• WARNING: Tube/Valve amplifiers use potentially LETHAL HIGH VOLTAGES.
    Building, troubleshooting and testing of these amplifiers should only be
    performed by someone who is thoroughly familiar with
    the safety precautions around high voltages.

Audio Note Kits L1 Build...

Member
Joined 2021
Paid Member
315V is fine. But if you want to be strictly within 300V, then B+ from the power supply should be 15V lower. But, again, this is not really an issue at all, you can tune the circuit after you build it and look at the real values.
89VDC at six, 0,85VAC at seven, 198VDC at one, and 92VDC at eight.

I do not understand why you consider those voltages odd. They are perfectly normal, for a voltage amp stage followed by a Dc-coupled phase-splitter, as I explained in my previous post.
At seven you have the bias voltage.
PS. On my phone now, will put a bit more details when I go back in front of my pc.
 
315V is fine. But if you want to be strictly within 300V, then B+ from the power supply should be 15V lower. But, again, this is not really an issue at all, you can tune the circuit after you build it and look at the real values.

Trouble is I have spent about 30 minutes trying to find a bridge rectifier calculator or formula to no avail. I was curious about 6v versus 6,3v, 12,0 versus 12,6v...

I do not understand why you consider those voltages odd. They are perfectly normal, for a voltage amp stage followed by a Dc-coupled phase-splitter, as I explained in my previous post.

Yes, that curiosity proved fruitful as now understand resistors reduce voltage, which is happening here. Now it leaves me wondering what R18, LED lamp, V1 through V3 are doing (especially the red line labeled 3V15, Google produces no results) plus EC1 through EC4 and RR1 though RR5 connected to it. Though a curiosity, not going to delay the build.

PS. On my phone now, will put a bit more details when I go back in front of my pc.

Appreciated. :)
 
Now that starting to feel more well, realizing how little ability to think clearly, example, totally missing the bottom most circuit is for the tube heaters, duh. :rolleyes: Speaking of which, even virtually building, via creating a BOM, I am learning (ex. the two diodes (D5 and 6) are converting AC to DC heaters).

Now it is the low resolution schematic and missing information presenting difficulty, here is the items needing clarification:
R-OP1 - 0.68Ω?
LED1- No specification; 580 to choose from. Curios though not necessary to prove the reason for it.
RR7 & 8 Not fully specified, 1W?

L1 1? 8H 300ma Not finding this specification on Mouser.
RV1A
R17 Not fully specified, 1W?
C9 Not legible.
R1-4 Not legible and not fully specified.
C7 Not legible and not fully specified.
R8 Not legible and not fully specified.
C3 and 5 0,22μF is all that is legible, 630VDC?
R14 and 15 Not fully specified.
R10 Not fully specified.

By the way, using both schematics to ascertain the information, of some help.

Thanks in advance! :D
 
Now that starting to feel more well, realizing how little ability to think clearly, example, totally missing the bottom most circuit is for the tube heaters, duh. Speaking of which, even virtually building, via creating a BOM, I am learning (ex. the two diodes (D5 and 6) are converting AC to DC heaters).

Now it is the low resolution schematic and missing information presenting difficulty, here is the items needing clarification:
R-OP1 - 0.68Ω?
LED1- No specification; 580 to choose from. Curios though not necessary to prove the reason for it.
RR7 & 8 Not fully specified, 1W?

L1 1? 8H 300ma Not finding this specification on Mouser.
RV1A
R17 Not fully specified, 1W?
C9 Not legible.
R1-4 Not legible and not fully specified.
C7 Not legible and not fully specified.
R8 Not legible and not fully specified.
C3 and 5 0,22μF is all that is legible, 630VDC?
R14 and 15 Not fully specified.
R10 Not fully specified.

Edit - Now I see the original schematic and specifies 2W for the resistors, though some been crossed out and changed to 1W. Interestingly, on revisions E and F, the wattages vary, R10 and 11 are 3W. Additionally, on the original schematic the capacitors are specified at 400VDC, except C5 and 6, 50VAC, though looks like E and F been changed to 63VDC; C2 on E and F also seems to differ from original, maybe 160VDC (not legible enough to be confident).
By the way, using both schematics to ascertain the information, of some help.

Thanks in advance! :D