Any look into a sub and or woofer to pair with these yet for a 3 way design?
I spent some time calculating the BL62/RE of many based on the info on Parts Express for many. I'm not sure how useful this information is (I'm a DIY noob) but here it is.. .
TB 6.5” coax – 8.41^2 / 3.6 = 19.647 (4mm xmax with 87db sensitivity)
TB 8” coax – 7.459^2 / 3.6 = 15.455 (6mm xmax with 90db sensitivity)
Bolded the ones that are close to the factors above for both 6.5 and 8" variants
8” Dayton DS AL 10.6^2 / 5.9 = 19.044
8” Dayton Designer series paper woofer – 9.89^2 / 5.8 = 16.864
* didn't type out the ^2 for everyone of the below but obviously included in calculation
PINK HiVi M8N 8" Aluminum / Magnesium Woofer = 9.6 / 6.5 = 14.178
- 29hz-2000 – 5.8Xmax, 86 db sensitivity
HiVi D8.8 8" = 150 watts RMS though. 11.7 / 6.5 = 21.06
PRV Audio 8MR600X 8" = ugly lettering on dust cap = 10.54 / 5.7 = 19.49
HiVi F8 YELLOW - 10.1 / 6.5 = 15.694
DA RS225P-8A – 8.5 / 7.1 = 10.176
DA RS225-8 - 9.05 / 6.5 = 12.6
TB W8-2145 100$ full range = 6.59 / 6.8 =
PRV Audio 8MR400A 8" = 6.8 / 6.1 =
DA RSS210HO-8 = 15.6 / 5.9 =
Peerless by Tymphany 830667 = 8.26 / 5.5 = 12.405
Tang Band W8-2022 $124 but 25HZ = 15.77 / 6.6
10” woofers 8 ohm
DA DS270-8 = 10.1 / 5.4 = 18.891
DA270-8 = 10.1/6.3 = 16.192
- 6.1xmax, 88.2 db sens
DA RS270-8 = 10.3/6.8 = 15.601
- 6.6xmax, 88.7 db sensitivity
DA DSA270-8 = 11.2/5.4 = 23.23
DA DC250-8 $26 = 12.64 / 6.6 = 24.21
10” woofers 4ohm –
DA RS270P-4A – 10.9 /3.9 = 30.46
DA RS270-4 – 12.1/3.9
I spent some time calculating the BL62/RE of many based on the info on Parts Express for many. I'm not sure how useful this information is (I'm a DIY noob) but here it is.. .
TB 6.5” coax – 8.41^2 / 3.6 = 19.647 (4mm xmax with 87db sensitivity)
TB 8” coax – 7.459^2 / 3.6 = 15.455 (6mm xmax with 90db sensitivity)
Bolded the ones that are close to the factors above for both 6.5 and 8" variants
8” Dayton DS AL 10.6^2 / 5.9 = 19.044
8” Dayton Designer series paper woofer – 9.89^2 / 5.8 = 16.864
* didn't type out the ^2 for everyone of the below but obviously included in calculation
PINK HiVi M8N 8" Aluminum / Magnesium Woofer = 9.6 / 6.5 = 14.178
- 29hz-2000 – 5.8Xmax, 86 db sensitivity
HiVi D8.8 8" = 150 watts RMS though. 11.7 / 6.5 = 21.06
PRV Audio 8MR600X 8" = ugly lettering on dust cap = 10.54 / 5.7 = 19.49
HiVi F8 YELLOW - 10.1 / 6.5 = 15.694
DA RS225P-8A – 8.5 / 7.1 = 10.176
DA RS225-8 - 9.05 / 6.5 = 12.6
TB W8-2145 100$ full range = 6.59 / 6.8 =
PRV Audio 8MR400A 8" = 6.8 / 6.1 =
DA RSS210HO-8 = 15.6 / 5.9 =
Peerless by Tymphany 830667 = 8.26 / 5.5 = 12.405
Tang Band W8-2022 $124 but 25HZ = 15.77 / 6.6
10” woofers 8 ohm
DA DS270-8 = 10.1 / 5.4 = 18.891
DA270-8 = 10.1/6.3 = 16.192
- 6.1xmax, 88.2 db sens
DA RS270-8 = 10.3/6.8 = 15.601
- 6.6xmax, 88.7 db sensitivity
DA DSA270-8 = 11.2/5.4 = 23.23
DA DC250-8 $26 = 12.64 / 6.6 = 24.21
10” woofers 4ohm –
DA RS270P-4A – 10.9 /3.9 = 30.46
DA RS270-4 – 12.1/3.9
So right now I'm building a pair of these in 0.23cuFT cabinets with a simple port but a somewhat complex network that's a riff off the earlier ones on this thread.
I also have the ability to do these fully active with a MiniDSP, and may go that route depending.
Here's the crossover as it stands. Feedback is welcome. Parts arrive on Friday!
I also have the ability to do these fully active with a MiniDSP, and may go that route depending.
Here's the crossover as it stands. Feedback is welcome. Parts arrive on Friday!
Attachments
W8-2314 in Voice Coil Test Bench October 3 2019 over at AUDIO EXPRESS.
link: Test Bench: Tang Band Speaker W8-2314 High-End Coaxial Driver | audioXpress
link: Test Bench: Tang Band Speaker W8-2314 High-End Coaxial Driver | audioXpress
Too low cross-over frequency?
Do you have any indication, that the tweeter will sound good at such a low cross-over frequency? 40 years of expirience tells me, that´s it's too low. My units are en route, but I'm going to try various frequencies via DSP and then emulate that with the passive cross-over. 25oo Hz 18db/oct. would be my starting point. Possibly with a RCL network across the tweeter section in the passive version of the filter.
Do you have any indication, that the tweeter will sound good at such a low cross-over frequency? 40 years of expirience tells me, that´s it's too low. My units are en route, but I'm going to try various frequencies via DSP and then emulate that with the passive cross-over. 25oo Hz 18db/oct. would be my starting point. Possibly with a RCL network across the tweeter section in the passive version of the filter.
If you plan to use a passive cross-over, I would suggest a variovent or slotted back cabinet design is better since both will significantly dampen the impedance at resonance which will otherwise cause problems for an optimal transfer function for the passive network if you choose a low order suitable low x-frequency.
Apples and oranges as mine are in smaller than needed boxes (they are used nearfield, with a Linkwitz transform).
Still, the winisd sims translated well to measurements so I would be fairly confident designing the boxes with the datasheet parameters.
OK, so it looks like I'm talking to myself here, but that's alright. I'm used to it.
I ordered two of the W6s. I did some research and found out that I can export an FRD file from REW, and export a ZMA file from the DATS v2 system that I got from PE.
To do this properly, should I build the cabinets, described above, and do the sweeps then, or should I mount a speaker to a large flat baffle and then do the sweeps?
I ordered two of the W6s. I did some research and found out that I can export an FRD file from REW, and export a ZMA file from the DATS v2 system that I got from PE.
To do this properly, should I build the cabinets, described above, and do the sweeps then, or should I mount a speaker to a large flat baffle and then do the sweeps?
I would very much like to respond to you if I had the data.
People generally measure the drivers in "free air" to get the driver parameters, and impedance and phase as a function of the frequency (those fancy named files you mentioned). Then comes designing the box (or the enclosure - sorry Scott) and the crossover. It is ok (maybe even better) to design the crossover after the boxes are built because the amplitude, phase and imp response may be somewhat different in the crossover region and else where.
On the other hand, I don't really have hands-on experience on this measurement business and can't help more. I am more like a "lets try this..." sort of guy. All in all I don't want to reach that ultimate sound in a short period of time in my life as this would be boring when the retirement arrives. This last paragraph might be my best advise...
Yes, place it in a proper ENCLOSURE, and then measure. It's small driver; no sense trying to get bass out of it. If it were me, I'd put it in a 1/4 cubic footer, sealed. Good luck with getting a passive crossover to work. It's just like dealing with a basket of snakes. A great idea to use a 15 below it. You CAN get bass out of a 15. Not with a 6. Just like you can't push a piano with a pencil. I must assume you mean the w6-2313. x max-4, bl = not much.
200Hz active crossover might could work. Use a REAL woofer, not one of those subwoofer pieces of crap.