Ok I have done a complete 180 on the design based on some information provided by wesayso. A design idea I have been planning on using for years is a bust.
More than a few people have had issues with cracking using "the slice of bread" method AKA translam, and not where you would expect it to crack.
Which leads me back to the more traditional designs. I have laid out the same design as best I can but I am pushing the board limits to fit it in.
More than a few people have had issues with cracking using "the slice of bread" method AKA translam, and not where you would expect it to crack.
Which leads me back to the more traditional designs. I have laid out the same design as best I can but I am pushing the board limits to fit it in.
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Ok so the footprint is a little larger than I would like at 700mm x 700mm square but I can live with it.
Have been working on a way to lock the corners on the inner layer, but haven't really come up with anything I am happy with. If I use the CNC to cut out perfect panels I then have the problem of the rounding in the inner corners.
What I really need is something to give me a nice sharp corner, or at least some way to sharpen the corner after it is cut out.
Note: Could use dovetails if I solve the corner problem.
Have been working on a way to lock the corners on the inner layer, but haven't really come up with anything I am happy with. If I use the CNC to cut out perfect panels I then have the problem of the rounding in the inner corners.
What I really need is something to give me a nice sharp corner, or at least some way to sharpen the corner after it is cut out.
Note: Could use dovetails if I solve the corner problem.
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I don't want to round the corners, but cutting with a round cutter ultimately leaves rounded corners on inner corners. Outside corners you can make a proper 90 degree corner.
Just redrawing the cabinet now to put 45 degree chamfers on the edges. A 45 degree edge gives me more glue surface area than a simple 90 degree butt joint.
Just redrawing the cabinet now to put 45 degree chamfers on the edges. A 45 degree edge gives me more glue surface area than a simple 90 degree butt joint.
Could you change the bit for a smaller, say 1/16", bit after the main pass is complete and do a finishing run to get you closer to square?
Another option could be using a router / router table afterwards to clean up the corners but it would be time consuming. (Obviously you could hand work with a chisel but = more time consuming).
I've had reasonable success in the past with a block of wood cut to the internal dimension with sandpaper taped on then just sand the last part of the profile to square.
Looking good though.
Changing to a smaller bit could help, but it would probably just be quicker to use a saw and do it manually.
Without using some tricky cutter I could only do square steps, which really wouldn't gain me a lot of extra strength like a dovetail joint would.
So I have decided to see if I can just use my table saw to put chamfers on the sides. Be quicker than using the CNC.
To make sure the corners seal properly I could put some 45 degree pieces of wood on the inside of the cabinet to screw to and cover the join line.
Without using some tricky cutter I could only do square steps, which really wouldn't gain me a lot of extra strength like a dovetail joint would.
So I have decided to see if I can just use my table saw to put chamfers on the sides. Be quicker than using the CNC.
To make sure the corners seal properly I could put some 45 degree pieces of wood on the inside of the cabinet to screw to and cover the join line.
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On a sub box I made previous I used some probably 50mm x 50mm triangle pieces in each of the corners. I could do that again and just trim the braces to fit around the triangle pieces, since the braces will be screwed in from all sides. Would give it maximum corner strength without compromising bracing strength.
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