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Priming MDF boxes
Priming MDF boxes
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Old 24th April 2007, 09:50 PM   #11
ShinOBIWAN is offline ShinOBIWAN  United Kingdom
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Hi Sploo, good to see someone else exploring this. Its been a big issue for me and has cost me a lot of time.

The best method I've tried is veneering the edges:

Priming MDF boxes


Priming MDF boxes


First off, apologies for these large images. I always try to strike a compromise between size and quality but I just couldn't keep the needed detail with reasonable sizes.

The following are close ups of the metallic silver finish on the baffles, this colour and finish really show every imperfection because the metallic has a texture. If you look at the last shot of these three you will notice a faint dent in the finish, I did this after prepping to paint and it was so small I thought "what the hell". Its very plain to see in that photo, yet still absolutely no lamination joints which show even more plainly than that. I took these today so its been 3-weeks now since finishing them.

Priming MDF boxes


Priming MDF boxes


Priming MDF boxes


Overall the veneer does a brilliant job here and its supremely quick compared to the other methods I've tried. The only thing I've done here is veneer and then prime. No other prep necessary.
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Old 25th April 2007, 11:19 AM   #12
slhijb is offline slhijb  United States
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ShinOBIWAN - Very Very Awesome!!! Looks like a great solution. As with many other diyers, I've been struggling with this issue.
May I ask, what type and thickness of veneer do you recommend for painting?
Will be painting speakers a lacquer gloss "piano black". Using MDF for outer cabinets. Painting in an automotive paint booth pro spary gun.
Also, any special application techniques recommended for the veneer?
Hope you don't mind, Jim
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Old 25th April 2007, 12:44 PM   #13
larksp is offline larksp  United Kingdom
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strange shape the speakers may be but they do look well done
be nice to see a finished picture.

some of the veneer dont seem an easy cut being the shape it is any tips

guessing it was like iron on and where did you buy it from cos i am in the UK as well first time i tried i messed it up ended up just painting it .

and then i done vinyl and bit since so got better but any tips be good
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Old 25th April 2007, 01:11 PM   #14
ShinOBIWAN is offline ShinOBIWAN  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally posted by larksp
[B]strange shape the speakers may be but they do look well done
be nice to see a finished picture.
They aren't finished yet so nothing to show just now. There's a thread on here that shows the construction progress.

Quote:
some of the veneer dont seem an easy cut being the shape it is any tips
Not really any tips to give. It looks more complicated than it is.

I used a plain veneer with as little grain pattern as possible, I think it was Birch. Then simply cut roughly to size with sharp scissors, applied contact adhesive to the veneer and cabinet, fixed into place and applied large pressure to make sure it was thoroughly stuck down then simply trimmed with a very sharp scalpel and finally sanded flush.
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Old 25th April 2007, 01:18 PM   #15
ShinOBIWAN is offline ShinOBIWAN  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally posted by slhijb
ShinOBIWAN - Very Very Awesome!!! Looks like a great solution. As with many other diyers, I've been struggling with this issue.
May I ask, what type and thickness of veneer do you recommend for painting?
Will be painting speakers a lacquer gloss "piano black". Using MDF for outer cabinets. Painting in an automotive paint booth pro spary gun.
Also, any special application techniques recommended for the veneer?
Hope you don't mind, Jim
Thanks.

It was the first time I tried this approach so I'm a little new to this myself. After the 3 weeks from initially, if you don't have very faint lines showing then you'll have nothing in the future and this is just that so I'm confident this is the best way I've found so far.

I used what was described as a 0.6mm veneer I measured it and it was 1mm however - quite thick for a veneer. I'm almost sure it was a Birch, actually no it was Birch(just checked). This veneer is good for this application because it has no heavy grain or figuring which cuts down on finishing work further. Its also stable, very flat and easy to trim using just scissors.

I mentioned a bit about the veneer application above. Its really very simple. I was somewhat scared off by the seemingly awkward shapes at first but after doing it, I couldn't believe how easy it was.
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Old 25th April 2007, 01:26 PM   #16
larksp is offline larksp  United Kingdom
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where do u buy some of the products from

i am in the uk 2 i will have to look for your other thread on these later
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Old 25th April 2007, 01:40 PM   #17
ShinOBIWAN is offline ShinOBIWAN  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally posted by larksp
where do u buy some of the products from

i am in the uk 2 i will have to look for your other thread on these later
I use Vale Veneers:

http://www.valeveneers.co.uk/iv.html
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Old 25th April 2007, 02:08 PM   #18
Paul W is offline Paul W  United States
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I have used shellac, first coat thinned with alcohol for better penetration, second coat also thinned but not so thin as the base coat.

One thing I discovered by accident is wood putty thinned with alcohol. I use it to smooth dents etc, but have noticed that a thin mix seems to seal MDF quite well. You might add that to the list of things you are comparing.
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Old 25th April 2007, 02:24 PM   #19
sploo is offline sploo  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally posted by ShinOBIWAN
Hi Sploo, good to see someone else exploring this. Its been a big issue for me and has cost me a lot of time.
Hi Ant, I was hoping you'd reply!

Yea, this MDF stuff is a real PITA to seal. I've just bought some Ronseal wood hardener to use for another round of experiments, though I do notice it states on the back that it's not to be used for sealing and priming.

I had considered some form of veneering, though I'm planning on creating some very 'curvy' cabinets, so I was unsure as to how practical that would be. Thought looking at the results you're getting, it might be the only way.

Because I don't think I made a particularly good job of glueing the discs together (just blobs of glue, instead of a nice brushed layer) I want to try using the epoxy again (as my first epoxy test piece still looks pretty good). I'll also test the wood hardener.

BTW Large images are preferred, at least from my POV - it's much better to see the detail than try to work out what's going on in a postage stamp

Paul W - wood putty + alcohol is an interesting idea. What products are you using?
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Old 25th April 2007, 07:59 PM   #20
Paul W is offline Paul W  United States
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It is "Elmers" brand wood filler...a yellow/tan paste. In the US, it is available in 1 pint plastic tubs from home improvement stores...you likely have something quite similar in the UK. Generic denatured alcohol is also available in home improvement stores.

Just rubbing a thin mix into end grain cuts seems to seal fairly well. Try it and let me know what you think.
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