I would second the use of an input cap to protect your amp. If one has to be, then there. (1)
Having said that, my understanding is you are using the B1 Korg to drive your amp, in which case it has an output cap, making your amp input cap redondant.
It could blow at B1K level, but then use PPP and they last for ever. However, you won't address (1) completely, in case you want to play with other devices. So if anything you should rather get rid of the output cap at the B1K output, but then if you use a very good one I am not sure you will hear many difference, B1K sound likely to reign.
Short: follow Anthony's advice. Oh, and what precedes the B1K (source) has little impact regarding DC (not sound!!), there are 3 coupling caps inside the B1K, 2 you can't get rid of whatever, so...
Claude
Having said that, my understanding is you are using the B1 Korg to drive your amp, in which case it has an output cap, making your amp input cap redondant.
It could blow at B1K level, but then use PPP and they last for ever. However, you won't address (1) completely, in case you want to play with other devices. So if anything you should rather get rid of the output cap at the B1K output, but then if you use a very good one I am not sure you will hear many difference, B1K sound likely to reign.
Short: follow Anthony's advice. Oh, and what precedes the B1K (source) has little impact regarding DC (not sound!!), there are 3 coupling caps inside the B1K, 2 you can't get rid of whatever, so...
Claude
Hi manniraj
There is a possibility that you may not have selected the good amp to build. It is difficult for me to know exactly your sound preference and that is why I suggest peoples to contact me by message to discuss about that and also the rest of your audio gear in order to know if the USSA amp is a good candidate for you. But even then it is difficult....
There is at least one member who have built both USSA5 and USSA3 amps and prefers the USSA3. See here:
Post your Solid State pics here.
So in case, the input cap (or non-input cap) and the breakin is not sufficient to bring the USSA5 amp to your expectations then you can consider converting your USSA5 boards into USSA3....
Otherwise you can sell your USSA5 boards on this forum .... I will simply hope you had at least some fun building it...
It is possible that your M2X is the amp perfectly fit for you.
Fab
There is a possibility that you may not have selected the good amp to build. It is difficult for me to know exactly your sound preference and that is why I suggest peoples to contact me by message to discuss about that and also the rest of your audio gear in order to know if the USSA amp is a good candidate for you. But even then it is difficult....
There is at least one member who have built both USSA5 and USSA3 amps and prefers the USSA3. See here:
Post your Solid State pics here.
So in case, the input cap (or non-input cap) and the breakin is not sufficient to bring the USSA5 amp to your expectations then you can consider converting your USSA5 boards into USSA3....
Otherwise you can sell your USSA5 boards on this forum ....
I will simply hope you had at least some fun building it...It is possible that your M2X is the amp perfectly fit for you.
Fab
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May I add that Fab is extremly good advice (not just on his amps) and quick to respond to personal requests re amp to build... eventhough like me you tinker ages around scenarii about what to do.
On the other hand, it is difficult not to find a suitable amp in Fab's line out, so there is always a solution
Claude (convinced to go Fab's route, likely FSSA2... or whatever he may come up with "for me")
On the other hand, it is difficult not to find a suitable amp in Fab's line out, so there is always a solution
Claude (convinced to go Fab's route, likely FSSA2... or whatever he may come up with "for me")
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Thanks ClaudeG and Pinnocchio
I forgot to mention that not only the USSA3 amp can have the H2 adjusted but also the USSA5 too but to a lesser extent. During the USSA5.1 test I was able to use different current source values for input stage positive and negative sides resulting in an increase or decrease of H2 (2nd harmonic of THD). I am saying that because a non overall feedback amplifier like the M2X may have a more dominant H2 ...
The USSA3 has a higher level of H2 adjustment and also have lower damping factor such as the M2X amp.
Without adjustment the USSA3 will normally have a higher level of H2 than USSA5.
So manniraj let me know if you want to experiment H2 tweaking on the USSA5 first
Fab
I forgot to mention that not only the USSA3 amp can have the H2 adjusted but also the USSA5 too but to a lesser extent. During the USSA5.1 test I was able to use different current source values for input stage positive and negative sides resulting in an increase or decrease of H2 (2nd harmonic of THD). I am saying that because a non overall feedback amplifier like the M2X may have a more dominant H2 ...
The USSA3 has a higher level of H2 adjustment and also have lower damping factor such as the M2X amp.
Without adjustment the USSA3 will normally have a higher level of H2 than USSA5.
So manniraj let me know if you want to experiment H2 tweaking on the USSA5 first
Fab
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I have 6 amps and 3 preamp. 6 sets of speakers lol
And lots of lots of messing around with my friends from playing in their garage to playing in their high end system.. Most stout audiophile have at least 2 setups at home. I can listen to a 200k system one day and go listen to a 1000 dollars diy am still happy... Cause simply they do different things..
Transformer coupled preamp.. Very nice texture and heavyness in mid low sector . Rolled off like tubes.. Everything seem alot of energy. my friend say it's best blah blah. But ehhh.. Long term not really
While things like usspa.. More released realistic sound you hear everything... Depth.. Width.. Room wall loses more of its border. It will go quiet as a mouse. Sweet when needed. Or roar like a lion.. It doesn't really have its character.
Which one really better? Long term... Usspa.. It does more things. And my experience is what get bored very quickly. Colored... Monotone everything have the same sound.. It sound magical at first but after two months.. .. Eventually... The most natural sounding one is the one is going to stay longest in your sistem. You hear sadness. Bad times. Good times. Happyness and excitement. Another one happy all the time.. Just my experiences... But if you have both.. Even happier lolol.
Since it's diy.... Just hoarde it.. It's cheap compared to buying from factory ..hi end at a fraction. i always find different way and mood of enjoying it
My humble 2 cents
And lots of lots of messing around with my friends from playing in their garage to playing in their high end system.. Most stout audiophile have at least 2 setups at home. I can listen to a 200k system one day and go listen to a 1000 dollars diy am still happy... Cause simply they do different things..
Transformer coupled preamp.. Very nice texture and heavyness in mid low sector . Rolled off like tubes.. Everything seem alot of energy. my friend say it's best blah blah. But ehhh.. Long term not really
While things like usspa.. More released realistic sound you hear everything... Depth.. Width.. Room wall loses more of its border. It will go quiet as a mouse. Sweet when needed. Or roar like a lion.. It doesn't really have its character.
Which one really better? Long term... Usspa.. It does more things. And my experience is what get bored very quickly. Colored... Monotone everything have the same sound.. It sound magical at first but after two months.. .. Eventually... The most natural sounding one is the one is going to stay longest in your sistem. You hear sadness. Bad times. Good times. Happyness and excitement. Another one happy all the time.. Just my experiences... But if you have both.. Even happier lolol.
Since it's diy.... Just hoarde it.. It's cheap compared to buying from factory ..hi end at a fraction. i always find different way and mood of enjoying it
My humble 2 cents
Hi manniraj
There is a possibility that you may not have selected the good amp to build. It is difficult for me to know exactly your sound preference and that is why I suggest peoples to contact me by message to discuss about that and also the rest of your audio gear in order to know if the USSA amp is a good candidate for you. But even then it is difficult....
There is at least one member who have built both USSA5 and USSA3 amps and prefers the USSA3. See here:
Post your Solid State pics here.
So in case, the input cap (or non-input cap) and the breakin is not sufficient to bring the USSA5 amp to your expectations then you can consider converting your USSA5 boards into USSA3....
Otherwise you can sell your USSA5 boards on this forum ....
It is possible that your M2X is the amp perfectly fit for you.
Fab
Hello Fab, I have replaced the WIMA MKS2 cap with a Mundorf Evo yesterday and did a short listen as it was very late into the night. I will be doing some detailed listening today but so far it sounds good. I did not want to take risk of not having this cap as I keep visiting my friends and there preamp not having a cap in one of there preamps is one of the risky. Hence will be having this cap. Also will try to get the Jantzen Alumen cap as well down the line to see which one keeps me happy in my setup.
Sorry I think I did not put my views the way I intended and in no way I said like the amp is bad. My only other amplifier that I was listening to so far was M2x and hence my comparison. But I think I may have jumped the gun here as the M2x had put in more than 200 hrs being used continuously for more than an year. The USSA5 may not be more than 10 hrs. So I will reserve my comments here.
But one of the observations that my wife did listening to the USSA5 yesterday after the cap replacement is that it does bring out every instrument sound perfectly which I think we missed to hearing/observing on M2x or any other amp in my setup. Its a very revealing amplifier that is for sure as bad recording or MP3 sounds bad but good quality FLACs/WAVs sound with a very deep sound stage. May be its growing on me as so far I did not wanted to go back to M2x and that amp is packed and kept aside
By the way I am planning to build the mono blocs with USSA5 as it deserves it. I think I have not seen such a detailed documentation for any of the amps available for the DIY community. I am not from a electronics background so I just follow the build guides and with limited knowledge try to debug. But your documentation is just awesome for any new comer to the DIY world.
Thanks again
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Lol that's why audiophile diyer is fun right?
When it's too revealing. Rubbish in and out effect comes in.. So need to adjust the cap.. Try a More forgiving cap like ecq or mkc and mp3 will sound better or.... Look upstream.. Something can be improved..
I'm running couple free.the most revealing way.. No problem with mp3 or low res... But I adjusted something in the dac..or I can also find a more suitable cable. Usually there is something not right there. Maybe silver cables or silver solder not good etc or too high end caps to sound thin out ..
Also don't do anything until the sound doesn't really change much.. Be careful you will be on a wild goose chase.. I normally do the final change after few months.
Happy to see another excited diyer
When it's too revealing. Rubbish in and out effect comes in.. So need to adjust the cap.. Try a More forgiving cap like ecq or mkc and mp3 will sound better or.... Look upstream.. Something can be improved..
I'm running couple free.the most revealing way.. No problem with mp3 or low res... But I adjusted something in the dac..or I can also find a more suitable cable. Usually there is something not right there. Maybe silver cables or silver solder not good etc or too high end caps to sound thin out ..
Also don't do anything until the sound doesn't really change much.. Be careful you will be on a wild goose chase.. I normally do the final change after few months.
Happy to see another excited diyer
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Hello Fab, I have replaced the WIMA MKS2 cap with a Mundorf Evo yesterday and did a short listen as it was very late into the night. I will be doing some detailed listening today but so far it sounds good. I did not want to take risk of not having this cap as I keep visiting my friends and there preamp not having a cap in one of there preamps is one of the risky. Hence will be having this cap. Also will try to get the Jantzen Alumen cap as well down the line to see which one keeps me happy in my setup.
Sorry I think I did not put my views the way I intended and in no way I said like the amp is bad. My only other amplifier that I was listening to so far was M2x and hence my comparison. But I think I may have jumped the gun here as the M2x had put in more than 200 hrs being used continuously for more than an year. The USSA5 may not be more than 10 hrs. So I will reserve my comments here.
But one of the observations that my wife did listening to the USSA5 yesterday after the cap replacement is that it does bring out every instrument sound perfectly which I think we missed to hearing/observing on M2x or any other amp in my setup. Its a very revealing amplifier that is for sure as bad recording or MP3 sounds bad but good quality FLACs/WAVs sound with a very deep sound stage. May be its growing on me as so far I did not wanted to go back to M2x and that amp is packed and kept aside
By the way I am planning to build the mono blocs with USSA5 as it deserves it. I think I have not seen such a detailed documentation for any of the amps available for the DIY community. I am not from a electronics background so I just follow the build guides and with limited knowledge try to debug. But your documentation is just awesome for any new comer to the DIY world.
Thanks again
Good. Keep trying other caps. Plus, I want you to flip either the speaker connection polarity or the or the source to the amp. Tell us what you hear when you do. Obviously the speaker connections are the easiest.
Cheers,
Greg
Thanks Greg, yes with Korg B1 I always reverse the polarity at the speakers. I have been listening like this even with M2x as well. I like this way compared to the right polarity. I think the amplifier is growing on me now after I replaced the WIMA with the Mundorf Evo cap. The amp now sounds very lively and a deep sound stage. Once this virus effect and regular movement starts planning to get the Jantzen Alumina cap. Till then will use the Mundorf and keep burning in and listen to this great amplifier and true to all the reviews it does make entire sound stage come alive and because of this garbage in and garbage out
Now I am only playing FLAC/WAV/DSD/HD songs of my collection and occasionally my local Spotify for any rare to find local music.I have a simple question/clarification on the speaker protection board in this amp. Currently I am using a single stereo protection board and the way I have connected is as below:
- A separate single EI core transformer rated 0-12v@1A is used to power the speaker protection board.
- I have taken the speaker out from each of the amp board and connected to the speaker in of the protection board.
- Taken the speaker out from the protection board goes to the speaker binding post hot side.
- I then connected the PSU ground from the Psu board to the ground of the speaker binding post. Each psu board ground individually for each channel.
This way the amp is absolutely silent and hum free even though I have placed the protection board over the PSU caps. I know this is sacrilege but this is a temporary cabinet and trying to make mono blocs so haven't mounted any boards on the bottom plate except the amp boards on the heat sinks.
Now I have a pair of mono protection boards. So when I power these 2 with 2 pairs of wires from the single EI core transformer and the same connections of speaker outputs as listed above, the amp hums horribly. Any suggestions on how do I use the pair of mono protection boards?
Should I power each mono protection board with a separate transformer? Or can I connect the speaker grounds together between the channels?
Thanks
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Thanks Greg, yes with Korg B1 I always reverse the polarity at the speakers. I have been listening like this even with M2x as well. I like this way compared to the right polarity. I think the amplifier is growing on me now after I replaced the WIMA with the Mundorf Evo cap. The amp now sounds very lively and a deep sound stage. Once this virus effect and regular movement starts planning to get the Jantzen Alumina cap. Till then will use the Mundorf and keep burning in and listen to this great amplifier and true to all the reviews it does make entire sound stage come alive and because of this garbage in and garbage out
I have a simple question/clarification on the speaker protection board in this amp. Currently I am using a single stereo protection board and the way I have connected is as below:
- A separate single EI core transformer rated 0-12v@1A is used to power the speaker protection board.
- I have taken the speaker out from each of the amp board and connected to the speaker in of the protection board.
- Taken the speaker out from the protection board goes to the speaker binding post hot side.
- I then connected the PSU ground from the Psu board to the ground of the speaker binding post. Each psu board ground individually for each channel.
This way the amp is absolutely silent and hum free even though I have placed the protection board over the PSU caps. I know this is sacrilege but this is a temporary cabinet and trying to make mono blocs so haven't mounted any boards on the bottom plate except the amp boards on the heat sinks.
Now I have a pair of mono protection boards. So when I power these 2 with 2 pairs of wires from the single EI core transformer and the same connections of speaker outputs as listed above, the amp hums horribly. Any suggestions on how do I use the pair of mono protection boards?
Should I power each mono protection board with a separate transformer? Or can I connect the speaker grounds together between the channels?
Thanks
Are you running separate supplies for the amp boards? If so, then yes, you are creating a loop. There’s hum from loops created between components and loops created within components or designs. You have the latter.
Personally, I always use separate supplies with separate star grounds, or I use a single supply setup with a single star ground scheme for everything.
Back to how the amp sounds, everything in the chain can greatly effect brightness, including software. Windows 10, with a bunch of tweaks was okay, but Linux was harsh. Like I said, I’m running a boutique (can’t believe it myself that I have something boutique) Linux OS for music. It’s the smoothest I’ve ever heard my rig sound.
As far as caps go, either neutral to warm is what you want with this amp. Not because the amp is harsh, it’s just very accurate and your source is harsh. So, just has been already said here, harshness in, harshness out. PIO caps are good at taming that down.
Keep going and it will get there.
It’s an epic amplifier.
Cheers,
Greg
I think I forgot to mention that I use 2 independent transformers with 2 independent CRC psu boards to power the amp boards. My issue of hum is only when I use 2 independent mono protection boards instead of the stereo protection board. So with a pair of transformers + pair of CRC psu boards + a single stereo protection board which is powered by an independent EI core transformer the amp is absolutely dead silent.
The hum comes only when in the above setup I change the single stereo protection board with 2 independent mono protection boards powered by a single EI core transformer.
So my question was if I power each mono protection board by a different transformer will I be able to get rid of the ground loop hum and should work similar to the single stereo protection module?
Thanks
The hum comes only when in the above setup I change the single stereo protection board with 2 independent mono protection boards powered by a single EI core transformer.
So my question was if I power each mono protection board by a different transformer will I be able to get rid of the ground loop hum and should work similar to the single stereo protection module?
Thanks
And what do you think which caps fit in this category of neutral to warm, any suggestions please? PIO yes I have used in my EAR 984p clone and they were good as coupling caps.
Thanks
Correct. You are creating a loop between the two separate supplies by tying the two protection boards together with the one supply. The protection and amp supplies on one channel need to be star grounded together, and separated from the other channel's star and supply grounds: each channel totally separated.
Cheers,
Greg
Is that the 834 integrated? Mundorf MCap EVO Aluminum Oil Capacitor Cap are warm, with good detail and affordable.
Cheers,
Greg