@birdbox Someone got back to me from the DIY store. Apparently they should have ordered the following fuse drawer, which will make the dual-fuse Schurter PEM useable with a single fuse. One is being sent.
https://www.digikey.com/en/products.../641123?s=N4IgTCBcDaICwA4BsBaMBGdqByAREAugL5A
https://www.digikey.com/en/products.../641123?s=N4IgTCBcDaICwA4BsBaMBGdqByAREAugL5A
Thanks Timothy for the update. I emailed the store as well to share that it's likely not a one off error if it happened to both of us, and all the current kits should probably be checked. Glad you have the right part en route to you now. I'm sure the same will go for me in the near future.
Not to mention your post ensures all the folks who have got recent Whammy kits, or will be buying kits soon, will be aware of the issue and maybe even avoid it.
Not to mention your post ensures all the folks who have got recent Whammy kits, or will be buying kits soon, will be aware of the issue and maybe even avoid it.
I built couple of these wonderful headphone amps and using them with joy. I also like use one of them as a pre-amp occasionally. I know there are some discussions on this subject here but I can't seem to pinpoint. Can someone direct me to those posts (post numbers, etc.).
Appreciate the help.
Appreciate the help.
Thank you to everyone who gave feedback about the PEM issue.
I visited the warehouse and checked the kits on shelf, and determined that a little less than half the remaining WHAMMY kits have PEM DD12.1121.111 ("One Amp, Screw A, 2 pole fuseholder, 2 pole line switch") instead of DD12.4111.111 ("4 Amp, Screw A, 1 pole fuseholder, 2 pole line switch").
After consulting our supplier, it turns out Digikey sent a number of 1121s in the order of 4111s.
The most practical solution to remedy the issue is to obtain one Schurter 4301.1413 "Fingergrip, 2 pole fuseholder, shorting bar on neutral side" (Digikey / Mouser). Any customer who has received a kit containing a PEM labelled DD12.1121.111 is welcome to either obtain said part themselves and contact the helpdesk for a refund of the part value, or contact the helpdesk and we will arrange for the 4301.1413 fuseholder to be shipped out to you at no cost to you.
All kits containing PEM DD12.1121.111 have been identified and set aside at the warehouse and will be updated with the 4301.1413 fuseholder. All customers who purchased a WHAMMY from this batch will be contacted and asked to check they have the correct PEM and if not we will ship a replacement fuseholder.
Thank you for your understanding.
I visited the warehouse and checked the kits on shelf, and determined that a little less than half the remaining WHAMMY kits have PEM DD12.1121.111 ("One Amp, Screw A, 2 pole fuseholder, 2 pole line switch") instead of DD12.4111.111 ("4 Amp, Screw A, 1 pole fuseholder, 2 pole line switch").
After consulting our supplier, it turns out Digikey sent a number of 1121s in the order of 4111s.
The most practical solution to remedy the issue is to obtain one Schurter 4301.1413 "Fingergrip, 2 pole fuseholder, shorting bar on neutral side" (Digikey / Mouser). Any customer who has received a kit containing a PEM labelled DD12.1121.111 is welcome to either obtain said part themselves and contact the helpdesk for a refund of the part value, or contact the helpdesk and we will arrange for the 4301.1413 fuseholder to be shipped out to you at no cost to you.
All kits containing PEM DD12.1121.111 have been identified and set aside at the warehouse and will be updated with the 4301.1413 fuseholder. All customers who purchased a WHAMMY from this batch will be contacted and asked to check they have the correct PEM and if not we will ship a replacement fuseholder.
Thank you for your understanding.
I finished a Whammy about a month ago and have been very pleased with it. Thanks to everyone who put this project together. I'm using it as a pre-amp for our main music system which consists of 2 Parasound A52 amps and Linkwitz L521.4 speakers. The Whammy replaces a Grace Design M920 that I used at times.
I have one little project left on the Whammy and that is to install an on/off display Led and replace the stock RC4580 opamp with a Burson V6 livid or a V7 pro. In reading through the forums I have read of quite a few people who have used the V6 and been happy with it. Probably since it hasn't been out that long I haven't found anyone using the V7. Is there anyone here who has used the V7 yet and has a comment as to how it sounds? I messaged with Burson and they highly recommend the 7 over the 6. One thing bothers me though and that is the fact that the 7 runs quite a bit hotter than the 6.
I have one little project left on the Whammy and that is to install an on/off display Led and replace the stock RC4580 opamp with a Burson V6 livid or a V7 pro. In reading through the forums I have read of quite a few people who have used the V6 and been happy with it. Probably since it hasn't been out that long I haven't found anyone using the V7. Is there anyone here who has used the V7 yet and has a comment as to how it sounds? I messaged with Burson and they highly recommend the 7 over the 6. One thing bothers me though and that is the fact that the 7 runs quite a bit hotter than the 6.
I decided to build one of these. Thanks to Wayne and the DIY experts.
My build includes my own pot and some other features that are not quite complete. I use a Hammond enclosure.
I was wondering if anyone has had noise issues? I immediately noticed a high level of noise thru my desk speakers. I'm using it in "preamp mode", switched by the phono jack. My amp has a gain of about 30dB. I can't hear it thru headphones. I would characterize the noise as NOT frequency specific, though I'm sure there is plenty of 180Hz in there. By comparison, my BA2018 line stage is dead quiet in the same environment.
I started poking around. I wired the input ground and pot grounds directly to the 100Kohm resistors at the opamp inputs (see photo). The Whammy is now DEAD quiet. Am I the only one that has run into this issue?
The pot I use is a NOS 50Kohm audio taper REAL ALPS motorized pot. Currently the motor is not driven, but available. I have used this pot in several BA2018 linestage build and many retrofits to vintage preamps. It's solid. I think the pot is so good that for one of my BA2018 builds, I was not using the motor so I removed it to reduce the drag. Pot is very well balanced and very smooth.
Thanks for reading this far. I'll add more pics when my build is complete. Will hopefully include remote volume and switching of 3 inputs, including internal DAC.
My build includes my own pot and some other features that are not quite complete. I use a Hammond enclosure.
I was wondering if anyone has had noise issues? I immediately noticed a high level of noise thru my desk speakers. I'm using it in "preamp mode", switched by the phono jack. My amp has a gain of about 30dB. I can't hear it thru headphones. I would characterize the noise as NOT frequency specific, though I'm sure there is plenty of 180Hz in there. By comparison, my BA2018 line stage is dead quiet in the same environment.
I started poking around. I wired the input ground and pot grounds directly to the 100Kohm resistors at the opamp inputs (see photo). The Whammy is now DEAD quiet. Am I the only one that has run into this issue?
The pot I use is a NOS 50Kohm audio taper REAL ALPS motorized pot. Currently the motor is not driven, but available. I have used this pot in several BA2018 linestage build and many retrofits to vintage preamps. It's solid. I think the pot is so good that for one of my BA2018 builds, I was not using the motor so I removed it to reduce the drag. Pot is very well balanced and very smooth.
Thanks for reading this far. I'll add more pics when my build is complete. Will hopefully include remote volume and switching of 3 inputs, including internal DAC.
Hello all,
Been reading through this thread and enjoying everyone's build photos and troubleshooting threads.
Thank you DIYAudio and Wayne for putting together a great kit for such a reasonable price. I can't imagine the amount of work that has gone into all of the little details here. Very much appreciated!
Whammy is complete and sounds great! Almost perfect on the first try (more on that below). The sound signature with the stock OpAmp reminds me a lot of my old B&K gear, but these ears are getting old, and that stuff crapped out on me long ago, so take it with a grain of salt.
Quick question. Seems like there is something wrong with the chassis ground on mine. I get an audible hum (and some other noise) when I touch the chassis which is even worse on the volume pot. A quick test reveals that a grounding wire between the Alps POT body and the ground next to R39 seems to solve the problem. The hum is sensitive to volume and disappears completely at 0 AND full.
I have no idea how I would do this, as the POT doesn't appear to be something I could solder a wire to. I have read that some have grounded the pots, but I think those were no the stock ALPS.
Maybe there's another way to ground all of that? Maybe (nay likely), I've made a little wiring error somewhere.
Pics attached.
Been reading through this thread and enjoying everyone's build photos and troubleshooting threads.
Thank you DIYAudio and Wayne for putting together a great kit for such a reasonable price. I can't imagine the amount of work that has gone into all of the little details here. Very much appreciated!
Whammy is complete and sounds great! Almost perfect on the first try (more on that below). The sound signature with the stock OpAmp reminds me a lot of my old B&K gear, but these ears are getting old, and that stuff crapped out on me long ago, so take it with a grain of salt.
Quick question. Seems like there is something wrong with the chassis ground on mine. I get an audible hum (and some other noise) when I touch the chassis which is even worse on the volume pot. A quick test reveals that a grounding wire between the Alps POT body and the ground next to R39 seems to solve the problem. The hum is sensitive to volume and disappears completely at 0 AND full.
I have no idea how I would do this, as the POT doesn't appear to be something I could solder a wire to. I have read that some have grounded the pots, but I think those were no the stock ALPS.
Maybe there's another way to ground all of that? Maybe (nay likely), I've made a little wiring error somewhere.
Pics attached.
In my experience, this is common. Not so much at 0 but near full is something I see all the time with different preamps. It is in fact related to the pot chassis needing ground. You can see in my post just above at #5110, an orange/white wire going from the pot chassis to ground ...... however you are correct, it is a different pot with easy access to the chassis.
In the past I have used a flat very thin washer, soldered a wire to it, and placed it over the pot shaft, between the pot and the chassis, then connected the wire to ground. Not sure that is possible with you current build? Good Luck.