Slowly going forward.
I'm starting to wonder about the best strategy for the tweeter with an active crossover. Should I completely forget about using a protection cap, use a big one or make the cap a part of the crossover calculations ?
At first sight I'm going for a LR24 at about 2khz. Can I just put a 20uF cap in serie with the tweeter, then EQ the tweeter as if I had a true 6db slope and then slap three more poles to get a LR24 ?
I'm starting to wonder about the best strategy for the tweeter with an active crossover. Should I completely forget about using a protection cap, use a big one or make the cap a part of the crossover calculations ?
At first sight I'm going for a LR24 at about 2khz. Can I just put a 20uF cap in serie with the tweeter, then EQ the tweeter as if I had a true 6db slope and then slap three more poles to get a LR24 ?
Attachments
That baffle looks great work.
Guess best you can do is measure tweeter in situation and use free XSim or VituixCAD to massage the rest into 4th order LR target, because a 1st order capacitor divided driver impedance times drivers natural 2nd order roll off plus baffle in situation is hard to predict transfer into real target curve.
Below is dirty quick rough example from VirtuixCAD using ONNI's curve, it takes two 2nd order low shelves plus one PEQ EQ's combined 6,8uF capacitor, but its not good enough to copy because ONNI used another capacitor in his measurements for that curve and also baffle is not the same.
Guess best you can do is measure tweeter in situation and use free XSim or VituixCAD to massage the rest into 4th order LR target, because a 1st order capacitor divided driver impedance times drivers natural 2nd order roll off plus baffle in situation is hard to predict transfer into real target curve.
Below is dirty quick rough example from VirtuixCAD using ONNI's curve, it takes two 2nd order low shelves plus one PEQ EQ's combined 6,8uF capacitor, but its not good enough to copy because ONNI used another capacitor in his measurements for that curve and also baffle is not the same.
Attachments
It is alive!
This is my first ever speaker build and I can't express how happy I am that it actually works and it sounds good!
Base is an Ikea lamp base and enclosure is 3D printed in carbon fibre PLA composite. Sounds fancy but it is not really. It is stronger than regular plastic though. Surface also has a really nice finish with a bit of a graphite like shine.
As expected, performance in the low end is missing. On to building a sub I guess.
A big thanks to people here for helping me with crossover issues.
Let me know your thoughts.
This is my first ever speaker build and I can't express how happy I am that it actually works and it sounds good!
Base is an Ikea lamp base and enclosure is 3D printed in carbon fibre PLA composite. Sounds fancy but it is not really. It is stronger than regular plastic though. Surface also has a really nice finish with a bit of a graphite like shine.
As expected, performance in the low end is missing. On to building a sub I guess.
A big thanks to people here for helping me with crossover issues.
Let me know your thoughts.
Attachments
Nice, but yes that minimal round baffle is not helping the bass at all, and driver's excursion is challenged. You will obviously need to cross around 200Hz, not just a subwoofer!
Can you show room response of a single speaker? REW's Distortion graphics shows fundamental spl representing room response, if measurement is taken at spot.
Here is my IKEA bowl with SEAS MR18 coaxial, no highpass, measured at 60 cm. It is easy to see where the woofer starts to have problems.
Can you show room response of a single speaker? REW's Distortion graphics shows fundamental spl representing room response, if measurement is taken at spot.
Here is my IKEA bowl with SEAS MR18 coaxial, no highpass, measured at 60 cm. It is easy to see where the woofer starts to have problems.
Attachments
Last edited:
Bought 16 of the tweeters used in these coaxials for a small line array project/prototype. Measurements found here, VoiceCoil, and Hobby Hi-Fi looked promising and the frame size is smaller than most for a tweeter with its low end capabilities.
Now I need to shop around for a CNC operator.
Now I need to shop around for a CNC operator.
Attachments
Currently working on it. Doing two 0.23cuFT vented boxes with a 1” port (PE knock downs because I have some) along with a riff on Perceval’s crossover design. Drivers arrive in 3 weeks.
If these work well I’ll do the 8” in a sealed box on top of vented Isobaric HiVi M8N’s because I’m somewhat nuts and why not.
They’re being driven by an Emotiva class a/b at 300wpc into 8ohms, so lots of power.
found these over the weekend. They've peaked my interest in my first DIY project.
The D'appolito setup is what I was thinking for a mid-tower and center channel setup. Possibly a passive woofer on the outside of the box to help with bass when using 2 of these set to hit the lows under 400hz Dayton Audio RS225-8 8" Reference Woofer
What's a good 8" woofer match for these coax TB's if you're looking for them to do more than just really low bass?
Worth going D'Appolito over a more symplistic approach with a single 10 or 8 and having the sub focus on sub things?
The D'appolito setup is what I was thinking for a mid-tower and center channel setup. Possibly a passive woofer on the outside of the box to help with bass when using 2 of these set to hit the lows under 400hz Dayton Audio RS225-8 8" Reference Woofer
What's a good 8" woofer match for these coax TB's if you're looking for them to do more than just really low bass?
Worth going D'Appolito over a more symplistic approach with a single 10 or 8 and having the sub focus on sub things?
total lack of information out there on them for sure. the cost makes you think high end but it's probably really up to how you implement it to make it sound good.
