Solder the 0.033uF capacitor first. If you can't successfully solder the 0.0062uF on top, you're kinda close (-20%) anyway.
UES1C221MPM1TD Nichicon | Mouser
This is the one I replaced the one in the BOM with. Only difference I could discern was this one is rated for 16V instead of 10V. A nice bright green color.
I thought it would be a reasonable replacement.
Great idea! The diameters are identical, which is what you need to make it fit on the PCB. The 16V cap is taller but we don't care.
Great to learn a bit about the possible substitutions. There's a clear advantage for those that know which variables are the ones that are important and which are not. Hope to learn more about that.
Also, I sadly found out that, even if you purchase in the US Mouser store, if your shipment location is not within the US, they change availability and option to buy online or not. That was the case with the elusive red leds. They are available to ship into the US, but purchasing in the US store and shipping to Ecuador, they change to "not able to buy online". Thought you folks may want to know.
On a different issue, and perhaps opening a can of worms , most caps list a life of 1000 to 3000 hours. That is 40 days. What happens after that? If you are the type that leaves the unit on all the time (obviously not wise for Class A amps, but some could ), are you really going past the component's life expectancy in a few days?
Thanks for any insight, best regards,
Rafa.
Also, I sadly found out that, even if you purchase in the US Mouser store, if your shipment location is not within the US, they change availability and option to buy online or not. That was the case with the elusive red leds. They are available to ship into the US, but purchasing in the US store and shipping to Ecuador, they change to "not able to buy online". Thought you folks may want to know.
On a different issue, and perhaps opening a can of worms
, most caps list a life of 1000 to 3000 hours. That is 40 days. What happens after that? If you are the type that leaves the unit on all the time (obviously not wise for Class A amps, but some could ), are you really going past the component's life expectancy in a few days?Thanks for any insight, best regards,
Rafa.
These life hours are at the rated temperature that the cap is -hopefully- never going to experience. At lower temperatures life increases exponentially.
EDIT: Rafa, it'd be awesome if you could share your project on Mouser. FWIW I believe we should keep BOM links available. At least personally the worse part of a project is shopping on Mouser, few things are less exciting than that. lol
EDIT: Rafa, it'd be awesome if you could share your project on Mouser. FWIW I believe we should keep BOM links available. At least personally the worse part of a project is shopping on Mouser, few things are less exciting than that. lol
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Download this pdf to your computer and save it somewhere that you can find it again.
Read the entire document. It will make you a better circuit designer.
Go back and re-read pages 13 and 14. Pay attention to the exponential equation on page 14. Plug in some numerical values which represent your operating scenarios. What results do you get?
Read the entire document. It will make you a better circuit designer.
Go back and re-read pages 13 and 14. Pay attention to the exponential equation on page 14. Plug in some numerical values which represent your operating scenarios. What results do you get?
Thanks for the info and the literature! I'll read it and soak in as much as possible. Thanks!!
GASCo, I think that sharing would be more useful to me than what it would be to others, as people could comment on the choices and propose changes. My fear is that someone would just go and buy the project and there would be obvious errors or wrongly replaced components!
Also, I must note that sometimes if the BOM calls for something like 0R to 100R, I would put into the project a 1R, a 10R and a 100R to see which works best. Also, for impossible-to-replace-locally components as the 0R47 3W resistors, I sometimes put the Panasonic versions and then some of the Wirewound Resistors that were commented upon earlier on this thread. Some components I add more of just in case... so I'm really not sure how useful they would be!
At any rate, here they are (everything is 1 channel, for a full Amp you would need to order 2 of each):
DISCLAIMER! DO NOT BUY THESE PROJECTS unless you really know what you are doing. I'm below-noob on DIY. These projects are more for others to help me rather than for me to put out a one-click-buy project. These are NOT finished projects! Please, use with caution!
Obviously, comments and suggestions are more than welcome!!!
GASCo, I think that sharing would be more useful to me than what it would be to others, as people could comment on the choices and propose changes. My fear is that someone would just go and buy the project and there would be obvious errors or wrongly replaced components!
Also, I must note that sometimes if the BOM calls for something like 0R to 100R, I would put into the project a 1R, a 10R and a 100R to see which works best. Also, for impossible-to-replace-locally components as the 0R47 3W resistors, I sometimes put the Panasonic versions and then some of the Wirewound Resistors that were commented upon earlier on this thread. Some components I add more of just in case... so I'm really not sure how useful they would be!
At any rate, here they are (everything is 1 channel, for a full Amp you would need to order 2 of each):
- M2x AmpBoard
- M2x Ishikawa
- M2x Austin
- M2x Mountain View
- M2x Norwood (incomplete!!!!)
- M2x Tucson
DISCLAIMER! DO NOT BUY THESE PROJECTS unless you really know what you are doing. I'm below-noob on DIY. These projects are more for others to help me rather than for me to put out a one-click-buy project. These are NOT finished projects! Please, use with caution!
Obviously, comments and suggestions are more than welcome!!!
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Most likely that particular LED supplier/importer has only license to sell in the US. Representation of the brand elsewhere must be done by another company. If that's the case, no other store will ship it either.
Rafa, I'd be happy to proxy that for you in case you're interested. Just drop me a PM and I can give you my address. I can gather different shipments and redirect to you in a single box if you want.
Thanks for the project sharing, Rafa! It is a great starting point already and really I don't think anybody gets it right in one purchase from day one anyway!
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Actually no, because... ideally... I need to purchase everything from a single supplier in a single purchase, as each shipment costs $35 + import taxes and fees, no matter what you send. So... "Oh, I forgot 1 resistor!" Yeap, that $0.20 resistor costs "only" $40.20 delivered to my door.
So, you get the picture... its not like: "Ok, this one from Mouser, this other part from Digikey, this other is better at Amazon... Ok, all done!".Which brings me to this generous offer:
Thank you so much! This community really is all about sharing, isn't it? I have seen similar communities that preach the same ideals but, in the end, they actually don't live up to them. Here everyone is actually THAT nice when it comes to helping others! Thanks! Really humbled by your offer.
As it turns out, another member also addressed me with this same offer yesterday when I was asking about replacements. Generosity really is found aplenty here on DIY.
Thanks again! If ever there comes need for it, I would take you up on the offer... though I prefer not to bother others with my issues and geographic complications. Thanks again!
Rafa.
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Pass DIY Addict
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Rafa, given your import tax structure, it *MAY* be advantageous to you to round all component quantities up to the nearest unit of 10 or 20 when you purchase. Pass Labs designs are well known for (re)using "standard" parts such as 220uF caps or 220R resistors. Certain parts just keep showing up over and over... The last time I ordered parts, I think I picked up 20 extra of certain parts, just to have some on hand. Some small diodes cost $0.05 each - so I ordered 100 of them. With caps, you often get price breaks when you cross units of 10, 20, or 25. It makes the first purchase cost more, but saves you money the next time around. Plus, you start to grow a small collection of parts that makes future experimentation easier: What happens if I change bias level? What happens if I change XYZ? If you can, just order more and tuck them away for that "next project" that we both know is going to happen...
Indeed, this is a nice place to be.
Agreed, and here's what I've been doing because of backorders or unavailable items:
Open a shopping cart in multiple (Mouser and DigiKey, etc) sites at the same time. Copy your Mouser P/N from the BOM and paste it into Mouser's search bar. From the resulting product page, copy the MFR's P/N and paste it into DigiKey's search bar. Add the item to both shopping carts. I also paste the DigiKey P/N on the BOM spreadsheet for future reference.
When you're done you have at least two choices for your entire order in about the same amount of time as one. Hopefully at least one of them will have everything you need in one shipment.
Actually no, because... ideally... I need to purchase everything from a single supplier in a single purchase, as each shipment costs $35 + import taxes and fees, no matter what you send. So... "Oh, I forgot 1 resistor!" Yeap, that $0.20 resistor costs "only" $40.20 delivered to my door.
Agreed, and here's what I've been doing because of backorders or unavailable items:
Open a shopping cart in multiple (Mouser and DigiKey, etc) sites at the same time. Copy your Mouser P/N from the BOM and paste it into Mouser's search bar. From the resulting product page, copy the MFR's P/N and paste it into DigiKey's search bar. Add the item to both shopping carts. I also paste the DigiKey P/N on the BOM spreadsheet for future reference.
When you're done you have at least two choices for your entire order in about the same amount of time as one. Hopefully at least one of them will have everything you need in one shipment.
