If I see well, the output signals go to the yellow tantalum and there should be inputs of TPA chips.
Bypass everything from the input socket.
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So, I need a cheap board too for my portable system.
Which one is the better revison of 2.1 TPA3116 board?
Is TPA3116 also suitable for 8Ohm speaker?
I have 2 old TOA SL-152 speaker
My plan is to use an old Harman Kardon SUB-TS11 as the main unite with Li-Ion battery, Sony BM10 receiver and a 2.1 channel amp like showed in the picture and another for the TOA speaker. would be a TAS5611 with 30V supply better?
Thanks so much guys XD
Which one is the better revison of 2.1 TPA3116 board?
Is TPA3116 also suitable for 8Ohm speaker?
I have 2 old TOA SL-152 speaker
My plan is to use an old Harman Kardon SUB-TS11 as the main unite with Li-Ion battery, Sony BM10 receiver and a 2.1 channel amp like showed in the picture and another for the TOA speaker. would be a TAS5611 with 30V supply better?
Thanks so much guys XD
It's always a mystery to me how to figure out whether a certain amp would be good to drive certain speakers.
Can anyone explain whether a 2x50w tpa3116d2 would be good to drive these speakers:
Bausatz Samuel HQ – Heissmann Acoustics
I've tried Googling to read up on how to match an amplifier to a certain speaker, but after reading 3 different articles I'm just not getting it. What's the continuous power of the tpa3116? What's the peak? How does the impedance graph of the speaker come into play?
I have a spare Onkyo SR 703 amp I could use, but it's really big and over-featured - I'd rather use a small diy tpa3116d2 amp.
Unless that'll have less AQ of course.
Can anyone explain whether a 2x50w tpa3116d2 would be good to drive these speakers:
Bausatz Samuel HQ – Heissmann Acoustics
I've tried Googling to read up on how to match an amplifier to a certain speaker, but after reading 3 different articles I'm just not getting it. What's the continuous power of the tpa3116? What's the peak? How does the impedance graph of the speaker come into play?
I have a spare Onkyo SR 703 amp I could use, but it's really big and over-featured - I'd rather use a small diy tpa3116d2 amp.
Unless that'll have less AQ of course.
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It's done, no more hiss. I don't know why someone thought this op amp was needed, even now those input pots cannot be turned over 50% with regular level input.
Interesting to see only 1-2A at 18V draw when music is really loud. Only thing is, now it turns off like it's not getting enough juice, but this power supply has driven hungrier amps without a problem. New 24V power supply is in the mail anyway so I'll see later
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My experience is TPA3116 generates a lot of hiss if it looks into a high impedance (>10K) at the input. iIt may be an impedance that is only high impedance at higher frequencies, like a poor ESR capacitor.
I always try to put 4K7 across (to ground) the input terminals if the source allows that.
I always try to put 4K7 across (to ground) the input terminals if the source allows that.
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Certainly looks more like input coupling caps, the use of cheap mylar caps terrifies although the packaging for the inductors is very neat
Continuous power? It's capable of 50w per BTL (that's per side, it has 2 sides that can be tied for 100w PBTL)
That is if you can tolerate 10% THD. keep it below 40W per channel and it should be mostly <1% or 0.1% even
Peak power? Who knows but that's not crucial. also depends on output inductors. 220 marked inductors are best suited for 8 ohm speakers but 4 ohms speakers should be fine
TI however says peak current is capable of 7.5A. Plenty
Well for example the one I linked couple pages back seems to be ok. Not the cheapest but has quite a lot adjustments (frequencies, levels) compared to others.
YesIs TPA3116 also suitable for 8Ohm speaker?
I have 2 old TOA SL-152 speaker
Another? You can power all three speakers with one 2.1 amp.
Ok, input caps are bypassed now. Now that op amp is gone, they are in series with yellow ones anyway, I think I'll just replace them with polypropylene 0.22 uF and that's it.
Got new power supply, 24V 6A (9A peak, or so they say) so it is running in good conditions. Can't say much about SQ yet other than "it sounds nice", but wow this can be loud. I think power supply gets to its limits before amp but at those levels it is too loud, except testing I will never go there. Interesting how much can this little board give
Got new power supply, 24V 6A (9A peak, or so they say) so it is running in good conditions. Can't say much about SQ yet other than "it sounds nice", but wow this can be loud. I think power supply gets to its limits before amp but at those levels it is too loud, except testing I will never go there. Interesting how much can this little board give
Ok, input caps are bypassed now. Now that op amp is gone, they are in series with yellow ones anyway, I think I'll just replace them with polypropylene 0.22 uF and that's it.
Got new power supply, 24V 6A (9A peak, or so they say) so it is running in good conditions. Can't say much about SQ yet other than "it sounds nice", but wow this can be loud. I think power supply gets to its limits before amp but at those levels it is too loud, except testing I will never go there. Interesting how much can this little board give
Reference calls for 1uF input caps
Thanks for the info.
And I typed double wrong. There are 2.2 electrolytic caps on input now (not 0.22), but that value was because of (now missing) TL074, then there is a yellow tantalum in audio path between op amp and TPA. So I should go with a better 1uF, that yellow one should already be 1uF
And I typed double wrong. There are 2.2 electrolytic caps on input now (not 0.22), but that value was because of (now missing) TL074, then there is a yellow tantalum in audio path between op amp and TPA. So I should go with a better 1uF, that yellow one should already be 1uF
I have an amplifier thats almost equal to the one of Dac0908, but there is some difference in the position of the yellow capacitors and the layout. Nevertheless I gave it a try. I thought just bypassing the opamp should be sufficient and I made the connections. Unfortunately there is no music. Have I made wrong connections or do I have to remove the opamp? Not clear visible in the picture: the leg of the capacitor that is connected to the wire is disconnected from the board.
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I have the same board as you. Unsolder the 074 completely. Find the resistors marked 202 on R12 and R16. Solder R12 to what was pin 14 and R16 to what was pin 8.
Those are input caps and datasheet calls for 1uF nonpolar capsI wouldn't put 2.2 ecaps cos their ESR is ungodly but if you have those yellow caps they might just be MLCC...
Ceramic ESR is very low but their sound is poor.
Ok so those yellow tantalum caps are 10 uF? Honestly I couldn't tell, there are some letters on it but its's a smidge, really small.
@taita, I think that @whoever got it right. We have a bit different boards, mine is dual chip. It's just about following audio path from input through pots, caps, some resistors, TL, yellow caps, then to TPA. Basic thing is you need to skip TL074. But if you don't get rid of it, it will be working and amplifyng (10x as irribeo said) until you cut its's power so really, my advice is just pry it off like I did.
But you know, I'm not responsible blah blah blah...
Anyway, glad I could give you guys some ideas. That amount of noise really isn't acceptable, and class D is like,
@taita, I think that @whoever got it right. We have a bit different boards, mine is dual chip. It's just about following audio path from input through pots, caps, some resistors, TL, yellow caps, then to TPA. Basic thing is you need to skip TL074. But if you don't get rid of it, it will be working and amplifyng (10x as irribeo said) until you cut its's power so really, my advice is just pry it off like I did.
But you know, I'm not responsible blah blah blah...
Anyway, glad I could give you guys some ideas. That amount of noise really isn't acceptable, and class D is like,
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