Also try US composites at http://www.shopmaninc.com
I've used the spray version with great success. You have to use it over a well waxed form.
I've used the spray version with great success. You have to use it over a well waxed form.
Re: I haven't tried it....
After making cabinets in composites for years I'm giving up and going to wood. Its just a lot cheaper and easier to deal with. The composites are great, but push the product price too high to be justified in terms of performance. They look great though.
chrismercurio said:
After making cabinets in composites for years I'm giving up and going to wood. Its just a lot cheaper and easier to deal with. The composites are great, but push the product price too high to be justified in terms of performance. They look great though.
gedlee said:
I would have to listen to these: Fuji Eclipse TD712; reviewed at Stereophile.com, before I came to any conclusion about that notion...
critofur said:
You should read these reviews of mine then:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1507485#post1507485
And
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1520192#post1520192
Real reviews, not Stereophile reviews.
That Fujitsu company also makes a subwoofer with opposing drivers connected by an aluminum shaft. Brilliant!
Here's a pdf of the brochure. I'd think it was marketing B.S., if I already didn't understand the theory behind it. These speakers go for thousands of USD, but could be made for much less than that DIY.
Here's a pdf of the brochure. I'd think it was marketing B.S., if I already didn't understand the theory behind it. These speakers go for thousands of USD, but could be made for much less than that DIY.
gedlee said:
I read the reviews.
Your system seems to be a custom made system where the subs are designed specifically for the transfer function of your room. Right?
The tightness of the bass comes from the fact that the main speakers operate down to 50Hz with the BP subs only providing a foundation. Right?
Are the BP subs configured to play at much lower levels than the main speakers. I ask this because BP subs are known to be very effcient in the quantity of the bass they deliver.
I once built BP subs (in stereo) each sub using 2 10" Peerless (831727) woofers in a 3 chambered box (center chamber was vented) for a Dynaudio Gemini kit. The "visceral kick" these subs provided was appreciated but I began to suspect that they lacked fine definition. After reading your reviews I now assume the errors made were that I did not provide any over lap between the subs and Geminis and that the subs were about the same level as the Gemini.
The reviews your system has got as atlesat got me looking at BP as an option again. Any guidance in this matter would be much appreciated. I live in India and coming to the US to listen to your system is not a convienient option.
I have 4 12" Audio Concpets woofers that I can use to experiment.
gedlee said:
how WAF friendly is this process?
Most of us are lucky if we are allowed to get a pair of floorstanders.
I was considering bandpass becuase I believe that for it's size it can produce the most bass. What about goig isobarik with bandpass using 2 woofers in push-pull config? This would be even more compact.
I fear we have gone terribly Off Topic! Sorry.
I'm using epoxy for special parts of loudspeaker cabinets and difficult shapes, like this phase plug (for a 15"):
This is mostly polyester/ fibreglass (4/5" thick), glued with epoxy/chalk, filled with polyurethane 2-comp. foam and painted with a 2-comp PU-paint. It's not quite finished yet but unfortunately it went down the line of priorities
A bit more info why reinforcement materials such as aramide, glass fibre and carbon have such great benefits in combination with polyester and epoxy can be derived from the next table (translated to the best of my knowledge): Especially loudspeaker enclosures would benefit from these fibres added. Carbon fibre in special, as it acts against vibrations.
As you can see the resins are primarily strong upon being pressed together were as the fibres offer strength against being pulled apart.
The strongest composite I made up to date from epoxy and chopped glass strands was a bit thougher/harder than 13-laminate void free Baltic birch but quite more dense and expensive. The latter is the main reason I only use it for smaller and extraordinary/ difficult objects.
No problems with only using wax occurred up till now. 5 layers of wax were sufficient for removal from a variety of moulds. However epoxy shrinks a little (up to 5%), polyester shrinks quite a bit (up to 10%) so it can wrap itself around a mould, or creating forces making it nasty or impossible to separate. The phase plug as above shrunk itself on the inner PU-foam core. More filler or fibre added = less shrink.
Can’t find the quote but I've tried adding wood dust but only small quantities could be added before it turned into a paste (about 20-25% MDF dust). edit- other non-fibre fillers can be used in larger percentages resulting in lower cost and possible better performance -edit-
Regards Johan
JL Audio uses many layers of fiberglass and epoxy to make their subwoofer enclosures (Gotham + Fathom).
Pretty impressive stuff and it is just solid epoxy and fiberglass.
The rest of the pics are here...
JL Audio Tour
Pretty impressive stuff and it is just solid epoxy and fiberglass.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The rest of the pics are here...
JL Audio Tour
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