http://diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=21892&perpage=15&pagenumber=7
here is the post from ACE
here is the post from ACE
Heya beforcade, im sure i dont need to prase your eforts again in here like i did in the email lol, regarding your blues, what colour temp is your light? and have you ajusted the blue channel on the vga? if your lamp is 4200k colour then thats why they are dim, but normally its with green that goes dark not so much blue.
Trev
Trev
Good work Bfourcade,
I have an idea that you may wish to consider for a lens mount.
Here it is:
Take a two pieces of 3/4 inch thick or 1/2 inch thick plastic like delrin or teflon or what ever you can scrounge up as remnents from the local plastic shop.
Then cut two exactly equal pieces of the same size so that they line up to make a mounting plate that is of the size that you want.
Then take an accurate measurement of the surplus shed 240 copier lens on the outside middle diameter of the lens body.
Mine is 3.112 inches or 79.04 mm. Most should be close to this size within a couple of thousands of an inch.
Then get an accurate compass and scribe a circle as close to the size of the measurement that you can with the center on the joint where the two pieces of plastic meet. Then cut out the hole from both halfs a little inside the line.
Then duck tape the ends of the lens shut to seal out anyuthing from getting into the lenses and wrap a thin piece of high grit sandpaper around the lens body and use it ot sand the holes to the accurate size. If you make the holes a little too big take a slight amount of material off from one or both of the plastic pieces where they meet each other. The mounts shoud fit snugly around the lens body with only enough play to let it move with some resistance.
Then drill holes into the pices to mount them in the closed position onto the projector body at the appropriate location.
The fit should be tight enough to keep the lens in place but be able to twist and move it to focus it.
Hezz
I have an idea that you may wish to consider for a lens mount.
Here it is:
Take a two pieces of 3/4 inch thick or 1/2 inch thick plastic like delrin or teflon or what ever you can scrounge up as remnents from the local plastic shop.
Then cut two exactly equal pieces of the same size so that they line up to make a mounting plate that is of the size that you want.
Then take an accurate measurement of the surplus shed 240 copier lens on the outside middle diameter of the lens body.
Mine is 3.112 inches or 79.04 mm. Most should be close to this size within a couple of thousands of an inch.
Then get an accurate compass and scribe a circle as close to the size of the measurement that you can with the center on the joint where the two pieces of plastic meet. Then cut out the hole from both halfs a little inside the line.
Then duck tape the ends of the lens shut to seal out anyuthing from getting into the lenses and wrap a thin piece of high grit sandpaper around the lens body and use it ot sand the holes to the accurate size. If you make the holes a little too big take a slight amount of material off from one or both of the plastic pieces where they meet each other. The mounts shoud fit snugly around the lens body with only enough play to let it move with some resistance.
Then drill holes into the pices to mount them in the closed position onto the projector body at the appropriate location.
The fit should be tight enough to keep the lens in place but be able to twist and move it to focus it.
Hezz
Hi !
Misled Aaron and Hezz: Thanks for your great ideas on the focusing mechanism I´ll be trying those next days. Thanks!
Ace and Michael: The lamp I´m using is a General Electric, Arcstream Series Metal Halide (KRC400T/H960/E39 )
Specs:
Subcategory Arcstream Metal Halide Lamps
Product Code 26685
Description KRC400T/H960/E39
Watts 400
Lumens (Initial) 25000
Lumens (Mean) 17500
Average Life in Hours 10000
Color Temperature (K) 6000
Color Rendering Index (Ra) CRI (> or =) 90
Operating Position Code HOR
Fixture Type - Open/Enclosed E
Bulb Type ED18
Base Type Mog
Max Overall Length (In.) 10.5
Max Overall Length (mm) 267.000
LCL (In.) 6.75
ANSI Ballast Type M135/E
Sales Unit UPC 043168266857
Case UPC 043168266857
Case Quantity 12
Additional Information Clear, Daylight Color
It´s 400w, 6000K and 90CRI so may be the blues changes a little due to the high color temp.
Or maybe is the normal glass sheets used to heat protection on the panel case.
Wich is the optimal color temp for a projector lamp ?
Misled Aaron and Hezz: Thanks for your great ideas on the focusing mechanism I´ll be trying those next days. Thanks!
Ace and Michael: The lamp I´m using is a General Electric, Arcstream Series Metal Halide (KRC400T/H960/E39 )
Specs:
Subcategory Arcstream Metal Halide Lamps
Product Code 26685
Description KRC400T/H960/E39
Watts 400
Lumens (Initial) 25000
Lumens (Mean) 17500
Average Life in Hours 10000
Color Temperature (K) 6000
Color Rendering Index (Ra) CRI (> or =) 90
Operating Position Code HOR
Fixture Type - Open/Enclosed E
Bulb Type ED18
Base Type Mog
Max Overall Length (In.) 10.5
Max Overall Length (mm) 267.000
LCL (In.) 6.75
ANSI Ballast Type M135/E
Sales Unit UPC 043168266857
Case UPC 043168266857
Case Quantity 12
Additional Information Clear, Daylight Color
It´s 400w, 6000K and 90CRI so may be the blues changes a little due to the high color temp.
Or maybe is the normal glass sheets used to heat protection on the panel case.
Wich is the optimal color temp for a projector lamp ?
Hi LaserLine, thanks:
Here are the part sources:
* Lilliput VGA: eBay (the exact URL I´ve used has ended, so just run a search on Lilliput XGA o VGA car Monitor and assure it have VGA input and 800x480 native resolution). Beware of similar Lilliput products with much less resolution and without VGA input.
* Proyection Lens: Fujinon Copy Lens 240mm FL from SurplusShed (www.surplushed.com). But i´m afraid it is sold out.
* Condenser: Normal Plano ConveX (PCX) lens (90mm diam x 100mm FL) from surplusshed. But it get broken by bulb heat. Anyway I´m still using it. May be it was fixed too tighted to the light box without space for a little dilatation (is that word correct ?).
* Fresnel Lenses: From ACE. Excellent quality on the lens and precicely cutted down to the exact size for this panel.
* Bulb: Local Lightning store. They dont have a web site but it seems to be a common product for street lighting or commercial lighting. Smaller bulbs are very dificult to get here. May be in Buenos Aires...
Hope it helps.
Bernardo.
Thanks Ace, I´ll try to get one of this bulbs. It´s very dificult to get it here in my town. So, I´ll look in Buenos Aires for such a bulb (Here we say "God is everywhere but his offices are in Buenos Aires" )
Do you know if my current 400w ballast will works with that bulb ?
And last: Is there any pic of the bulb to have a better idea on it ?
By the way, I´ve taken out the 2 glass pieces on the LCD box and the colors and brightnes get improved a lot. I´m watching for temp and at the moment it works very well.
So, the blues now seems to be much better but still a little greenish on sky images. I´ve seen this effect on some outdoor photograps when the camera doesnt have a UV filter. May be the lamp is puting too much UV light thru the panel.
The 2 glasses where in the original setup to form a tunnel for air convecting and aisle the light box from the panel, but it seems is not really necesary. The fresnels gets just a little warm. May be I´ll keep just one glass but with some UV filtering property.
I note that the Fresnels gets colder than the LCD so the heat is carried by the light itself and is more infuyent than the irradiated heat from the bulb. So I think it´s is more important a Fan in the LCD side than in the fresnel side (I hope it make sense - sorry about my english). I´ll try to add an small 1" fan in the LCD side. At the moment it seems not to be necesary but just in case...
I´ve taken some new pics of the proyector mounted in place and some images on the proyection screen. I´ll post some ASAP.
Bernardo.
Try useing a cold mirror. You'll be totally happy afterwards! It will remove heat from light source. Allow IR (heat) and UV(bad for eyes AND panel) to pass streight through and never hit yer panel even. They are about 90% reflective in visible spectrum and pass all unvisible light streight through. Designed to be most productive when at 45o to incident of light. Dichroics RULE and when talking pj light engines they are so often overlooked in DIY. But the big boys dont over look it.
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