bfourcade. Great projector, congratulations!!
What are the dimensions of the lilliput LCD? (with the frame?). (I've read on places that it's 16:9 and other places that it is 15:9). I'm building the enclosure for my pj, and I don't have the lilli yet; so it would be really useful to have this info.
Thanks, and keep up the good work!
Raf.
What are the dimensions of the lilliput LCD? (with the frame?). (I've read on places that it's 16:9 and other places that it is 15:9). I'm building the enclosure for my pj, and I don't have the lilli yet; so it would be really useful to have this info.
Thanks, and keep up the good work!
Raf.
Hi Trev !
I'm using the default values on the Lilliput. RGB levels are set by default at 50%. The same with Brightness and Contrast: 50%
But I get the same effect with composite input (and with my previous panel -Ovation 842-.)
So I'm prety sure it got to be my bulb because is the only thing in common with my old setup. Too much UV ?
Hi raf. Thanks! The Liliput on his frame is aprox 165mm wide x 105mm height. Hope it helps.
Bernardo.
It sure does, thanks!! BTW, I believe (from what I've read everywhere) that the problem you have with your blues must be because of the color temp of the bulb you're using. 6000 is too high. Film projectors use 5600, and I'v seen good results with temp even under 5000. I'd try to get something under 5500.
Raf.
Raf.
I got back a few days ago and then i started my classes for the summer...sorry about that, i'v been up to my eye balls with school work...what part did you need again? also what fl should my condencer lens be for this set up?the one I have i got from diylabs and it does not cover the corners for the lcd...I'v tried a fresnel lens in front but that does not help any...
thanks lesko
pm me
thanks lesko
pm me
Hi Lesko, thanks !
I leave the lliliput TFT on his frame, but removed all the other things, (backlight, reflective sheet, polarizers sheets, difussor plastic, etc) even the inner white plastic frame was removed (you can use the inner white plastic frame to hold the TFT on his place inside the metallic frame but you must to cut down the inners borders on the plastic frame to let the light pass and fill the complete TFT area.
Hi Edwinfriend ! I´m using the same lens that Ace: Fujinon Copy Lens 240mm FL from SurplusShed, but I´m afraid they are sold out. You can use the one from DIYLabs also, but you projector must to be a little bigger due to the longer FL (320mm) also the throw distance must be higher to get the same image size. But the image quality is excellent with the DIYLabs triplet (I think you may get better focusing than I using that lens)
Bernardo.
Hi EdwinFriend !
Bernardo.
I dont know, but if a copier lens is hard to get, just pick the triplet from DIYLabs I'm sure it will work for you if you have 4.5 mts or bigger throw distance.
It's an Asbestos replacement. I've got it from a hardware store. It have many applications for heat and cold issolation.
Bernardo.
can u share for us ur specific distance from light to condenser..condenser to fresnel...and fresnel to lcd... why u did not try to sandwich ur lcd by d fresnel like others do? i have 400w double ended metal halide from diylabs and i want to use it in my liliput...if u could give me some advice it will be appreciated...tnx..
I also believe that the fresnel rings that end up on the screen could be eliminated by moving the fresnel further away from the LCD, Miles. What do you think, Bernardo?
Anyway, Bernardo, I really like your pj, I think it's one of the best I've seen. I'd love it if mine ends up being close to yours
What are the dimensions of your light box? I read on a GE's pdf on their MH lamps, that you're not suppose to have anything closer than 3" from the glass of the lamp, to avoid glass "microfragmentation" (or something) in case the bulb exploded. But, I guess, even if it did, where are all the fragments going, anyway. Most will end up inside the light box anyway.. That stupid pdf had so many disclaimers on the horrors of the lamp exploding, that it left me very afraid. But I'm still going to use a MH, the Ushio 400 btw, with mogul base like yours. That's why it would be helpful if you could tell me what are the dimensions of your light box, as I plan on implementing it based on yours.
Also, like Miles asked, how far away is the lcd from the light box? I'm also concerned about heat, how are your fans doing? Are they variable speed ones? CFM?
Thanks,
Raf.
Anyway, Bernardo, I really like your pj, I think it's one of the best I've seen. I'd love it if mine ends up being close to yours
What are the dimensions of your light box? I read on a GE's pdf on their MH lamps, that you're not suppose to have anything closer than 3" from the glass of the lamp, to avoid glass "microfragmentation" (or something) in case the bulb exploded. But, I guess, even if it did, where are all the fragments going, anyway. Most will end up inside the light box anyway.. That stupid pdf had so many disclaimers on the horrors of the lamp exploding, that it left me very afraid. But I'm still going to use a MH, the Ushio 400 btw, with mogul base like yours. That's why it would be helpful if you could tell me what are the dimensions of your light box, as I plan on implementing it based on yours.
Also, like Miles asked, how far away is the lcd from the light box? I'm also concerned about heat, how are your fans doing? Are they variable speed ones? CFM?
Thanks,
Raf.
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