> I now have water damage
My last house, I had to go up from under with pressure-treat lumber to prevent the toilet falling through. Wide-space (barked log) framing, and I didn't want to remove the semi-functional floor boards because it was a Lead toilet bend so taking the flange off and re-connecting is a lost art. (But now I know what a "lead pipe cinch" is.) I got some 2x6 between logs and sill to support and hold the flange and toilet base.
On this house, I specified 4'x4' of pressure-treat plywood all around the proposed toilet hole. Nominally this meant one sheet cut for two layers. The carpenter never heard of that but thought it was a good idea. (Actually the surrounding ply is 1-1/16 and the PT ply is 7/16 so there's some shimming.)
Not telling you how to do it. Mostly when I see a toilet shut-off that hasn't moved in decades, I don't go near it. Get a BrassCraft slip-fit shutoff valve before you start, drain the pipe, cut the old stuck weepy valve right off.
You younger guys: those flex pipes come in two sizes: sink, and toilet. For historical reason a toilet pipe has a big end on it, sink-ends are smaller. By not knowing (or remembering) this I now have a fair collection of both types, bought by mistake for one house or another.
My last house, I had to go up from under with pressure-treat lumber to prevent the toilet falling through. Wide-space (barked log) framing, and I didn't want to remove the semi-functional floor boards because it was a Lead toilet bend so taking the flange off and re-connecting is a lost art. (But now I know what a "lead pipe cinch" is.) I got some 2x6 between logs and sill to support and hold the flange and toilet base.
On this house, I specified 4'x4' of pressure-treat plywood all around the proposed toilet hole. Nominally this meant one sheet cut for two layers. The carpenter never heard of that but thought it was a good idea. (Actually the surrounding ply is 1-1/16 and the PT ply is 7/16 so there's some shimming.)
Not telling you how to do it. Mostly when I see a toilet shut-off that hasn't moved in decades, I don't go near it. Get a BrassCraft slip-fit shutoff valve before you start, drain the pipe, cut the old stuck weepy valve right off.
You younger guys: those flex pipes come in two sizes: sink, and toilet. For historical reason a toilet pipe has a big end on it, sink-ends are smaller. By not knowing (or remembering) this I now have a fair collection of both types, bought by mistake for one house or another.
Thanks for a warning - which came too late!!! The roads here are really bad!
I like BrassCraft Push Connect 1/4-Turn; there's also a straight version.
H-D also has SharkBite-- I like the BrassCraft considerably better. (You do not need a special tool to get them off.) However SB is an H-D captive brand while BC is not, H-D stocks about 7X more SB than BC-- you have to hunt.
H-D also has SharkBite-- I like the BrassCraft considerably better. (You do not need a special tool to get them off.) However SB is an H-D captive brand while BC is not, H-D stocks about 7X more SB than BC-- you have to hunt.
Attachments
I have not heard of pressure treated plywood, maybe marine grade.
I like the high-altitude fir, with a marine grade glue, paper face on both sides.
100 pounds a sheet in a 1” thickness, but is quite strong. I use it under tile installations.
I won’t use pex, just not going to do that to the next generation. It’s plastic, it’s not a question as to whether it will fail, but when. Water mains in our neighborhoods yards are beginning to fail from the last great thing, way before that similar systems were banned from inside mobile homes.
I like the high-altitude fir, with a marine grade glue, paper face on both sides.
100 pounds a sheet in a 1” thickness, but is quite strong. I use it under tile installations.
I won’t use pex, just not going to do that to the next generation. It’s plastic, it’s not a question as to whether it will fail, but when. Water mains in our neighborhoods yards are beginning to fail from the last great thing, way before that similar systems were banned from inside mobile homes.
Research "pinholes in copper pipe".
I have repaired 5 in the last 12 years in this house. It is 45 years old and I suspect that is the life of copper pipe.
My last house had none, but I had replaced the Iron Pipe with copper only ten years before I sold it.
Depending on the ph of your water and the thickness of the copper pipe (In the USA there are three grades/thicknesses) it may be as little as 10 years or as much as 50 years.
It is not a question of if it will fail, but when....
I have repaired 5 in the last 12 years in this house. It is 45 years old and I suspect that is the life of copper pipe.
My last house had none, but I had replaced the Iron Pipe with copper only ten years before I sold it.
Depending on the ph of your water and the thickness of the copper pipe (In the USA there are three grades/thicknesses) it may be as little as 10 years or as much as 50 years.
It is not a question of if it will fail, but when....
> I have not heard of pressure treated plywood
In stock at Home Depot.
The copper in my 1948 house is rotten. (The copper may be a later addition-- I've suspected in 1948 it was bucket from the creek and a little house in the side yard.) I touched a toilet line and it broke. (This is distinct from the bad workmanship in my 1983 house.)
In stock at Home Depot.
The copper in my 1948 house is rotten. (The copper may be a later addition-- I've suspected in 1948 it was bucket from the creek and a little house in the side yard.) I touched a toilet line and it broke. (This is distinct from the bad workmanship in my 1983 house.)
Sonance AC2 Power Sequencer (not my pic)
Not a purchase, but a gift from a friend. A fixer-upper, had a blown-out filter cap in the 12V supply, coupla cracked solder joints, top cover is missing - good excuse to buy a sheet metal brake. Got it working tonight, it's just what I was looking for to control my audio system. Will add an IR remote receiver next week.
Hey Joe, if you're reading this, thanks man! Give them dogs a pat on the head for me.
Not a purchase, but a gift from a friend. A fixer-upper, had a blown-out filter cap in the 12V supply, coupla cracked solder joints, top cover is missing - good excuse to buy a sheet metal brake. Got it working tonight, it's just what I was looking for to control my audio system. Will add an IR remote receiver next week.
Hey Joe, if you're reading this, thanks man! Give them dogs a pat on the head for me.
Chinese 8-32V 45-390V 40W boost PSU
So I bought one of these freely available cheap Chinese PSUs,
I don't have much faith that the 40W rating is accurate, but I've yet to test it out!
One opening I see the quality isn't quite up to scratch, some white flux fume marks, and a couple of solder joints I'd rather heat up and check. On this particular model which is single rail, I don't like that the transformer pins for that rail still exist and are merely not soldered. The clearance worries me.
Still, I'll cover the exposed pins with heatshrink tubing. I considered that I could add the output capacitor, diode and terminals as it seems their respective positions are merely unpopulated. However there are several small SMD devices and there may be components here that require populating, so heatshrink tubing seems the best idea for now.
I found a neat video showing someone testing the PSU.
https://youtu.be/qB8FpGTyVTw
I think maybe the load (3k) was a bit much load for the poor thing!
Hopefully I'll get some lab time this weekend to test this thing properly with an easier load!
So I bought one of these freely available cheap Chinese PSUs,
I don't have much faith that the 40W rating is accurate, but I've yet to test it out!
One opening I see the quality isn't quite up to scratch, some white flux fume marks, and a couple of solder joints I'd rather heat up and check. On this particular model which is single rail, I don't like that the transformer pins for that rail still exist and are merely not soldered. The clearance worries me.
Still, I'll cover the exposed pins with heatshrink tubing. I considered that I could add the output capacitor, diode and terminals as it seems their respective positions are merely unpopulated. However there are several small SMD devices and there may be components here that require populating, so heatshrink tubing seems the best idea for now.
I found a neat video showing someone testing the PSU.
https://youtu.be/qB8FpGTyVTw
I think maybe the load (3k) was a bit much load for the poor thing!
Hopefully I'll get some lab time this weekend to test this thing properly with an easier load!
Respect. So many divorces end in enmity and anger (my own parents could not be friends after their divorce, and I have heard of much worse), so I am sorry to hear of this but props to you for being the man we would all like to be.