As said, I pointed you to a few mistakes and you can decide to follow the current road or to do things slightly better (and cheaper). If you test with speakers you are simply asking for trouble.
Even if the amp behaved strange you still should not have used it with load on one channel. It does not make things better. One can not correct an error with a second error anyway.
Even if the amp behaved strange you still should not have used it with load on one channel. It does not make things better. One can not correct an error with a second error anyway.
Yes probabely. But I had since today no problems with testing amp and others electrical things :-D
Both channel are PBTL. So testing only one channel should not be a problem after the left were totally dead
I only replug the amp for taking a picture with the smoke for ali and after that I Want to look if the other amp works normaly. Because of seperated amps I was hoping to get some musik and take a look at the sound quality^^
Both channel are PBTL. So testing only one channel should not be a problem after the left were totally dead
I only replug the amp for taking a picture with the smoke for ali and after that I Want to look if the other amp works normaly. Because of seperated amps I was hoping to get some musik and take a look at the sound quality^^
Again you assume something as you likely don't have a schematic. It really is better to learn to never use any amplifier without load. Thinking like this prevents from other future failures with the majority of amplifiers. When applying this simple knowledge I would not even need to technically explain why you absolutely use tube amplifiers with load connected as you would do it by habit. Adhering to simple procedure will have a way higher success rate. Fact. Some need several pairs of woofers to understand which is fine (at a cost). So developing a good habit covers many possible failures and does not have negative side effects.
You simply were lucky till now. Certainly with cheap stuff from chinese origin always visually check stuff and connections and then test with load resistors and limited power. It is simple. 2 resistors and a regulated PSU with current limiting. A pair of cheap small speakers for testing a few hours. Will save money and stress, higher chance of satisfaction.
You simply were lucky till now. Certainly with cheap stuff from chinese origin always visually check stuff and connections and then test with load resistors and limited power. It is simple. 2 resistors and a regulated PSU with current limiting. A pair of cheap small speakers for testing a few hours. Will save money and stress, higher chance of satisfaction.
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I will add to Jean-Paul's clever words the initial turn-on procedure:
Do exactly as described above with less that maximum voltage, current limiter etc.
Also, keep the first switch-on time very short. Prepare your voltmeter to measure the supply voltage. Switch the amplifier ON for just 2 seconds for a start and then OFF. The power line decoupling capacitors will then be charged. Then, you grab the voltmeter and measure that the supply voltage on the on-board decoupling capacitors slowly decay (no sourcing from the power supply anymore). If the voltage on the on-board decoupling capacitors is gone in a split second, it indicates a too high current consumption (then check the circuit before trying again). If the voltage decays nicely, then try with an ON-time of 5 seconds. If still nice and peaceful, then try it out as an amplifier operated at less than maximum supply voltage.
"Fireworks" in electronic circuits are sourced by energy from the power supply. The less energy that is available to cause havoc, the less damage on your amplifier board you will have.
You have an impressive color on the PBC where the TPA3116 IC used to be (it is still there but carbonized?!). The IC is undoubtedly dead, but also the PCB seems to have suffered serious damage. Your power supply was probably more than 100W. That energy subjected to a narrow area for many seconds will result in serious heating. This is why it is important to keep initial testing energy down until it is likely everything works.
Do exactly as described above with less that maximum voltage, current limiter etc.
Also, keep the first switch-on time very short. Prepare your voltmeter to measure the supply voltage. Switch the amplifier ON for just 2 seconds for a start and then OFF. The power line decoupling capacitors will then be charged. Then, you grab the voltmeter and measure that the supply voltage on the on-board decoupling capacitors slowly decay (no sourcing from the power supply anymore). If the voltage on the on-board decoupling capacitors is gone in a split second, it indicates a too high current consumption (then check the circuit before trying again). If the voltage decays nicely, then try with an ON-time of 5 seconds. If still nice and peaceful, then try it out as an amplifier operated at less than maximum supply voltage.
"Fireworks" in electronic circuits are sourced by energy from the power supply. The less energy that is available to cause havoc, the less damage on your amplifier board you will have.
You have an impressive color on the PBC where the TPA3116 IC used to be (it is still there but carbonized?!). The IC is undoubtedly dead, but also the PCB seems to have suffered serious damage. Your power supply was probably more than 100W. That energy subjected to a narrow area for many seconds will result in serious heating. This is why it is important to keep initial testing energy down until it is likely everything works.
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The point is that with limited energy your amplifier probably would not have burned. I am almost convinced it would have worked OK but an error was made. Using a procedure as decribed would have given you time for fault finding without destruction.
Reusing components from an amplifier that burned/shorted does not seem the wisest of choices. Well, you can do of course but prepare to enjoy the sweet smell of burned woofers. I had to experience it too before accepting systematic working.
Reusing components from an amplifier that burned/shorted does not seem the wisest of choices. Well, you can do of course but prepare to enjoy the sweet smell of burned woofers. I had to experience it too before accepting systematic working.
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for me broken is broken. With limited current it should probabely not bruned as he does with unlimited current ;-) It must be a short circuit on the board^^
The only thing which was working is the blue led..
Maybe removing the heatsink should broken something... I don't know
We can debate hours and hours but "broken is broken" is a simple truth. Just like "think before you act" and "don't try to fix what is not broken"
Good luck with the next one but make sure you at least grasp some of the simple tips you got. Check your parts bin for a LM317 and an old transformer. Build a simple adjustable PSU. Order 2 x 8,2 Ohm 5W. Done. Don't change anything and test your device the way Fauxfrench has described with load resistors connected. "Erfolg" the way you want it
Good luck with the next one but make sure you at least grasp some of the simple tips you got. Check your parts bin for a LM317 and an old transformer. Build a simple adjustable PSU. Order 2 x 8,2 Ohm 5W. Done. Don't change anything and test your device the way Fauxfrench has described with load resistors connected. "Erfolg" the way you want it
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Hello, can you explain this please? What will it do? Also, is it possible to solder to one ground point and not to PCB ground? Will the result be the same?
And why put strip on the input connector? Is this shorting the L, R and GND?
Sorry for these multiple questions but I have the same amplifier board and would like to know how can this improve the sound.
Thank you
Qualcuno conosce il valore degli SMD di questa versione della 3116D2 Mini ed in particolare C2-C3-C4-C5 C16,17,18,19. C1 e C15 dovrebbero essere 220uF ?. C11,12,13,14 credo siano 0,22uF ?. qualcuno la ha modificata? Google Image Result for https://i1.wp.com/bdshop4u.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/12548_3_9428.jpg?fit=600%2C450
1) Don't operate them without a heatsink. It was never a good idea. That should have been a big bad sign that something was going to go horribly wrong!
2) Never operate a amp without a load, it isn't a headphone amp.
AMP has at it first both, heatsink and speaker. I was for the picture with the smoke^^ After the amp dead i dont want to put again my speaker on this peace o crap....
And using it whitout heatsink work... Amp has thermal shutdown^^
If you ar listen not too loud its not a problem. I testet it with an other AMP ;-)
TPA3118 has no heatsink but can also overheat when you cool them better it can handle more power
hansueli,
You are right, at moderate supply voltages and sound-levels the chip can be tested without a heatsink. If it gets too hot, the thermal protection should shut it down without damage.
"...piece of crap..." is more arguable. I have tested many 3116/3118 boards of much lower quality than the one you show. With a careful start-up procedure, I have never seen a board being damaged. I doubt that the board you show has not been tested before shipment.
Anyway, this is what happens to us all (some kind of amplifier-fatal accident) at some moment and we have to get back to our DIY experiments having learned from the accident.
In another thread (posting #28):
TPA3116 Disaster - Boom
I have described how I analyzed 4 defect TPA3116 boards (double chips like your board) and managed to make one channel work afterwards. Perhaps you could follow the same method and make the (now silent) channel work so you at least can test the sound (mono)?
You are right, at moderate supply voltages and sound-levels the chip can be tested without a heatsink. If it gets too hot, the thermal protection should shut it down without damage.
"...piece of crap..." is more arguable. I have tested many 3116/3118 boards of much lower quality than the one you show. With a careful start-up procedure, I have never seen a board being damaged. I doubt that the board you show has not been tested before shipment.
Anyway, this is what happens to us all (some kind of amplifier-fatal accident) at some moment and we have to get back to our DIY experiments having learned from the accident.
In another thread (posting #28):
TPA3116 Disaster - Boom
I have described how I analyzed 4 defect TPA3116 boards (double chips like your board) and managed to make one channel work afterwards. Perhaps you could follow the same method and make the (now silent) channel work so you at least can test the sound (mono)?
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Hi, I'm a newbie to this sort of thing and have been reading a bit over the last week, to try and not ask the most basic questions but I'm still a little confused on some specifics. The background is I'm upgrading the TV sound/occasionally music for a 5x4m room. I won't need a ton of watts.
Board: from couple of pages back
TPA3116 2.1 50Wx2+100W Amplifier Board Digital HIFI 12-24V Super Bass Speaker | eBay
Speakers: Infinity Reference 152's. They are 8 ohm, 87 db sensitivity, 20-150 watt range.
Old unused system TEAC PLS-55 5.1.
Sub: passive 4 Ohm 25w nominal, 50w max
Front & centre: 4 Ohm, 15/30w
Rears: 8 Ohm, 7.5/15w
PSU:
90w 19v 4.7a laptop psu
Having been reading and learning I've got some question (I've seen conflicting advice on some of these)
1. Can I mix 4 ohm sub + 8 ohm speakers on the 3115d2, dual chips? That board has the adjustment knobs to turn down the sub. The 4 ohm sub is just sitting there, I'm tempted to try it.
2. that PSU with deliver, 45W at 8 ohms? Ignoring loses, potentially 22.5+22.5 at 8 ohms without the sub, which seems to be plenty for the size of the room and how we listen. However the sub would eat into that, but it is a small sub so probably not a lot?
3. If the sub is rubbish and the speakers sound better on their own, can I just leave the sub connection on the board empty? I've seem people say that is fine with modern boards. Over the last few pages I've seen several experience people say never operate without a load. I'm a bit confused on this, should make some sort of dummy for the sub connection if I never want to use it?
Board: from couple of pages back
TPA3116 2.1 50Wx2+100W Amplifier Board Digital HIFI 12-24V Super Bass Speaker | eBay
Speakers: Infinity Reference 152's. They are 8 ohm, 87 db sensitivity, 20-150 watt range.
Old unused system TEAC PLS-55 5.1.
Sub: passive 4 Ohm 25w nominal, 50w max
Front & centre: 4 Ohm, 15/30w
Rears: 8 Ohm, 7.5/15w
PSU:
90w 19v 4.7a laptop psu
Having been reading and learning I've got some question (I've seen conflicting advice on some of these)
1. Can I mix 4 ohm sub + 8 ohm speakers on the 3115d2, dual chips? That board has the adjustment knobs to turn down the sub. The 4 ohm sub is just sitting there, I'm tempted to try it.
2. that PSU with deliver, 45W at 8 ohms? Ignoring loses, potentially 22.5+22.5 at 8 ohms without the sub, which seems to be plenty for the size of the room and how we listen. However the sub would eat into that, but it is a small sub so probably not a lot?
3. If the sub is rubbish and the speakers sound better on their own, can I just leave the sub connection on the board empty? I've seem people say that is fine with modern boards. Over the last few pages I've seen several experience people say never operate without a load. I'm a bit confused on this, should make some sort of dummy for the sub connection if I never want to use it?
1) Yes the sub channel is separate. It's ok to use a 4 ohm sub with 8 ohm bookshelves. You will have to tone the bass down.
2) The speaker impedance has no bearing on the PSU's ability to supply power.
3) Depends on how it's done. I ran my FX 2.1-BL without a sub for a few days and it didn't go bang soooo...