Cabinets for Tannoy 10" HPD's

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blackeye*_0

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Joined 2006
Xoc1 said:
The Plot also shows the bass sag that you get with the Tannoy Dual Concentric in a bigger cabinet.
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Horn loading helps a bunch. The right cab can do wonders for the ails of the vintage Tannoys...no small wonder the Autographs, and GRF's are still so revered. :cool:


I still have to finish my new cabinets for my Monitor Gold 15" drivers they are 250 litre boxes -Stand 4 feet tall and have 2 X 6" diameter ports.
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My kinda guy! :)

Graeme I would recomend you to download WinISD and enter the parameters yourself. You can easily then adjust the capacity to match your build and adjust the port size to whatever you use. The software will then calculate the length of port to suit.:)
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Agreed. Oh, and Graeme, make CERTAIN you are entering the T/S parameters in the same units of measure! So many people screw up on that part...
 
Brett

Brett

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Joined 2002
blackeye*_0 said:
Yeah, the problem was that it sucked, in my opinion. Again, it's just my opinion. I got them out of a Cabaret series set, and they were replacements- new from Parts Express..very fresh. I had been spoiled by other great JBL LF drivers just before I got them and they were nowhere near a 2235 or LE14H1/3 in terms of musicality. Just my opinion....
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Sorry but 'musicality' and 'it sucked' tell me nothing useful.

blackeye*_0 said:
One sub can work quite well, thank you. Granted, if the OP plans to pound his vintage speakers in a Home Theater scenario...maybe not. If listening to music, one sub does a fine job. It MUST be placed dead center of the speakers, though...that was the key to getting it sounding right (for me).
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It has nothing to do with output levels, though that and the reduced distortion are a nice side benefit. The researchers I mentioned have explored the use of multiple subs to better avaerage out room modes and give a more even bass response at the LP for many rooms.
blackeye*_0 said:
Sorry, I get defense about Tannoys. I love them dearly. I feel Tannoys have stellar midrange and need no help far as I'm concerned. In fact, many other speakers fall so very short on making the kind of crisp, organic midrange magic a decent Tannoy DC has. If you know how to make a Tannoy produce better midrange, I'm really freaking impressed.
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As I said, I have owned many, and whilst they are good, they were far from the religious experience they seem to be for some.
I personally would never contemplate returning to Tannoys as my main speakers.

blackeye*_0 said:
I understood. I'm just saying you should try a pair if you get the chance. If you like the 2226, especially it's ability to cross high, you should love LE14H's (or 2235H).
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Crossing high was not a major reason for the suggestion of the 2226, rather that because it has decently controlled breakup well above where I suggested x-ing to the HPD, it would be easy to make it xover inaudibly, ie not oddities from the 2226 above operating band.

graeme uk said:
So, options that require big SS power are not viable;), at least not for powering the tannoys.
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That was never even suggested.

graeme uk said:
Also, as far as adding subs, im not sure i would like the idea of SS driving part of my system but ill give it a go if its going to sound well (if only i hadnt sold my highly modded quad SS amps :()

I assume if i go the sealed box route ill defo need a sub.
Bearing that in mind, i assume said sub will have to be seperately powered buy its own SS amp (ive no real desire to try and build a monster valve amp!)
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Yes, you would need an SS amp for the LF section, and an xover. A large tube amp would serve no benefit.

There are plenty of solid SS amps available out there for sensible money - Rotel amongst 'audiophile known' brands and the Behringer A500 as a solid performing cheap new option.
blackeye*_0 said:
Agreed. :D My experiences with SS amps are in the past. Despite having some qualities I admire, I'm hypnotized by tubes. I don't use SS amps anymore, either. When I did- the HPD's sounded quite good with them, though. Then again, HPD's are very forgiving and designed to take the abuse of a lackluster SS....
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Not having a go here, but I can think of many different topologies of tube and SS amps. For very obvious reasons they do sound different. My old Fisher 800 sounds very different to the Pimm 47 pentode, different to the Wright PP1C and 2C etc. There is no such thing as a general 'tube sound'. Over 100 tube hifi amps and a lot of guitar amps have taught me that.

All the best with whatever you decide to build.
 
felixx

felixx

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Joined 2005
customaudioprojects.com
Yes it is.
It play only a few hours and is too early to have some conclusions.I deal with xovers and I follow the original sch.For the autoformers I use a multitap inductor and it seems to work very good with 3,9mH.I use also the parallel notch;without this isn't acceptable.I can say the 295 work extremely well into sealed enclosure...85-90 l.
I think the final atempt for xover will take a little time to do the job right and high quality components is a must.
I test the 295 also into open baffle,augmented with 2 x 15" woofers.Very very good timbre,superb focus and balanced middle registers.Excelent driver.

Picasa Web Albums - triodesound - New Folder (3)
 
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graeme uk

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Joined 2005
Are you going to add any low frequency support if these are sealed?

I saw this design a while back and was thinking about building some myself, but not sure i could successfuly rout out all the pieces.

Did you get them cnc'd?


It seems i have bought some quad esl63's that are broken so its debatable which speakers will recieve my attention first.
 
B

blackeye*_0

Member
Joined 2006
felixx said:
I can say the 295 work extremely well into sealed enclosure...85-90 l..Very very good timbre,superb focus and balanced middle registers.Excelent driver.

Picasa Web Albums - triodesound - New Folder (3)
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I've been saying the same thing for a few years now,and I couldn't agree more! The little HPD295 is a wonderful driver and a sealed enclosure makes it even better- highlighting it's taut and deep midbass while remaining open and organic. Here are my humble looking enclosures. They were one of my first times building speakers, and while they may not be pretty- they were built like tanks and worked perfectly. I used the Golden Ratio, and was very proud of them at the time. It was a great learning experience. However, they look like doorstops compared to your work of art, Felix! Very nice!!

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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
 
felixx

felixx

Member
Joined 2005
customaudioprojects.com
Are you going to add any low frequency support if these are sealed?
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After first atempts I don't think is necessary.There is a nice tight natural bass and I will have room gains also (if I needed) and I will work with corner positions.I will have many options but I liked what I heared.
The front baffle have 7 cm and the internal design + rubber liquid damper make from them a "super light" speaker with 1 meter height with only 70Kg without driver or xover.:eek:
This is serious enclosure.
In the end I think I will not be disapointed :D.



I test them into these ob's:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/mult...es-description.html?perpage=10&pagenumber=118
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/23208-system-pictures-description-119.html

blackeye...your 2 braces make those enclosure strong enough.It's looks classic and sometimes the classics make some music.
How much damping material absorbers did you used into yours?
 
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B

blackeye*_0

Member
Joined 2006
felixx said:
blackeye...your 2 braces make those enclosure strong enough.It's looks classic and sometimes the classics make some music.
How much damping material absorbers did you used into yours?
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Yes, they sounded lovely. I was impressed at how good they made music. I started off using acoustastuff at the recommended amount, but ended up with about half that (~0.5lbs per cu. ft.). This allowed me to get deeper bass at the expense of slightly less midrange focus. Finding the right balance took some time. Then I augmented with subs and added more stuffing to get the focus back. This was the best performance for my room, which was approx 500ft. sq.

I made modifications to the drivers and crossovers, too. I rewired the network point to point, bypassing all switches (set to level/level). I used ClarityCap SA (red), and Mills MRA12 resistors. I then used an AlphaCore 12awg inductor on the series LF section. The lower DCR made for cleaner and more pronounced bass, so I changed my fixed setting to +2 for rough compensation. I then did the one thing that makes some Tannerds draw weapons: I removed the dustcap. This made a notable treble hash shine through, which was compensated for by changing the HF caps to Jupiter beeswax. Wiring was all Kimber 5N, and posts were Cardas copper billet. The measured room response with my cheap RTA showed nearly flat FR to about 50Hz. After I added subs and dialed them in, I was in heaven. This was my first time in this hobby where I could'nt care less what anyone else thought: I had found the magic!
 
felixx

felixx

Member
Joined 2005
customaudioprojects.com

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