Folks,
I'm new here and to building speakers. However, I've bought a pair of full range drivers and need help on the enclosure build. Here are a few things I'd like to achieve:
I've checked out various sites on box calculations etc., however, don't understand fully the implications of the design choices. I was leaning towards a closed enclosure (being supposedly an easier build computationally) as the design is more forgiving. However, don't know whether I'll be achieving my goals. I'm asking for help since I don't know how to go about.
Here is the link to the drivers I bought with all the technical specs. I'd really be happy if someone could give me some guidance.
Thanks in advance for your help.
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/pr...hm-15-25W-51Hz-20KHz/1269413_32626952995.html
I'm new here and to building speakers. However, I've bought a pair of full range drivers and need help on the enclosure build. Here are a few things I'd like to achieve:
- Maximum is Monitor size, floor stander is not wanted
- Flat frequency response (60Hz-20Khz) as possible
- Very good imaging and dynamics
I've checked out various sites on box calculations etc., however, don't understand fully the implications of the design choices. I was leaning towards a closed enclosure (being supposedly an easier build computationally) as the design is more forgiving. However, don't know whether I'll be achieving my goals. I'm asking for help since I don't know how to go about.
Here is the link to the drivers I bought with all the technical specs. I'd really be happy if someone could give me some guidance.
Thanks in advance for your help.
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/pr...hm-15-25W-51Hz-20KHz/1269413_32626952995.html
Qt is really too high for vented box. It is also high enuff that any sealed box will be underdamped. I would’t do anything less than a 100 litre.
Given your goal for a standmount, and that you have already purchased the drivers, i would suggest building a box as large as you can live with, leave the back off (or drill lots of holes in it) and damp the hell out of it. ie a Hartley Boffle. http://p10hifi.net/tlinespeakers/forum/HiFi-Boffle-Article.pdf
dave
Given your goal for a standmount, and that you have already purchased the drivers, i would suggest building a box as large as you can live with, leave the back off (or drill lots of holes in it) and damp the hell out of it. ie a Hartley Boffle. http://p10hifi.net/tlinespeakers/forum/HiFi-Boffle-Article.pdf
dave
Ah, good, I'm viewing on my phone and they don't show up on the mobile version
Looks like a nice driver but I'd use it this way - which isn't what you really want but may be one of the better options.
https://speakerprojects.wordpress.com/2015/11/18/open-baffle-on-top-of-h-frame/
Otherwise I'd seal it up in whatever's size box you want and hide a powered subwoofer somewhere in the room.
https://speakerprojects.wordpress.com/2015/11/18/open-baffle-on-top-of-h-frame/
Otherwise I'd seal it up in whatever's size box you want and hide a powered subwoofer somewhere in the room.
A big Nautaloss would be a nice fit given the highish Qts - basically approximates a compact infinite baffle with zero coloration.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/247598-nautaloss-ref-monitor.html
Or maybe this:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/247598-nautaloss-ref-monitor.html
Or maybe this:
That would work well. Still need to be big (ie 100+ litre), so fails the design spec in that respect.
This is a case of trying to optimize performance in a box outside of the envelope of what they were designed for.
As ‘zilla has suggested these would be good midTweeters in an OB where the high Q becomes an advantage.
dave
Thanks folks for the responses. I`ve been reading up on your suggestions and links.
Was wondering if I were open to an open baffle design referenced by Godzilla, what should the dimensions of the baffle be (if that`s important) ?
Also was wondering if I need the bottom section (bottom part of the H frame ?) ? Sorry for my ignorance.
Also, the Nautaloss design seems good, however, the wood working would be pretty sophisticated unless there are some tricks to accomplish that shape.
Was wondering if I were open to an open baffle design referenced by Godzilla, what should the dimensions of the baffle be (if that`s important) ?
Also was wondering if I need the bottom section (bottom part of the H frame ?) ? Sorry for my ignorance.
Also, the Nautaloss design seems good, however, the wood working would be pretty sophisticated unless there are some tricks to accomplish that shape.
Thanks for the advise, I`ve been reading up on your suggestions and links. Some are too technical for me to understand though.
However, I`m open to an open baffle design suggested, but don`t understand an H frame. Also, do I just attach the drivers to say an 18` x 18 ` baffle and I`m done or need the bottom section ? Sorry for my ignorance.
Also, the Nautaloss design seemed interesting, but the wood work is pretty sophisticated. Are there any tricks that can lead me there ?
However, I`m open to an open baffle design suggested, but don`t understand an H frame. Also, do I just attach the drivers to say an 18` x 18 ` baffle and I`m done or need the bottom section ? Sorry for my ignorance.
Also, the Nautaloss design seemed interesting, but the wood work is pretty sophisticated. Are there any tricks that can lead me there ?
Whether intentional or naut, I think xrk's design was inspired by an early prototype during B&W's development of their flagship statement design.
Xrk is a huge fan of foamboard, which has a lot of advantages fabrication-wise . The short answer about how to achieve something like this with wood is - "if you have to ask, the answer might discourage you"
The rough prototype in bottom left of above photo would be in "rubber" ply - highly flexible, approx 1/4" thick. It's not particularly rigid structurally, but with a such a design, that is highly stuffed to attempt full absorption of rear wave, that might not be an impediment.
Dimensions of open baffles are generally contingent on the targeted low frequency performance. If you cross over anywhere above 300Hz or so, those dimensions can be reduced substantially. Even if the enclosure - or lack thereof - chosen for the Aucharm acoustically limits its bass performance, I think it'd still be a very good idea to High Pass filter it.
Xrk is a huge fan of foamboard, which has a lot of advantages fabrication-wise . The short answer about how to achieve something like this with wood is - "if you have to ask, the answer might discourage you"
The rough prototype in bottom left of above photo would be in "rubber" ply - highly flexible, approx 1/4" thick. It's not particularly rigid structurally, but with a such a design, that is highly stuffed to attempt full absorption of rear wave, that might not be an impediment.
Dimensions of open baffles are generally contingent on the targeted low frequency performance. If you cross over anywhere above 300Hz or so, those dimensions can be reduced substantially. Even if the enclosure - or lack thereof - chosen for the Aucharm acoustically limits its bass performance, I think it'd still be a very good idea to High Pass filter it.
Or, if you have a separate pre and power, you can use a linkwitz transform to fix the problems...
You can either use an analog version, as described here
Linkwitz Transform Subwoofer Equaliser
...or use a minidsp, and use the biquad spreadsheet to make the linkwitz transform.
Johan-Kr
You can either use an analog version, as described here
Linkwitz Transform Subwoofer Equaliser
...or use a minidsp, and use the biquad spreadsheet to make the linkwitz transform.
Johan-Kr
MV Model 3P OB Loudspeaker
That's as small and simple as you can go for an open baffle. Your baffle would have to be taller to accomodate your driver.
That's as small and simple as you can go for an open baffle. Your baffle would have to be taller to accomodate your driver.
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