It is just a F5. But with the latest diyaudiostore boards. v3. F5 – diyAudio Store
so in that case its an F5 not an F5 V3. I don't see the relevance of the board revision and it adds confusion.
V3 has wider traces to the outputs, different arrangement of components, and different component numbering. So important to differentiate.
Had a little free time today so I managed to get most of the Dale resistors mounted.
I would like to thank 6L6 for his pictorial guide, that was a big help, hats off to you sir.
Had to use my readers and a magnifying glass to read the values.
Verify, verify, verify, install.
So I can officially say I have started anyway.
I can not wait to hear this amp, already have a whole bunch of albums lined up.
Thanks to all of you guys who have given me guidance
I would like to thank 6L6 for his pictorial guide, that was a big help, hats off to you sir.
Had to use my readers and a magnifying glass to read the values.
Verify, verify, verify, install.
So I can officially say I have started anyway.
I can not wait to hear this amp, already have a whole bunch of albums lined up.
Thanks to all of you guys who have given me guidance
Managed to get the two channel boards almost finished, save the thermal resistors ,the LED and its resistor.
So now onto the PSU, I have both Nichicon and Vishay 22000UF caps.
493-8646-ND Nichicon rated at 5000 hrs or 4645PHBK-ND Vishay rated at 2000 hrs.
Just wondering from anyone who has ventured down this path before me.
Thanks, Greg
So now onto the PSU, I have both Nichicon and Vishay 22000UF caps.
493-8646-ND Nichicon rated at 5000 hrs or 4645PHBK-ND Vishay rated at 2000 hrs.
Just wondering from anyone who has ventured down this path before me.
Thanks, Greg
Attachments
Just to be clear, I meant the 2 single channel boards.
Ran out of solder doing the jumpers on the PSU and the only solder I can get locally is plumbing solder, so I had to order some online.
Anyway, the capacitor question is based on my total lack of knowledge and confusion as far as ripple current ratings on the data sheets.
My question is, if you had both in your hand, what would you do?
Ran out of solder doing the jumpers on the PSU and the only solder I can get locally is plumbing solder, so I had to order some online.
Anyway, the capacitor question is based on my total lack of knowledge and confusion as far as ripple current ratings on the data sheets.
My question is, if you had both in your hand, what would you do?
Either cap will do a fantastic job. You could flip a coin. Since both are rated 105 degC, I’d personally go for the longer life rating.
Thank you sir, Nichicons it isEither cap will do a fantastic job. You could flip a coin. Since both are rated 105 degC, I’d personally go for the longer life rating.
I was going through things I need to order.
The chassis kit on the store page lists 20 standoffs in the kit, 16 for the two amplifier boards, 4 extra.
I would like to source at least 4 more for the PSU, just wondering if anyone knows the actual height of the standoffs so I can order a few more.
Thanks, Greg
The chassis kit on the store page lists 20 standoffs in the kit, 16 for the two amplifier boards, 4 extra.
I would like to source at least 4 more for the PSU, just wondering if anyone knows the actual height of the standoffs so I can order a few more.
Thanks, Greg
M3, 5mm male and 5mm female
Something like this would be useful for future projects as well -
https://www.amazon.com/HVAZI-210pcs...=m3+standoff&qid=1567472469&s=gateway&sr=8-19
Something like this would be useful for future projects as well -
https://www.amazon.com/HVAZI-210pcs...=m3+standoff&qid=1567472469&s=gateway&sr=8-19
I was going through things I need to order.
The chassis kit on the store page lists 20 standoffs in the kit, 16 for the two amplifier boards, 4 extra.
I would like to source at least 4 more for the PSU, just wondering if anyone knows the actual height of the standoffs so I can order a few more.
Thanks, Greg
1/2 to 3/4" is fine.
M3, 5mm male and 5mm female
Something like this would be useful for future projects as well -
https://www.amazon.com/HVAZI-210pcs...=m3+standoff&qid=1567472469&s=gateway&sr=8-19
That works, better than paying almost 2 bucks each with MC.
Thanks, appreciated
I am planning on stuffing my PSU board tomorrow.
I was organizing my parts and when I came across the small caps for R17 and R18 and the input snubbers, I thought "you better look at them for polarity" so I dont insert them wrong.
Went on Digikey and could not find anything on the data sheets.
Am I missing something?
I was organizing my parts and when I came across the small caps for R17 and R18 and the input snubbers, I thought "you better look at them for polarity" so I dont insert them wrong.
Went on Digikey and could not find anything on the data sheets.
Am I missing something?
The small film capacitors are not polar. Orientation doesn’t matter.
Leave the output snubber (R11 R12 C17 C18) empty.
Leave the output snubber (R11 R12 C17 C18) empty.
Last edited:
Wait, what?
All of those are not needed?
And you are running them without input snubbers and resistors also?
Not second guessing you, just asking so I get this right the first time.
I know you have a lot more experience, I have looked at all of your builds for information to help me along and appreciate your help
Thanks, Greg
All of those are not needed?
And you are running them without input snubbers and resistors also?
Not second guessing you, just asking so I get this right the first time.
I know you have a lot more experience, I have looked at all of your builds for information to help me along and appreciate your help
Thanks, Greg
The standard FW power supply doesn't use them. For example, please see schematics
on the past page here:
http://www.firstwatt.com/pdf/prod_f5_man.pdf
You can use that as a guide.
on the past page here:
http://www.firstwatt.com/pdf/prod_f5_man.pdf
You can use that as a guide.
Thanks Dennis, I have that schematic.
I guess I took the BOM on the DIY website as a latest and greatest kind of thing.
I am beginning to understand now it has options for "boys with better toys" than I have.
Would prefer to build it close to the original design anyway, and if you couldn't tell this is my first venture at building a class A.
Have built a boatload of speakers over the years.
Also built to date, 27 turntables, 25 of which are being used somewhere.
Never had anybody want to send one back.
Those things are only supposed to be built with alien intervention and a little fairy dust sprinkled in, well if you believe the hype anyway.
So that is what brought me here.
My turntable, speakers and what I am sure is a great amp all built by my hands.
When I hear those things playing together, I can take something off my bucket list.
Sorry if my questions may seem naive, this is a little new for my.
Thanks, Greg
I guess I took the BOM on the DIY website as a latest and greatest kind of thing.
I am beginning to understand now it has options for "boys with better toys" than I have.
Would prefer to build it close to the original design anyway, and if you couldn't tell this is my first venture at building a class A.
Have built a boatload of speakers over the years.
Also built to date, 27 turntables, 25 of which are being used somewhere.
Never had anybody want to send one back.
Those things are only supposed to be built with alien intervention and a little fairy dust sprinkled in, well if you believe the hype anyway.
So that is what brought me here.
My turntable, speakers and what I am sure is a great amp all built by my hands.
When I hear those things playing together, I can take something off my bucket list.
Sorry if my questions may seem naive, this is a little new for my.
Thanks, Greg
- Home
- Amplifiers
- Pass Labs
- F5 V3