So, I got this idea today when they were installing new countertops in my lab. Most of you have probably seen this two-component epoxy resin material. It's very dense, although it scratches quite easily. Wouldn't it be neat to create a "monocoque" speaker cabinet? One would have to construct a mold, and then simply fill the mold with the epoxy resin. Has anyone here considered this type of approach or heard of it being done?
Interesting - I'd wondered about something similar, inspired by the worktops in our lab. I think the material is an epoxy composite with mineral filler.
It would be good for speakers, DIY shelving and I think has possibilities for turntable construction.
There is a similar product for bathroom kitchen surfaces (counters, showers etc.) that resembles marble.
Cheers,
Ed
It would be good for speakers, DIY shelving and I think has possibilities for turntable construction.
There is a similar product for bathroom kitchen surfaces (counters, showers etc.) that resembles marble.
Cheers,
Ed
walker112 said:
+1 on that. I was going to suggest sawdust or fine wood chip.
You can bulk out the volume (use less expensive epoxy) and probably get a more acoustically inert material, which is what you want for conventional cabinet design.
Since you have to make a mould tho' it's probably less trouble to cut, screw and glue 12 MDF rectangles - unless you want a zillion, that is.
w
Re: Re: Anyone ever try using epoxy resin for cabinet material?
I have to disagree. Have you ever tried lifting a slab of the typical countertop found in a lab? It's heavy as all heck - and very hard. These countertops are used to support centrifuges and other very heavy equipment. This is not fiberglass.
nickmckinney said:
I have to disagree. Have you ever tried lifting a slab of the typical countertop found in a lab? It's heavy as all heck - and very hard. These countertops are used to support centrifuges and other very heavy equipment. This is not fiberglass.
^^ You have that right ezkcdude. This stuff is really dense. I had to move some a while back and was quite taken aback by the weight.
If one did need to perform cutting and or machining, I think it could pose a problem, as the material is very hard. Properly used, it could be put to very good purpose.
Easiest woud be a turntable plinth (I made a similar item with a 12" concrete paving slab). This is stood on squashy rubber feet, about 3/4" high made up from sections of silicone rubber, which offer vertical and lateral compliance. An excellent vibration insulation, for pennies.
Ed
If one did need to perform cutting and or machining, I think it could pose a problem, as the material is very hard. Properly used, it could be put to very good purpose.
Easiest woud be a turntable plinth (I made a similar item with a 12" concrete paving slab). This is stood on squashy rubber feet, about 3/4" high made up from sections of silicone rubber, which offer vertical and lateral compliance. An excellent vibration insulation, for pennies.
Ed
Re: Re: Re: Anyone ever try using epoxy resin for cabinet material?
No this is the stuff that you impregnate fiberglass or carbon fiber with to get that clear carbon fiber look (like on the hoods of the cars) instead of polyester resin. I have watched it being used building 4 passenger airplanes, and that is where I learned how to use it. Here is a link to a place that sells a bunch of different varieties:
http://www.uscomposites.com/
IMHO - If the additive is heavy there is a chance it will fall out of suspension if the cure time is slow. You can use micro balloons or similar to make it into a paste like bondo.
ezkcdude said:
No this is the stuff that you impregnate fiberglass or carbon fiber with to get that clear carbon fiber look (like on the hoods of the cars) instead of polyester resin. I have watched it being used building 4 passenger airplanes, and that is where I learned how to use it. Here is a link to a place that sells a bunch of different varieties:
http://www.uscomposites.com/
IMHO - If the additive is heavy there is a chance it will fall out of suspension if the cure time is slow. You can use micro balloons or similar to make it into a paste like bondo.
I think some wires are crossed here. There are so many composite materials that use epoxy resin compounds as a binder.
The laboratory counter top material is mineral - powdered slate/stone etc mixed with epoxy. Whereas fiberglass or carbon fiber are formed by soaking fiber bundles, matting or woven fiber with the resin and applying them to a mould. Often the curing process employs heat and pressure to improve bonding.
Ed
The laboratory counter top material is mineral - powdered slate/stone etc mixed with epoxy. Whereas fiberglass or carbon fiber are formed by soaking fiber bundles, matting or woven fiber with the resin and applying them to a mould. Often the curing process employs heat and pressure to improve bonding.
Ed
Ed Holland said:
Ok, Ed. You're probably right. Maybe the installers just say "epoxy resin" as a generic term, because they don't know exactly what the "ground substance" that is actually used. So, you're saying I just need to get the epoxy, and then mix in powdered mineral or something like that?
the comment above about the cheap surface that scratches easily is probably talking about polyester resin. smells worse when curing but is much less toxic and not as strong.
most composite parts for structure are epoxy based. the difference in price between polyester and epoxy resin is pretty significant too.
With the flexibility (ease-of-use) of a composite construction, you could probably build cabinets with whatever properties you wanted. maybe a layer of carbon for stiffness, a layer of rubber pellets for damping, a layer of lead shot for mass... whatever you want.
And if you make a proper mold, you can get a repeatable perfect finish on each part.
most composite parts for structure are epoxy based. the difference in price between polyester and epoxy resin is pretty significant too.
With the flexibility (ease-of-use) of a composite construction, you could probably build cabinets with whatever properties you wanted. maybe a layer of carbon for stiffness, a layer of rubber pellets for damping, a layer of lead shot for mass... whatever you want.
And if you make a proper mold, you can get a repeatable perfect finish on each part.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Anyone ever try using epoxy resin for cabinet material?
I have used FRP (resin bonded fiberglass for many an speker enclosure for home and car audio). I have also experimented using resin to bond marble chips (95% marble 5% resin in weight) and create a surface that is tougher than marble (crack resistant) and just as smooth.
Using resin based materials is really not that diffcult (just messy). Since we are DIYers and usually many one-off products the best way is to use 4mm ply (we get a water and termite resistant marine grade ply here in India) to create the form. If you want to reuse the form use a plastic sheet liberally sprayed with PVA in between the resin and ply. If not let the ply bond to the resin.
What I have found is that 4mm of ply covered with about 9mm of FRP (total 13mm so about 1/2 inch) is about as stiff as 30mm of MDF and much lighter.
The lighter the material the less energy it will store and hence this should make a better speaker cabinet.
Hope this helps.
ezkcdude said:
I have used FRP (resin bonded fiberglass for many an speker enclosure for home and car audio). I have also experimented using resin to bond marble chips (95% marble 5% resin in weight) and create a surface that is tougher than marble (crack resistant) and just as smooth.
Using resin based materials is really not that diffcult (just messy). Since we are DIYers and usually many one-off products the best way is to use 4mm ply (we get a water and termite resistant marine grade ply here in India) to create the form. If you want to reuse the form use a plastic sheet liberally sprayed with PVA in between the resin and ply. If not let the ply bond to the resin.
What I have found is that 4mm of ply covered with about 9mm of FRP (total 13mm so about 1/2 inch) is about as stiff as 30mm of MDF and much lighter.
The lighter the material the less energy it will store and hence this should make a better speaker cabinet.
Hope this helps.
I have some professional exsperience with glasfiber and making moulds fore glasfiber
Polyester bonds very good and will destroy your mould, and it will be impossible to split from the mould ... epoxy will probably be even worse
You have to make a prototype, grind and wax it smooth and shiny, with not eeven a scratch
Then paint it with special gelcoat which also will have to end up shiny and smooth
Then you can make your mould upon that
The mould should then be cleaned and waxed 10 times until its shiny and smooth
The mould shall then be painted with gelcoat and a couple of layers of glasfiber with resin
Then you may have luck to do what you want to do
Its difficult and exstremely time consuming ... and in the end probably of little benefit
btw ... because of my english I am sure I have forgotten a couple of things
Polyester bonds very good and will destroy your mould, and it will be impossible to split from the mould ... epoxy will probably be even worse
You have to make a prototype, grind and wax it smooth and shiny, with not eeven a scratch
Then paint it with special gelcoat which also will have to end up shiny and smooth
Then you can make your mould upon that
The mould should then be cleaned and waxed 10 times until its shiny and smooth
The mould shall then be painted with gelcoat and a couple of layers of glasfiber with resin
Then you may have luck to do what you want to do
Its difficult and exstremely time consuming ... and in the end probably of little benefit
btw ... because of my english I am sure I have forgotten a couple of things
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