Re: possible with RS 40-1354 or TangBand 3"?
A 1st approximation would be using Bob Brines ML-Voigt as a prototype.
http://geocities.com/rbrines1/Pages/Straight_Pipe.html
And if you are lucky enuff to have 4 drivers -- here i have bipole variations which could also be metronomed...
http://www.t-linespeakers.org/FALL/bipolar/index.html
Scott might often some alternatives -- i suspect a shorter one is doable.
dave
gychang said:
A 1st approximation would be using Bob Brines ML-Voigt as a prototype.
http://geocities.com/rbrines1/Pages/Straight_Pipe.html
And if you are lucky enuff to have 4 drivers -- here i have bipole variations which could also be metronomed...
http://www.t-linespeakers.org/FALL/bipolar/index.html
Scott might often some alternatives -- i suspect a shorter one is doable.
dave
Chang
those inexpensive Yamaha subs are actually VERY good. Some are sealed, the ported ones can be "upgraded" by sticking a nerf ball into the port, and they become very fast and musical subs.
These days bass is cheap it seems. You can buy bass at Costco, saving money for things like transformers, tubes, music, beer, etc.
those inexpensive Yamaha subs are actually VERY good. Some are sealed, the ported ones can be "upgraded" by sticking a nerf ball into the port, and they become very fast and musical subs.
These days bass is cheap it seems. You can buy bass at Costco, saving money for things like transformers, tubes, music, beer, etc.
Chang
I haven't started, don't got no wood, no in-clin-aaaa-tion, no ting be worry me maan... Tink: wintah projet...
they were playing, lying on two towels on the bench downstairs and sounding very, very musical. I also really like the FX120, this I suspect can become a refined sounding speaker after burn in and using symbiotic upstream components...like the $5 eBay Playstation ultra high end disc-spinner.
Both drivers are unreal with 6V6, 'specially the FX120. UbersynerG. I love combining the right ingredients. This case it is a '52 Bogen EX10 PP6V6, also from eBay Ultra Fi.
I haven't started, don't got no wood, no in-clin-aaaa-tion, no ting be worry me maan... Tink: wintah projet...
they were playing, lying on two towels on the bench downstairs and sounding very, very musical. I also really like the FX120, this I suspect can become a refined sounding speaker after burn in and using symbiotic upstream components...like the $5 eBay Playstation ultra high end disc-spinner.
Both drivers are unreal with 6V6, 'specially the FX120. UbersynerG. I love combining the right ingredients. This case it is a '52 Bogen EX10 PP6V6, also from eBay Ultra Fi.
I got my 35mm solid wood Metronomes, nicknamed the monuments, up and running today. The amount of bass caught me by surprise, and I had to bring them out a couple of feet from the wall. These babies really disappear.
I tried out some edge diffraction correction by taping an extra piece of angled wood to the sides at driver level, which created an octagon shape of the cab when viewed from above. Despite adding only 70mm to the overall width and nothing to the front baffle, the change in sonics what quite dramatic. I can't wait to measure the difference. I may make full length pieces for the sides, since the short ones really detracted from the great visual appeal of the cab, so they're off for the pic.
Sorry about the pic. Good ones to come after finish work is done.
Here's what I taped to the sides at driver level, and it gives you a better idea of what the cabs really look like.
I tried out some edge diffraction correction by taping an extra piece of angled wood to the sides at driver level, which created an octagon shape of the cab when viewed from above. Despite adding only 70mm to the overall width and nothing to the front baffle, the change in sonics what quite dramatic. I can't wait to measure the difference. I may make full length pieces for the sides, since the short ones really detracted from the great visual appeal of the cab, so they're off for the pic.
Sorry about the pic. Good ones to come after finish work is done.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Here's what I taped to the sides at driver level, and it gives you a better idea of what the cabs really look like.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Hi John
They look great and I'm thrilled that you like the sound.
I love the colour of that wood. You've got me thinking now about
building some nicer cabinets.
Imaging is definitely one of the strongest points of the Metronome speaker.
No doubt Scott and Dave will be along today as they have some baffle step correction circuits that might sort out the sound to deal with the fact that they are two feet from the rear wall.
In your typical Brit room full of carpets, heavy curtains and soft furnishings
my metronomes can be positioned about six inches from the rear wall but I now realise that in
a typical American room with a wood floor and a more live acoustic they might need a bit of correction.
Steve.
They look great and I'm thrilled that you like the sound.
I love the colour of that wood. You've got me thinking now about
building some nicer cabinets.
Imaging is definitely one of the strongest points of the Metronome speaker.
No doubt Scott and Dave will be along today as they have some baffle step correction circuits that might sort out the sound to deal with the fact that they are two feet from the rear wall.
In your typical Brit room full of carpets, heavy curtains and soft furnishings
my metronomes can be positioned about six inches from the rear wall but I now realise that in
a typical American room with a wood floor and a more live acoustic they might need a bit of correction.
Steve.
I'm sorry I was unclear. In my concrete room W3.5m x L6.5m I had to pull them out a couple of feet from the wall because they were a little boomy. It doesn't help that my listening position is a little too close to the rear wall.
The cabs are so narrow that the comb filtering of edge diffraction negates the need for BSC. Note that the pair of 108's I have in them have a coating on the dust cap, so the top end is slightly more mellow than a stock 108. I feel they need some damping behind the driver, because they do get a bit shouty at high volumes with rock music. As is they are surprisingly well balanced.
With those side plates on it's a totally different story. They definitely become top heavy with the filtering effect of edge diffraction gone. It made the top end more clean and clear, but also more prominent, and BSC would is needed. They sounded quite different in the critical range regardless of placement (even snug against the wall). That's why I can't wait to get into measuring.
They cabs are perfect for testing some different edge geometries. Olsen's work in this area is a guide, but I want to add subjective analysis both on and off axis with music to the scientific measurements. My knee jerk reaction is that squared edges for narrow cabs is a quite significant sonic compromise and the shape of the baffle edge is a major factor in required BSC.
Anyone with narrow cab speakers should test this themselves. Just take some 1ft pieces of 2"x6" and cut the 2" edges at 45 degrees instead of 90 to form a trapezoid if viewed from the end. Then tape them to the sides at driver level. The difference is not subtle.
The cabs are so narrow that the comb filtering of edge diffraction negates the need for BSC. Note that the pair of 108's I have in them have a coating on the dust cap, so the top end is slightly more mellow than a stock 108. I feel they need some damping behind the driver, because they do get a bit shouty at high volumes with rock music. As is they are surprisingly well balanced.
With those side plates on it's a totally different story. They definitely become top heavy with the filtering effect of edge diffraction gone. It made the top end more clean and clear, but also more prominent, and BSC would is needed. They sounded quite different in the critical range regardless of placement (even snug against the wall). That's why I can't wait to get into measuring.
They cabs are perfect for testing some different edge geometries. Olsen's work in this area is a guide, but I want to add subjective analysis both on and off axis with music to the scientific measurements. My knee jerk reaction is that squared edges for narrow cabs is a quite significant sonic compromise and the shape of the baffle edge is a major factor in required BSC.
Anyone with narrow cab speakers should test this themselves. Just take some 1ft pieces of 2"x6" and cut the 2" edges at 45 degrees instead of 90 to form a trapezoid if viewed from the end. Then tape them to the sides at driver level. The difference is not subtle.
FR-125 in Metronome?
Has anyone modeled the CSS FR-125 in the metronome? Might the slightly different loading characteristics of a quadratic taper be a better match for the high Q of this driver, relative to how the FR125 performs in a more typical ML-TL?
As always, enjoy the thinking that goes on here.
Regards, John
Has anyone modeled the CSS FR-125 in the metronome? Might the slightly different loading characteristics of a quadratic taper be a better match for the high Q of this driver, relative to how the FR125 performs in a more typical ML-TL?
As always, enjoy the thinking that goes on here.
Regards, John
johninCR said:
Very nice work on The Monuments. I'm not close to building
a work of this complexity but when I saw the Metronomes for the
first time, I thought of curving 2 sides with KerfCore.
How would that effect your measurements and modeling?
KerfKore has pre-cut scoring on its surface which allows bending to
a shallow arc. I've seen it used in some older issues of Speakerbuilder.
http://www.kerfkore.com/
The site has a demonstration page of how it is used.
gychang said:
Thanks, and great eye gychang! The sides of cab on the left haven't been planed yet and is 3mm wider than the other. They'll be identical twins at the end. I couldn't want to wait to give them a listen, and the drivers won't be mounted again until after the finish work is done, so it was the only chance for a pic for a while.
The requirement of a sub is going to be taste, room, and placement dependant. I listened for several hours last night with no sub, so they're quite useable without one. I like my bass deep and full, so for me no fullranger exists that doesn't need a sub. Plus relieving a fullranger of low bass duties makes it sound better. These don't control the cone as well as my Frugelhorns, so for playing loud the drivers need protection.
'xcuse the totally naive question, but if I take the dims for the bipole FE126e metronome shown here: http://www.planet10-hifi.com/metronome.html and cut the closed end area (So), and open end area (Sl) by half, but leave the L, driver offset (Zd) and port / terminus the same, will it work for a monopole FE127E Metronome? (My misses has seen the metronome and wants one, or two...)
Thanks, gus
Thanks, gus
