USSA-5 Build with Review

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AnthonyA

Member
Joined 2017
pinnocchio said:
Yes, the Mundorf EVO are good caps, but honestly, first try the Panasonic dipped (brownish red) that Fab suggest or the one Vunce suggest, they're not expensive. See if you like them and then make the jump to an exotic type cap afterwards if you're not 100% satisfied with these.

Do
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That's
Panasonic ecq...mkt. Very safe choice and cheap.. Great bass on that one..I also agree... With Dominic, always go for good enough. Since it's already been tested as well

If your front end is good enough quality and no DC...try Jumper them. It might be the best
 
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manniraj

Member
Joined 2012
fab said:
USSA3 and 5 require 3.3uF or 4.7uF because of 22k input stage impedance. FSSA has 100k input stage impedance thus 4 to 5 times less input capacitance than USSA amps for same low frequency roll off.
Fab
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Thanks Fab, my Mundorf Evo 4.7uF are on their way and hopefully I should be able to put them to use by this weekend and have a listen :)

So far I found the amp to be very clinical and not as sweet as M2x, but with better bass and instrument separation. Still in burning period and also hopefully with the change in the cap it should be back in business for me.
 
ggetzoff

ggetzoff

Member
Joined 2004
manniraj said:
Thanks Fab, my Mundorf Evo 4.7uF are on their way and hopefully I should be able to put them to use by this weekend and have a listen :)

So far I found the amp to be very clinical and not as sweet as M2x, but with better bass and instrument separation. Still in burning period and also hopefully with the change in the cap it should be back in business for me.
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How many hours do you have on it? It won’t ever be as warm as your M2x, but, if you read my review (this thread) you see that I use a tube dac, which gives the amp a really rich and smooth sound. OTOH, it is my go to amp for orchestral works, it digs deep into the recording, fleshing out and illuminating a lot of detail, that my SE amps cannot.

Give the amp at least 100 hours.

Cheers,

Greg
 
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meanie

Member
Joined 2018
ggetzoff said:
How many hours do you have on it? It won’t ever be as warm as your M2x, but, if you read my review (this thread) you see that I use a tube dac, which gives the amp a really rich and smooth sound. OTOH, it is my go to amp for orchestral works, it digs deep into the recording, fleshing out and illuminating a lot of detail, that my SE amps cannot.

Give the amp at least 100 hours.

Cheers,

Greg
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I second this....
So far this is the most detail power amp in my DIY collection, I listen to it every day while I work.
You may want to crank up the bias after burning in...
Mine runs really hot, but I don't care!
It is so enjoyable.
 
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manniraj

Member
Joined 2012
ggetzoff said:
How many hours do you have on it? It won’t ever be as warm as your M2x, but, if you read my review (this thread) you see that I use a tube dac, which gives the amp a really rich and smooth sound. OTOH, it is my go to amp for orchestral works, it digs deep into the recording, fleshing out and illuminating a lot of detail, that my SE amps cannot.

Give the amp at least 100 hours.

Cheers,

Greg
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Thanks Greg/meanie, I think I would have put in around 9-10 hrs of playback on this amp so far. But I have the WIMA MKS2 input cap and going to change to the Mundorf Evo. Fab also suggested to give it at least 30-50 hrs of burn-in and so far it seems to be good. I am going to have patience and give it sometime before I make the final decision.
 
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manniraj

Member
Joined 2012
daanve said:
As suggested in another thread, you might as well check if your source equipment is output DC free (because of some output capacitor in a DAC or so...).
When so, you could omit the input capacitor (the best capacitor is no capacitor at all....).
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I use the Korg B1 with the input being from Soekris R2R DAC via USB (Amanero i2s), Optical (through Google Chromecast) so I presume then I can omit this capacitor on the input side of the amp?
 
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AnthonyA

Member
Joined 2017
Measure with dmm output of your preamp dac.. Up to 0.2v dc is acceptable. Both side between signal and ground
Capacitor coupled... Usually no more DC or little but... If the coupling capacitor either one is busted it is DC and it will destroy stuffs.

When it was mention good source.. It's not just DC.

It's sound... Cause no capacitor becomes rubbish in rubbish out. Some case it's way better some case its way bad. You have to try
 
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