My first ever foam core board construction. Mini karlsonators as well, using TC9FD's but after half day of work only one is done. I used almost all the glue sticks, so I need more to finish the second one.
Even in mono and having the speaker hooked on a bluetooth-TDA3116 combo playing from Spotify you can reckon the quality of the design. Not everything is carefully built and it was a lot to experiment, but I think this way of making speakers is really nice and rewarding.
I have purchased a Scalpel to continue with the next projects as the usual cutter is not really up to the task for the small/narrow portions of the builds.
Even in mono and having the speaker hooked on a bluetooth-TDA3116 combo playing from Spotify you can reckon the quality of the design. Not everything is carefully built and it was a lot to experiment, but I think this way of making speakers is really nice and rewarding.
I have purchased a Scalpel to continue with the next projects as the usual cutter is not really up to the task for the small/narrow portions of the builds.
Attachments
Here's a couple of quick ones, @xrk971:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I used the 0.53x plans that @MuddJester so painstakingly crafted for us.
For the batting inside, I salvaged some poly fill from a window quilt that had seen better days.
My DW provided the thin sheet batting for the inside of the front baffle. TBH, I messed up a little by setting the bottom panel inside the back panel, instead of the other way around, but I was able to trim here and there to get everything to fit. I forgot to add the brace for the front, but I am pretty happy with the sound as is.
Also, I learned a bit about cutting foam board; definitely a very acute razor knife is better (vs. the wide utility blade I have). I found that while one can cut only the top layer and 'pop' the rest of the way to the back, I prefer to make several shallow cuts as it is more likely to give a smooth edge.
I haven't secured the drivers with screws yet, but that didn't stop me from getting them going.
My next pair will be much nicer ;-).
Kind regards,
Drew
For the batting inside, I salvaged some poly fill from a window quilt that had seen better days.
My DW provided the thin sheet batting for the inside of the front baffle. TBH, I messed up a little by setting the bottom panel inside the back panel, instead of the other way around, but I was able to trim here and there to get everything to fit. I forgot to add the brace for the front, but I am pretty happy with the sound as is.
Also, I learned a bit about cutting foam board; definitely a very acute razor knife is better (vs. the wide utility blade I have). I found that while one can cut only the top layer and 'pop' the rest of the way to the back, I prefer to make several shallow cuts as it is more likely to give a smooth edge.
I haven't secured the drivers with screws yet, but that didn't stop me from getting them going.
My next pair will be much nicer ;-).
Kind regards,
Drew
Metallicus,
That looks great! Nice craftsmanship! Glad you enjoy the sound. Everyone does.
An X-acto works well too (pointy triangle blade).
Thanks @xrk971 also for bringing your ideas to us. The triangle blade knife just arrived and I will use it for the scoring part on the second loudspeaker. I already ordered two extra foam board packages.
Your image links are not coming through. Can you please upload to DIYA server and put link here? That way, the images are preserved with the thread in perpetuity.
Thanks,
X
W5-2143 Karlsonator
This is very strange. I think someone (maybe Twocents) asked me a few months ago to simulate the W5-2143 as a Karlsonator. I finally got around to it and came up with what I think is a nice predicted performance at 0.67x scale for height and depth, and 0.45x scale for width. A tallish speaker - but nice bass extension with F6 of 48Hz and flat as a board and 90.4dB sensitivity. I go to save the simulated response and find a directory on my hard drive with just the plans and a photo of a build by someone here on DIYA!? I search this thread and come up with nothing. I search google and come up with nothing. So I am posting someone else's build based on an earlier sim I did (which was a little smaller than 0.67x in height).
If you are the builder or the plan CAD person, please let me know. I feel like I must have gone crazy or my memory just isn't what it used to be.
My only explanation is that it was a series of emails and I never got around to posting it?
Here is the plan that someone made for the W5-2143:
Here is a photo of their build (looks like there was a redline by me of where the revised aperture should be):
Here is the new sim of a 0.67x H & D and 0.45x W Karlsonator for the W5-2143:
The plans for the above is also in pdf format attached below. I will have to take out my calculator to see what the scaling for the built one ended up at and re-run the sims.
Some calculations show that the plans above are approximately for 0.57x H and D and 0.51x W scale - not as tall looking. The sim is not as flat and not as ideal but has a bit more bass SPL but F6 of only 53Hz. Here is the simulation:
This is very strange. I think someone (maybe Twocents) asked me a few months ago to simulate the W5-2143 as a Karlsonator. I finally got around to it and came up with what I think is a nice predicted performance at 0.67x scale for height and depth, and 0.45x scale for width. A tallish speaker - but nice bass extension with F6 of 48Hz and flat as a board and 90.4dB sensitivity. I go to save the simulated response and find a directory on my hard drive with just the plans and a photo of a build by someone here on DIYA!? I search this thread and come up with nothing. I search google and come up with nothing. So I am posting someone else's build based on an earlier sim I did (which was a little smaller than 0.67x in height).
If you are the builder or the plan CAD person, please let me know. I feel like I must have gone crazy or my memory just isn't what it used to be.
My only explanation is that it was a series of emails and I never got around to posting it?
Here is the plan that someone made for the W5-2143:
Here is a photo of their build (looks like there was a redline by me of where the revised aperture should be):
Here is the new sim of a 0.67x H & D and 0.45x W Karlsonator for the W5-2143:
The plans for the above is also in pdf format attached below. I will have to take out my calculator to see what the scaling for the built one ended up at and re-run the sims.
Some calculations show that the plans above are approximately for 0.57x H and D and 0.51x W scale - not as tall looking. The sim is not as flat and not as ideal but has a bit more bass SPL but F6 of only 53Hz. Here is the simulation:
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![IMG_20191216_211041275[1].jpg](/community/data/attachments/740/740913-6c3712b57b710e25c7caa3f3ca92773b.jpg)
![IMG_20191216_211311991[1].jpg](/community/data/attachments/740/740929-9da85a6d757086b9e02822dd5f3615f0.jpg)
I am planning to fix the top edge as it's slightly ajar, but I got impatient and had to listen to them RIGHT NOW! heheheh
Sitting here now streaming a collection of Satie piano, and my DW and daughter both remarked, "My goodness, those sound great!". The drivers have maybe 25hrs, so they're prolly still opening up.
Thanks again for a blockbuster thread!
Kind regards,
Drew
hehehehSitting here now streaming a collection of Satie piano, and my DW and daughter both remarked, "My goodness, those sound great!". The drivers have maybe 25hrs, so they're prolly still opening up.
Thanks again for a blockbuster thread!
Kind regards,
Drew
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I finalized the second one as well, not so accurate if you see the aperture but the sound is really good. However if I play them loud the speakers start to move around as they are too easy [emoji3]
Probably it is good to stick them to a piece of a heavy wood or something similar... Am I the only one with this issue?
I have same problem and the fix is to use something like a grippy foam mesh shelving liner pads on the bottom to give it some friction. They call them anti-slip liners:
https://www.amazon.com/Anti-Slip-Mat-Non-Skid-Drawer/dp/B07VZPM2TB/ref=asc_df_B07VZPM2TB/
Have fun watching them dance to the edge of the desk/plinth then slap a stack of books on top
Stick on Velcro tabs has also been a suggestion previously
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A heavy book on top did the trick for me.
On another note, X, I tried your suggestion of tipping the mini-k’s forward to raise the sound stage. I used a couple of CD cases. What a difference! I also tried making a quick speaker stand out of scrap 2x12 I had laying around. The jury is still out on that one. I might be happy with just the tipping forward. I feel that this simple modification not only raised the sound stage but it improved imaging and vocals. The speakers disappear even more than before as well. Thanks again for the suggestion X! I think this is something everyone should try with their mini k’s and see if they like the result.
On another note, X, I tried your suggestion of tipping the mini-k’s forward to raise the sound stage. I used a couple of CD cases. What a difference! I also tried making a quick speaker stand out of scrap 2x12 I had laying around. The jury is still out on that one. I might be happy with just the tipping forward. I feel that this simple modification not only raised the sound stage but it improved imaging and vocals. The speakers disappear even more than before as well. Thanks again for the suggestion X! I think this is something everyone should try with their mini k’s and see if they like the result.
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