Over engineering
Well, this whole thread is an indulgence in over engineering. Unless you are switching more than a KW, a push-push switch with zero uPs or relays is the most efficient solution.
Most of DIYA is about the journey and not the destination. Most people these days listen to mp3 on their 2.1 computer speakers and bluetooth. I have an old stereo connected to a computer and TV in one bedroom, but the 6" speakers have no bass compared to my cheap Logitech 2.1 computer speakers. Even though I'm retired, I still have more important things to do.
https://www.ckswitches.com/media/1409/ne18.pdf
Well, this whole thread is an indulgence in over engineering. Unless you are switching more than a KW, a push-push switch with zero uPs or relays is the most efficient solution.
Most of DIYA is about the journey and not the destination. Most people these days listen to mp3 on their 2.1 computer speakers and bluetooth. I have an old stereo connected to a computer and TV in one bedroom, but the 6" speakers have no bass compared to my cheap Logitech 2.1 computer speakers. Even though I'm retired, I still have more important things to do.
https://www.ckswitches.com/media/1409/ne18.pdf
Well, this is a project to allow the use of temporary switches of (probably) low current handling characteristics to switch mains. Using a dedicated latching switch is a far better solution... unless you somehow have need of a 12V PSU of max 3W also, then this probably has an added benefit.
If you just want a mains switch, please, don't build this. For sure!
If you just want a mains switch, please, don't build this. For sure!
Interesting read and journey there Rafa. Congrats on a successful project!
Two things:
Chassis/PE connected metal standoffs were mentioned in relation to clearance and creepage; any reason to not just use nylon standoffs where chassis/PE isn't required on the board, while still adhering to the required clearance and creepage distance of course? I think of this as 'belt and suspenders'
I'm pretty sure Mark Johnson has no problem with his name being on the PCB but not sure about Rod Elliott? I've seen designers frown upon their name being on a PCB of a design derived from their work. Could be cool and all, and maybe you've cleared it with him but might be something to consider.
Two things:
Chassis/PE connected metal standoffs were mentioned in relation to clearance and creepage; any reason to not just use nylon standoffs where chassis/PE isn't required on the board, while still adhering to the required clearance and creepage distance of course? I think of this as 'belt and suspenders'
I'm pretty sure Mark Johnson has no problem with his name being on the PCB but not sure about Rod Elliott? I've seen designers frown upon their name being on a PCB of a design derived from their work. Could be cool and all, and maybe you've cleared it with him but might be something to consider.
Thanks Cherik!
- Regarding Nylon standoffs, if you go to post #108, I'm actually using those and planning to use in the final build. So yeah, I think it's a valid approach. The "PE" corner is the only one actually connected to anything, so depending on the grounding pattern, it could be used with a metallic standoff to create a chassis connection, or with a nylon standoff and use the dedicated screw on the euroblock, whatever fits the distribution better.
- I wrote to Rod Elliot before even starting the project, as I knew I was going to need a lot of help from the community, and I wanted to have his permission before even starting, otherwise I would have ended up with very little info to share. In there, I mentioned I would credit him on the PCB boards and his reply did not specifically say "not to do that", but it didn't actually say: "sure go ahead and print my name", either. So yeah, I decided to assume that he would have said "please don't" rather than saying: "yes, please do". Maybe it was too liberal on my end to assume that and I should get back to him.
Thanks for the comments.
- Regarding Nylon standoffs, if you go to post #108, I'm actually using those and planning to use in the final build. So yeah, I think it's a valid approach. The "PE" corner is the only one actually connected to anything, so depending on the grounding pattern, it could be used with a metallic standoff to create a chassis connection, or with a nylon standoff and use the dedicated screw on the euroblock, whatever fits the distribution better.
- I wrote to Rod Elliot before even starting the project, as I knew I was going to need a lot of help from the community, and I wanted to have his permission before even starting, otherwise I would have ended up with very little info to share. In there, I mentioned I would credit him on the PCB boards and his reply did not specifically say "not to do that", but it didn't actually say: "sure go ahead and print my name", either. So yeah, I decided to assume that he would have said "please don't" rather than saying: "yes, please do". Maybe it was too liberal on my end to assume that and I should get back to him.
Thanks for the comments.
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Hello
Just ordered some PCBs for this (build just started)
quick question. when the unit is 1st powered up does it default to the off state?
regards
Just ordered some PCBs for this (build just started)
quick question. when the unit is 1st powered up does it default to the off state?
regards
