I don't seem to have the P/N in my part list, but you want something for the TO-220 package type.
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMttgyDkZ5WiuvoQ07e5IX8gAAap/4nOvM8=
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMttgyDkZ5WiuvoQ07e5IX8gAAap/4nOvM8=
Most 3-terminal devices that have conductive cases for heat sinking tie the case to the center pin. This is just how the guts of the internal package are arranged. If you look at the spec of the CCS, the center pin is the input. If you look at the schematic, the inputs of both CCSs are tied to B+. So in this case, it's OK for the CCSs to "short-out" together on the heatsink. Georges PCB does not tie the heatsink supports to ground.
I think he is just taking the simplest road here. He does have you put insulators on the heater supply rectifier/regulator because it's not OK for those two packages to be shorted. You can insulate the CCSs if you want to make the heat sink safe. If that is your goal, you should also ground it for safety. I would also ground the FET heatsinks too, even though those packages are non-conductive.
I think he is just taking the simplest road here. He does have you put insulators on the heater supply rectifier/regulator because it's not OK for those two packages to be shorted. You can insulate the CCSs if you want to make the heat sink safe. If that is your goal, you should also ground it for safety. I would also ground the FET heatsinks too, even though those packages are non-conductive.
its not if you win or lose, it's how you play the game 
so now I'm in waiting mode for the power transformer to show up before I can do a checkout.
This time I'm going the simple hammond case route. it won't be pretty, but it should be a lot easier to mount connectors, switches, pots etc
so now I'm in waiting mode for the power transformer to show up before I can do a checkout.
This time I'm going the simple hammond case route. it won't be pretty, but it should be a lot easier to mount connectors, switches, pots etc
Attachments
I was in the same boat for a while while waiting for iron for the SSE. I found an old, umarked transformer that seemed to have 700VCT HT winding. PSUD told me that if I left off C4 I'd get a hair over 300V B+. Worked like a charm, except for the buzz coming from the Hammond choke. Ran like that for a month or two at least until the custom Edcor arrived for it.
Ok, Russ asked me in another thread where I was with the build... so I was guilted into spending some time this eve on the SE amp instead of practicing my guitar
Yeah, it was torture.
So here is the planned inside of the chassis. I'm using a very standard aluminium chassis, with an optional grey ugly cage if I put it where normal people can touch it.
The idea is that I will put the PCB on standoffs on the bottom of the enclosure and cut holes for the tubes on the top plate. Since I didn't do anything special for PCB mounting under the chassis, the gain tubes probably won't poke out much. That's fine, because I planned this build to be more easy access to the board than an under chassis would allow.
Sort of taking George's Lexan amp to heart but using the standard hammond enclosure. I am considering hinges on the top plate... perhaps some gas shocks to open the hood. Ok, kidding on the last I can only imagine the amp toppling over with the weight of the xfmrs.
Yeah, it was torture.
So here is the planned inside of the chassis. I'm using a very standard aluminium chassis, with an optional grey ugly cage if I put it where normal people can touch it.
The idea is that I will put the PCB on standoffs on the bottom of the enclosure and cut holes for the tubes on the top plate. Since I didn't do anything special for PCB mounting under the chassis, the gain tubes probably won't poke out much. That's fine, because I planned this build to be more easy access to the board than an under chassis would allow.
Sort of taking George's Lexan amp to heart but using the standard hammond enclosure. I am considering hinges on the top plate... perhaps some gas shocks to open the hood. Ok, kidding on the last I can only imagine the amp toppling over with the weight of the xfmrs.
Attachments
and here is the top on with power xfmr and opt placement.
I'd considered putting the big AC cap on top, but it wouldn't fit under the cage.
Oh and this is a 300B only build ... of course it's possible I'll tear it down and do a 45. But I'm thinking I'd rather do a new amp for a 45 once I find the right tubes.
I'd considered putting the big AC cap on top, but it wouldn't fit under the cage.
Oh and this is a 300B only build ... of course it's possible I'll tear it down and do a 45. But I'm thinking I'd rather do a new amp for a 45 once I find the right tubes.
Attachments
more progress... mostly.
Drilled all of the holes for the xfmrs, and grommeted the wire entry.
Unfortunately when I was working on the tube holes, my el-cheapo harbor freight hole punch set gave up the ghost. You can see the screw on the top plate, bent quite a bit. What happened is that the cutting piece of the punch lost a couples of edges - looks like it was made out of cast iron. So when I was tightening it at some point it decided to bend rather than cut.
My intention was to use the small hole cutter to cut the big ones, since the screw for the larger diameter holes is so big, I can't find a drill bit large enough for the pilot hole! I may have to resort to using a dremel cutting tool to get my pilot hole started for the other three tubes.
This chassis is a lot bigger than it needs to be, but I purposely wanted this to be an easy build.
The only things unusual I have planned are hinges for the top plate and handles on the side for easy transport.
Drilled all of the holes for the xfmrs, and grommeted the wire entry.
Unfortunately when I was working on the tube holes, my el-cheapo harbor freight hole punch set gave up the ghost. You can see the screw on the top plate, bent quite a bit. What happened is that the cutting piece of the punch lost a couples of edges - looks like it was made out of cast iron. So when I was tightening it at some point it decided to bend rather than cut.
My intention was to use the small hole cutter to cut the big ones, since the screw for the larger diameter holes is so big, I can't find a drill bit large enough for the pilot hole! I may have to resort to using a dremel cutting tool to get my pilot hole started for the other three tubes.
This chassis is a lot bigger than it needs to be, but I purposely wanted this to be an easy build.
The only things unusual I have planned are hinges for the top plate and handles on the side for easy transport.
Attachments
power xfmr and opts wired up & power switch. Also got the handles on the side of the box on. I think they are going to come in real handy.
My biggest issues are the holes for the tubes. I'll probably end up buying a hole saw and cutting a smaller than needed hole - and then use a bigger punch. You can see what a mess the small punch made of the gain tube holes. I plan on enlarging them and covering the holes with a metal mesh - the board sits low enough that the gain tubes won't come close to poking out of the top plate.
I have a few component subs to do on the PCB and wire up the volume and input jacks. I have some nice shielded audio cable in the office that I'll use for that.
I bought a hinge for the top plate, but that might need a degree of accuracy that me and my hand drill can't match. Wish I had a press...
Oh, and the wood block is temporary until I have worked out all the grounds.
My biggest issues are the holes for the tubes. I'll probably end up buying a hole saw and cutting a smaller than needed hole - and then use a bigger punch. You can see what a mess the small punch made of the gain tube holes. I plan on enlarging them and covering the holes with a metal mesh - the board sits low enough that the gain tubes won't come close to poking out of the top plate.
I have a few component subs to do on the PCB and wire up the volume and input jacks. I have some nice shielded audio cable in the office that I'll use for that.
I bought a hinge for the top plate, but that might need a degree of accuracy that me and my hand drill can't match. Wish I had a press...
Oh, and the wood block is temporary until I have worked out all the grounds.
Attachments
wired the input and vol pot up this evening... added a few missing grounds.... and powered her up.
No blown fuses.
B+ settled at 412 or so. B- was at -245, which has me a bit concerned.
Haven't popped in the 300b's yet or the gain tubes. I'll do that tomorrow, past the second beer mark and I know better than to be messing with this now...
I still have to find a piece of aluminum that is thick enough to attach to the heat sink. I thought for sure I'd have something around... guess I'll have to hit the local HW store for stock.
No blown fuses.
B+ settled at 412 or so. B- was at -245, which has me a bit concerned.
Haven't popped in the 300b's yet or the gain tubes. I'll do that tomorrow, past the second beer mark and I know better than to be messing with this now...
I still have to find a piece of aluminum that is thick enough to attach to the heat sink. I thought for sure I'd have something around... guess I'll have to hit the local HW store for stock.
Doc JR, here - http://www.tubelab.com/AssemblyManualTubelabSE/PartsLists_TSE.htm and 5H 200mA
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.