Upgrade's didn't work, fake OPA2134?

That sounds like a plan. I'm going to avoid using Amazon, Ebay now for the main parts. Like opamps, transformers.
Still getting my head round the things like, testing from the negative power rails, and virtual negative rails. I've bought a few books I'm reading...
Good at getting me to sleep, not much else at the moment.
 
If i'm doing it correctly, the voltage showing at the gnd is 0.064v @49.9hz. The LED blinks on fades off and the heat sinks get warm. Not much else.
0.064v @49.9hz
:whazzat:

Mooly meant , put your black probe on the ground (or virtual ground), set meter to DC volts, then measure with the red probe all the other pins in turn and record them all.


But first you could just try first of all whats the voltage with the black probe on pin 4 and the red on pin 8 , what do you get ?
Then move black probe to ground, and measure off same two pins in turn with red probe.
What do you get?
 
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It’s entirely possible the replacement chip killed something on the board, entirely possible

Please remove the chip, and tell us what voltage pin 4 & 8 have on them

So it looks like the chip has possibly taken out the power supply in some way.

We really need all the exact circuit diagrams you used to help troubleshooting if it starts getting heavy... although ultimately it will be an easy fix :)
 
So I removed the items on the board, replaced with similar value parts. And power pins. Still nothing I'm fed up with this now. Going to come back to it tomorrow, with a fresh head.
 

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Nothing, its showing up as 0.0v. I've tried it with 9v battery, 9v off my supply. Nothing.


Ooops sorry , I only glanced at the pic (I've had a beer:D) , it looks like it's fed with a single 9V supply, more than likely not split as a 4.5v/4.5V



So if you stick you red and black probes on the incoming 9V and 0v pins on the board you should have obviously 9V and then across pin 4 and 8 you should read 9V , if you want to check if it's a 4.5/4.5 supply set-up check pin 4 (with the black on the 0v pin)
 
Supply tracks appear to be on the back side of the pcb.... will be very easy to trace back to where continuity is lost as they wind their way to the 9v and 0v board pins, they may go through some current limiting/fusible resistor along the way.


But just get the meter on continuity and follow the tracks back, hold one probe on pin 8 (or 4) and the other testing continuity (power off obviously)