for MJL3281/1302: 1A @ 100V for 1 sec again. Instead for MJ1502x there is no time limit in their SOA: 2A @ 80V. Also MJ2119x have almost the same performance with MJ1502x except of the characterized distortion value given for MJ2119x. MJL3281/1302, differs in the greater bandwidth of 30MHz compared to 4MHz of the others. Thus these are a must for drivers.
Looking in your thread, i think it becomes a real playground
.
You must decide what you want first. Why do you need a class A amp of so big power? If you want a big power amp, it is most prefferable a forced AB class amp with increased iddle current of 50mA per output device (Iq value for the usuall class AB it is 25mA per device). If you want an amp with very low distortion, then you must going in class A with less power. What type of speakers are you disposed to use with this amp?
You must think and count carefully your demands first, and after this the rest.
As for your question, it is more practical the use for drivers the MJL3281/1302 and for output MJL2119x because they are of the same case.
Regs
Fotios
Adrculda said:
Hi Adrculda
Generally, TO-3 devices are most rugged from TO264 due to their metal case. But... although MJ2119x are the TO-3 version of MJL2119x, if you look at OnSemi datasheet it is reffered: SOA 2,25A @ 80V guaranted FOR 1 SEC! The same for MJL3281/1302: 1A @ 100V for 1 sec again. Instead for MJ1502x there is no time limit in their SOA: 2A @ 80V. Also MJ2119x have almost the same performance with MJ1502x except of the characterized distortion value given for MJ2119x. MJL3281/1302, differs in the greater bandwidth of 30MHz compared to 4MHz of the others. Thus these are a must for drivers.
Looking in your thread, i think it becomes a real playground
.You must decide what you want first. Why do you need a class A amp of so big power? If you want a big power amp, it is most prefferable a forced AB class amp with increased iddle current of 50mA per output device (Iq value for the usuall class AB it is 25mA per device). If you want an amp with very low distortion, then you must going in class A with less power. What type of speakers are you disposed to use with this amp?
You must think and count carefully your demands first, and after this the rest.
As for your question, it is more practical the use for drivers the MJL3281/1302 and for output MJL2119x because they are of the same case.
Regs
Fotios
my home speakers are also my "work" speakers
4 pairs to be exact...
Here they are...
also got 4 dual 18" folded horns that just finished building, but only got 4 drivers on hand right now, but was dues to the fact that i just recently get the Cervin's and the boxes were already being built, which wasn't a problem since the carpenter owed me $$$ so the horns were free, also the other 2 cabinets that aren't loaded are pretty much spoken for
Anyways like you said... now there's lots of input from several members and this might lead to a very contraversial amp build !!
4 pairs to be exact...
Here they are...
also got 4 dual 18" folded horns that just finished building, but only got 4 drivers on hand right now, but was dues to the fact that i just recently get the Cervin's and the boxes were already being built, which wasn't a problem since the carpenter owed me $$$ so the horns were free, also the other 2 cabinets that aren't loaded are pretty much spoken for
Anyways like you said... now there's lots of input from several members and this might lead to a very contraversial amp build !!
dirty harry
hi fotios
greetings amplifier has no heating of transistors q1 q2
1k ohm resistor not getting hot everything seems ok .Supply still in series
series bulb 100 watts does not glow indicating low bias still to set
bias is it done without load speaker and input shorted
1 what is the input sensivity for full output
will measure all voltage and tell you bye
thanking you
andrew lebon
hi fotios
greetings amplifier has no heating of transistors q1 q2
1k ohm resistor not getting hot everything seems ok .Supply still in series
series bulb 100 watts does not glow indicating low bias still to set
bias is it done without load speaker and input shorted
1 what is the input sensivity for full output
will measure all voltage and tell you bye
thanking you
andrew lebon
Re: dirty harry
If you have used the same values for R14=18KÙ and R13=437Ù (which can obtained by connecting in series one 390Ù and one 47Ù resistor thus 390+47=437Ù) then:
The voltage gain is: Av = R14 / R13 = 18KÙ / 437Ù = 41,18.
From your previous report that you use a 50 - 0 - 50 AC supply, then the maximum DC voltage per rail will be: 50 X 1,41 = 70,5Vdc. From this level must be subtracted about 3Vdc loss from bridge rectifier and from the ripple remains in rails, thus you must have a clear level per supply of 68,5Vdc. This translated in a maximum voltage swing in output of 68,5 / 1,41 = 48,58Vrms.
Dividing the max rms voltage in out by the Av we have: 48,58 / 41,18 = 1,18Vrms which is the input sensitivity of your amplifier. Input sensitivity called: how much voltage level must be applied in input to obtained the maximum voltage level in output. In your case is 1,18Vrms or 1,43dBV.
I wish you success.
Fotios
andrewlebon said:
If you have used the same values for R14=18KÙ and R13=437Ù (which can obtained by connecting in series one 390Ù and one 47Ù resistor thus 390+47=437Ù) then:
The voltage gain is: Av = R14 / R13 = 18KÙ / 437Ù = 41,18.
From your previous report that you use a 50 - 0 - 50 AC supply, then the maximum DC voltage per rail will be: 50 X 1,41 = 70,5Vdc. From this level must be subtracted about 3Vdc loss from bridge rectifier and from the ripple remains in rails, thus you must have a clear level per supply of 68,5Vdc. This translated in a maximum voltage swing in output of 68,5 / 1,41 = 48,58Vrms.
Dividing the max rms voltage in out by the Av we have: 48,58 / 41,18 = 1,18Vrms which is the input sensitivity of your amplifier. Input sensitivity called: how much voltage level must be applied in input to obtained the maximum voltage level in output. In your case is 1,18Vrms or 1,43dBV.
I wish you success.
Fotios
thanks friend
I wonder, you still have that website, with them images
of your big Harry amplifier?
EDIT:---
yes, looks like it
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Websource: http://www.eal.gr/
This is what think a Hi-Fi version of Dirty Harry.
I must say it looks Quality !!
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The Hi - Fi version of the same circuit used in Dirty Harry.
This amplifier produces 170 Wrms at 8 Ohms
with a supply of +/- 60 Vdc individual for each channel.
Websource: http://www.eal.gr/english_language1.htm
..Thanks for the reply fotios ...
so i think this amp the driver to the output is TDD similar to Lynx Power Amp By Jan Dupont so I try to Assembled your Power Amp to drive my 2 18 inc. EB or Subzero Subwoofer But The PCB is so big...
fotios How to make the PCB using your Hand made? ehehehe
i see the PCB in your website it seem not the hand made but the quality.... sorry for my bad english....
Thanks....
so i think this amp the driver to the output is TDD similar to Lynx Power Amp By Jan Dupont so I try to Assembled your Power Amp to drive my 2 18 inc. EB or Subzero Subwoofer But The PCB is so big...
fotios How to make the PCB using your Hand made? ehehehe
i see the PCB in your website it seem not the hand made but the quality.... sorry for my bad english....
Thanks....
yes, EMX_125
I was thinking asking same thing .. really nice PCB, fotios
I am quite sure I know fotios makes them himself
.. and he has put some money into equipment to be able to make such PCB
fotios
.. he is not rich .. but he is clever with what he has got
but maybe is a reason he has not many money still left
Glad, (not sorry!), for my broken english (I am from Sweden, speak Swedish!)
.. because my broken english is better than no english
.. and much much better than an australian trying to write swedish
** this website www.diyaudio.com is Made in Australia
I was thinking asking same thing .. really nice PCB, fotios
I am quite sure I know fotios makes them himself
.. and he has put some money into equipment to be able to make such PCB
fotios
.. he is not rich .. but he is clever with what he has got
but maybe is a reason he has not many money still left
Glad, (not sorry!), for my broken english (I am from Sweden, speak Swedish!)
.. because my broken english is better than no english
.. and much much better than an australian trying to write swedish
** this website www.diyaudio.com is Made in Australia
Hello to EMX_125 and to my dear friend Lineup. Lineup i am so GLAD as you are GLAD and you
The big pcb of Dirty Harry, it was ordered from a pcb lab as well 100 other pieces. From those, there are left over only 10 pieces included the assembled which you see in the picture.
The rest pcbs of my other projects, are home made. I make any pcb up to 190 X 270mm in my home, because this is the bigger plot area of my Epson Inkjet. I use Epson transparencies for making the films for UV exposure. I use ready double side presensetized pcbs, a UV exposure kit invented by me, NaOH for developing the pcb, and a mix of Hcl acid with perydrol for etching.
The difficult and time -consuming work it is the smart drawing of pcbs at PC. The construction and the drilling of pcb it takes one day as much.
English is not my maternal language, i am self-taught like Lineup, but Lineup has big talent in learning languages, so it is far better from me (as well in mosfet knoweledge and applications) in this.
I have to mention as well, that Lynx amplifier it is a very good project and above all that its designer and good friend JAN DUPPONT it is a very polite and GOOD MAN.
I have allways in my mind an upgrade of Dirty Harry (drawing new pcbs with the option of using MJL TO-264 package output transistors) to suit in the demands of the most diy-ers but this is a big decision because it needs 2-3 months of home work to implemented. I have to redraw as well my other amplifier, the hi-fi version Charisma because it has a small fail (elctromagnetic noise infection from the transformer) due to orientation of pcbs. But really i am tired for 3 months.
There is as well the lack of money (i need to spend arround 160 euro for new parts) as reffered by Lineup.
I will try to complette these projects.
Fotios
The big pcb of Dirty Harry, it was ordered from a pcb lab as well 100 other pieces. From those, there are left over only 10 pieces included the assembled which you see in the picture.
The rest pcbs of my other projects, are home made. I make any pcb up to 190 X 270mm in my home, because this is the bigger plot area of my Epson Inkjet. I use Epson transparencies for making the films for UV exposure. I use ready double side presensetized pcbs, a UV exposure kit invented by me, NaOH for developing the pcb, and a mix of Hcl acid with perydrol for etching.
The difficult and time -consuming work it is the smart drawing of pcbs at PC. The construction and the drilling of pcb it takes one day as much.
English is not my maternal language, i am self-taught like Lineup, but Lineup has big talent in learning languages, so it is far better from me (as well in mosfet knoweledge and applications) in this.
I have to mention as well, that Lynx amplifier it is a very good project and above all that its designer and good friend JAN DUPPONT it is a very polite and GOOD MAN.
I have allways in my mind an upgrade of Dirty Harry (drawing new pcbs with the option of using MJL TO-264 package output transistors) to suit in the demands of the most diy-ers but this is a big decision because it needs 2-3 months of home work to implemented. I have to redraw as well my other amplifier, the hi-fi version Charisma because it has a small fail (elctromagnetic noise infection from the transformer) due to orientation of pcbs. But really i am tired for 3 months.
There is as well the lack of money (i need to spend arround 160 euro for new parts) as reffered by Lineup.
I will try to complette these projects.
Fotios
nix said:hi fotios
i have some question or clarification what this CON 1 stand for? is it IC or PIN connector? Hope you can explain coz i confuse with it.
Thank you.
regards
nix
I don't know for what connector are you asking... because no one connector is marked on the schematic.
Any way... the connector marked as "input" it is for connecting the main amplifier module with the input module which is a seperate circuit offering balanced and single inputs and volume control.
The 6 pin connector at the left side of schematic, it is for transfering informations about the operational state of amplifier, each moment, to another one circuit which is an analog error computer. This circuit manages the speed of cooling fans, the protection of speakers from amplifier malfunction, the protection of amplifier from heavy shorts in its output, thermal protection and some other things.
You ask in your last post about the stability under different loads. This amplifier has designed with the stability issue (under any load condition) in my mind first of all.
Its circutry is very "tight". A complete amplifier, collaborated with the perifferal protection circuits, can be safe and stable with loads down to 0,5Ù, which is the trip point of analog computer to deactivate the output relays.
The input circuit and the protection computer circuit which does not presented in the schematic, it is a different story. I have spent enough time and money in designing and i preffer to keep those for my self. In the current drawing, you can omit the temp sensor. The input 2pole connector, must be connected in a 50KÙ potentiometer. If you don't wish an input level control, then you must solder a 50KÙ resistor accross the input pins.
Regs
Fotios
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