Hello. I have 2 pairs of empty cabinets that i need to finish up. My goal here is to be CHEAP. I like the look of orignal wood cabinets. I understand i could get original drivers but I would like to use modern drivers. The first set is a realistic T-100 cabinet. It originally had 2 8" woofers, a tweeter and an l-pad. These cabinets are mint shape but completely empty. What would be a good setup here? I would need drivers and x-over here. I am not against opening up some of the holes if needed. . I know nothing about thiel parameters and such so i am useless in that area.
The other cabinets are EPI m201. These use 2 8" and 2 3" tweeters (originally inverted domes). These ones have the original crossovers in them. I have looked at the humansound site and see that he sells an upgraded x-over for these. Looks simple enough to build my own. Again, sourcing originals is probably going to cost more than the complete unit is worth.
I am looking for your recommendations and opinions please. I listen to rock and music with bass in general. I would most likely try to purchase from parts express or MCM since they seem to have the best selection.
One more thing, there is a pair of Infinty rs625 for sale locally that i might be able to get cheap. Would theses be useable here?
Thanks for any ideas.
The other cabinets are EPI m201. These use 2 8" and 2 3" tweeters (originally inverted domes). These ones have the original crossovers in them. I have looked at the humansound site and see that he sells an upgraded x-over for these. Looks simple enough to build my own. Again, sourcing originals is probably going to cost more than the complete unit is worth.
I am looking for your recommendations and opinions please. I listen to rock and music with bass in general. I would most likely try to purchase from parts express or MCM since they seem to have the best selection.
One more thing, there is a pair of Infinty rs625 for sale locally that i might be able to get cheap. Would theses be useable here?
Thanks for any ideas.
Some info on the original t100 specs
Power Input: 75 Watts max
Frequency Response: 55 Hz to 18 kHz
Impedance: 8 Ohms
System Resonance: 55 Hz
Cross-over Point: 3.5 kHz
Enclosure Type: Oiled walnut veneer sealed for extended bass response
Control Type: Tweeter level control
Enclosure Size (HWD): 36" x 13" x 12 1/2"
914.40 x 330.20 x 311.15 mm
Woofer Size: 8"
Woofer Type: Acoustic-suspension with brass voice coil
Woofer Magnet Size: 10.1 ounces
Tweeter Type: Extended range high compliance
Power Input: 75 Watts max
Frequency Response: 55 Hz to 18 kHz
Impedance: 8 Ohms
System Resonance: 55 Hz
Cross-over Point: 3.5 kHz
Enclosure Type: Oiled walnut veneer sealed for extended bass response
Control Type: Tweeter level control
Enclosure Size (HWD): 36" x 13" x 12 1/2"
914.40 x 330.20 x 311.15 mm
Woofer Size: 8"
Woofer Type: Acoustic-suspension with brass voice coil
Woofer Magnet Size: 10.1 ounces
Tweeter Type: Extended range high compliance
A cheap but still decent sounding sytem would be a Visaton based one.
2 of WS20E-8 and a TW 70 cone tweeter in a 2.5 way closed box
would fit well in Optimus T100 enclosure. The drivers are available
in Visaton Boxsim software for the enthusiastic individuals to work on
their XO filter.
I guess GRS brand of PE store should also be considered a first
choice for a cheap system, but without any measurements available,
remains cloudy.
2 of WS20E-8 and a TW 70 cone tweeter in a 2.5 way closed box
would fit well in Optimus T100 enclosure. The drivers are available
in Visaton Boxsim software for the enthusiastic individuals to work on
their XO filter.
I guess GRS brand of PE store should also be considered a first
choice for a cheap system, but without any measurements available,
remains cloudy.
You'll need to re-do the crossovers completely in both cases, no reason for you to buy an "upgrade" and then try to find matching drivers, won't work.
May I suggest instead you build brand new speakers from a kit? You'll get MUCH less frustrated.
My LM-1 Kits are around $350 with cabinets, and sound great. Free to build.
I mean, what you are looking for IS possible, but there's a lot of speaker design you'd need to learn. At the end of the day given your effort, and the parts, by the time you are done wiht all that any m oney saving in the speakers won't be worht the mental/physical effort you'll go through, EXCEPT in learning how to design speakers, and by then you'll want something else.
Best,
Erik
May I suggest instead you build brand new speakers from a kit? You'll get MUCH less frustrated.
My LM-1 Kits are around $350 with cabinets, and sound great. Free to build.
I mean, what you are looking for IS possible, but there's a lot of speaker design you'd need to learn. At the end of the day given your effort, and the parts, by the time you are done wiht all that any m oney saving in the speakers won't be worht the mental/physical effort you'll go through, EXCEPT in learning how to design speakers, and by then you'll want something else.
Best,
Erik
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