Hello. I have 2 pairs of empty cabinets that i need to finish up. My goal here is to be CHEAP. I like the look of orignal wood cabinets. I understand i could get original drivers but I would like to use modern drivers. The first set is a realistic T-100 cabinet. It originally had 2 8" woofers, a tweeter and an l-pad. These cabinets are mint shape but completely empty. What would be a good setup here? I would need drivers and x-over here. I am not against opening up some of the holes if needed. . I know nothing about thiel parameters and such so i am useless in that area.
The other cabinets are EPI m201. These use 2 8" and 2 3" tweeters (originally inverted domes). These ones have the original crossovers in them. I have looked at the humansound site and see that he sells an upgraded x-over for these. Looks simple enough to build my own. Again, sourcing originals is probably going to cost more than the complete unit is worth.
I am looking for your recommendations and opinions please. I listen to rock and music with bass in general. I would most likely try to purchase from parts express or MCM since they seem to have the best selection.
One more thing, there is a pair of Infinty rs625 for sale locally that i might be able to get cheap. Would theses be useable here?
Thanks for any ideas.
The other cabinets are EPI m201. These use 2 8" and 2 3" tweeters (originally inverted domes). These ones have the original crossovers in them. I have looked at the humansound site and see that he sells an upgraded x-over for these. Looks simple enough to build my own. Again, sourcing originals is probably going to cost more than the complete unit is worth.
I am looking for your recommendations and opinions please. I listen to rock and music with bass in general. I would most likely try to purchase from parts express or MCM since they seem to have the best selection.
One more thing, there is a pair of Infinty rs625 for sale locally that i might be able to get cheap. Would theses be useable here?
Thanks for any ideas.
Pictures and dimensions help a lot
Especially for those not familiar with the originals, so please measure both the cabinets internal and hole size and post the results.
Bear in mind that a cheap solution may not be possible
Especially for those not familiar with the originals, so please measure both the cabinets internal and hole size and post the results.
Bear in mind that a cheap solution may not be possible
Some info on the original t100 specs
Power Input: 75 Watts max
Frequency Response: 55 Hz to 18 kHz
Impedance: 8 Ohms
System Resonance: 55 Hz
Cross-over Point: 3.5 kHz
Enclosure Type: Oiled walnut veneer sealed for extended bass response
Control Type: Tweeter level control
Enclosure Size (HWD): 36" x 13" x 12 1/2"
914.40 x 330.20 x 311.15 mm
Woofer Size: 8"
Woofer Type: Acoustic-suspension with brass voice coil
Woofer Magnet Size: 10.1 ounces
Tweeter Type: Extended range high compliance
Power Input: 75 Watts max
Frequency Response: 55 Hz to 18 kHz
Impedance: 8 Ohms
System Resonance: 55 Hz
Cross-over Point: 3.5 kHz
Enclosure Type: Oiled walnut veneer sealed for extended bass response
Control Type: Tweeter level control
Enclosure Size (HWD): 36" x 13" x 12 1/2"
914.40 x 330.20 x 311.15 mm
Woofer Size: 8"
Woofer Type: Acoustic-suspension with brass voice coil
Woofer Magnet Size: 10.1 ounces
Tweeter Type: Extended range high compliance
A cheap but still decent sounding sytem would be a Visaton based one.
2 of WS20E-8 and a TW 70 cone tweeter in a 2.5 way closed box
would fit well in Optimus T100 enclosure. The drivers are available
in Visaton Boxsim software for the enthusiastic individuals to work on
their XO filter.
I guess GRS brand of PE store should also be considered a first
choice for a cheap system, but without any measurements available,
remains cloudy.
2 of WS20E-8 and a TW 70 cone tweeter in a 2.5 way closed box
would fit well in Optimus T100 enclosure. The drivers are available
in Visaton Boxsim software for the enthusiastic individuals to work on
their XO filter.
I guess GRS brand of PE store should also be considered a first
choice for a cheap system, but without any measurements available,
remains cloudy.
yes the epi cabinets are also empty (it does have the crossovers in the cabinets). The picture is just for reference
You'll need to re-do the crossovers completely in both cases, no reason for you to buy an "upgrade" and then try to find matching drivers, won't work.
May I suggest instead you build brand new speakers from a kit? You'll get MUCH less frustrated.
My LM-1 Kits are around $350 with cabinets, and sound great. Free to build.
I mean, what you are looking for IS possible, but there's a lot of speaker design you'd need to learn. At the end of the day given your effort, and the parts, by the time you are done wiht all that any m oney saving in the speakers won't be worht the mental/physical effort you'll go through, EXCEPT in learning how to design speakers, and by then you'll want something else. 🙂
Best,
Erik
May I suggest instead you build brand new speakers from a kit? You'll get MUCH less frustrated.
My LM-1 Kits are around $350 with cabinets, and sound great. Free to build.
I mean, what you are looking for IS possible, but there's a lot of speaker design you'd need to learn. At the end of the day given your effort, and the parts, by the time you are done wiht all that any m oney saving in the speakers won't be worht the mental/physical effort you'll go through, EXCEPT in learning how to design speakers, and by then you'll want something else. 🙂
Best,
Erik
- Status
- Not open for further replies.