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Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

Open Source "Tower XL"
Open Source "Tower XL"
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Old 14th December 2018, 03:46 PM   #771
mbrennwa is offline mbrennwa  Switzerland
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Open Source "Tower XL"
Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul Vancluysen View Post
Photos!!
Open Source Monkey Coffin prototype. Quick and dirty box, but interesting project...
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Old 14th December 2018, 04:01 PM   #772
Paul Vancluysen is offline Paul Vancluysen  Belgium
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Originally Posted by mbrennwa View Post
Open Source Monkey Coffin prototype. Quick and dirty box, but interesting project...
Looks very good already for a prototype, interesting yes, with high expectations
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Old 14th December 2018, 04:11 PM   #773
pcgab is offline pcgab  United States
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Originally Posted by mbrennwa View Post
All you need is a circle jig, patience, some practice, a proper workbench, and maybe some tatoos (optional). I am at the circle jig level .
+1

I'm going to adjust the td8 insert tonight, I'll take some detail pictures of that process and post them here.
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Old 14th December 2018, 04:14 PM   #774
pcgab is offline pcgab  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul Vancluysen View Post
Gable,

For woofer and midrange the flush mounting is less critical, because these drivers become directive at higher frequencies. If you keep it lower than 1 mm, it is ok.
I have the same problem with an Accuton C173 midrange, there is also a rubber against the gasket. I made the mounting recess 1 mm deeper, just for good looking.
For a dome tweeter with wide radiation it is more important. 1mm can cause already some ripple around a few kHz. With the horn tweeter it is also less critical.

Your work looks very professional.
Thank you!

I will likely do the same for the td15, as you did with your Accuton midrange.

Cheers,
Gable
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Old 14th December 2018, 04:15 PM   #775
Aatto is offline Aatto  United States
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Gable that is awesome ,can't wait to see more pics.

good to know that we do not need to worry about the drivers being totally flushed but I know Gable is more detail oriented than that to let it go

mbrennwa, that looks killer!, very very tempted to build one can wait to see what magic you gonna do on the finish, perhaps another brass sheet over it ? ( that one looked stunning ).
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Last edited by Aatto; 14th December 2018 at 04:18 PM.
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Old 14th December 2018, 04:16 PM   #776
pcgab is offline pcgab  United States
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Originally Posted by mbrennwa View Post
Open Source Monkey Coffin prototype. Quick and dirty box, but interesting project...
I haven't kept up with that thread, what drivers are those?
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Old 14th December 2018, 04:42 PM   #777
mbrennwa is offline mbrennwa  Switzerland
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I haven't kept up with that thread, what drivers are those?
Faital 12PR320 woofer, Volt VM752 mid, and ScanSpeak R2904 in a Visaton WG148 waveguide. The tweeter choice + waveguide is not yet finalized.
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Old 14th December 2018, 05:22 PM   #778
pcgab is offline pcgab  United States
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Originally Posted by mbrennwa View Post
Faital 12PR320 woofer, Volt VM752 mid, and ScanSpeak R2904 in a Visaton WG148 waveguide. The tweeter choice + waveguide is not yet finalized.
That's quite a nice compliment of drivers.

I like the speaker input jacks on the top of the cabinet for each driver. Great idea for prototyping crossovers, etc.

Cheers,
Gable
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Old 14th December 2018, 11:35 PM   #779
pcgab is offline pcgab  United States
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I wrapped up the insert for the TD8, got it flush like I wanted.

The mounting ring has a slight flare that makes the transition from cone to baffle even more smooth. Very well thought out driver.

Yes, my machinist square is dirty, I could sand it clean, but there's more important things in life..... single malt comes to mind.
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Old 14th December 2018, 11:45 PM   #780
pcgab is offline pcgab  United States
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Someone asked for some how to pictures, so I'll post a few and a quick description of the process I used to make the recess for the TD8 the proper depth.

Since I had already cut the round insert out, I needed to screw a block down and draw the centerlines across it. When I'm routing a baffle, I always do my best to remember to leave the center witness marks on the baffle until I'm completely done routing the recess and cutouts. That way if I need to adjust the size of any of them, I can clamp the piece down, screw down a block, run a straight edge across the centerlines and I have my center pivot position once again.

Once I do that, I'll generally set the bit depth with a ruler to get close. I'll cut a little bit in some scrap and measure again, once I like that measurement, I set the depth stop on the plunge base and route the work piece.

You can see some blue marks on the circle guide. The first one is the outer most dimension and the second one is the inside, or cutout dimension. I can make a pass with the router, jump a few spots down the circle guide, route, repeat, until I get to the final mark.

Then clean up the burrs on the edge and drop the driver in to check for alignment.

With the circle guide and a small amount of prep work, it's easy to route a nice, flush recess for your driver(s).

Cheers,
Gable
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File Type: jpg IMG_0787.jpg (525.3 KB, 109 views)
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