Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list

Simon

I think you're absolutely right about source being of high importance.

C**p in, c**p out is the motto i believe.

I started by changing the amp from a Kenwood 3020SE to the PM66Ki, then modded the 66, then started modding the CDP.

I can honestly say that the largest gains have been with the source.
The other changes have been subtle, except with the headphones - major leap from Beyer DT220's (old) and less so with the speakers (Mission 730's).

Transducers seem to be the most influential parts of the chain.

Having said that the pre amp would probably make more difference than the power amp.

Jim
 
SimontY said:
Ray,

Shoot me! I made an educated guess with the attenuater. I've tried a few pots and found so little difference I assume they can't sound all that different to a couple of resistors. Maybe I was being too simplistic.

No problem, mate ;)

The difference is the way all the pots are built: more or less the same setup with a wiper that 'scrapes' across a conductive track. A stepper-switch is a whole different approach: a (hopefully) high-end switch with gold plated contacts and only two cool resistors that make up a voltage divider. Sounds quite nice if I say so myself :cool:

Ray
 

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Re: Re: Discrete output

jimh0612 said:


Hi Ray/Simon

I've been looking at the parts list for Simon's version of the discrete outputstage as compared with Ray's.

How much difference do you think the components would make to the overall sound and why?

Regards

Jim


SimontY said:


Different parts seem to sound different, but I can't answer the why part. I think the psu decoupling caps and regulators will make much more difference than the resistors used.

Simon

Yes of course different resistors and caps alter the sound but I find the large improvement comes from the regulators and psu feeding it, and second the caps (eg 220uf BG std) change the sound alot. Both these alter the sound much more.

I have of course tested quite abit with the discrete pcbs and they have a large bandwidth compared to opamps, If you feed noise into them you get noise out (altered sound).

The SPower regulators I use are very fast response and if I use no or a very little cap (10nF) across the feedback resistor the discrete pcb will emit hiss (like a tape deck), opamps remove this higher freq.

Audiocom superregs and Qpower by comparison have a slower response time and don't create hiss on this pcb, they have a larger cap on the feedback which slugs down the response of the reg.

So basically what i'm saying is use as good a power supply as you can

Brent
 
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jimh0612 said:

He swore by his Linn Sondek LP12 with a Stanton cartridge and a huge McIntosh valve amp.

I remember long listening sessions late into the night feeling like I was listening to live music, something I haven't felt yet on my equipment.

Hi Jim

You must take in consideration that your Fathers system was "Analog" and should produce a continuity in the sound that is impossible to get with a digital system.

I have an Ariston Turntable with SME 3009 and a Benz.... my CD 53 is already half modded and I can hear info not normally heard with a stock CD player but everytime I switch to the Benz.... well, music starts to really invade my room.

I believe it is a question of definition and continuity, only possible in analog systems (Tapes included)

Regards

Ricardo
 
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6h5c said:


Hi Jim,

The main reason for that is the Holcos are metal film and the Kiwames carbon film; doesn't necessarily have anything to do with the brand.

Ray
Hi Ray

I am following your modds in my CD53SE and would like to try some Kiwames.

Can you please inform me what would be the best power rating to choose ?

Also, can you give me gidance to where can I find these resistors ?

Regards

Ricardo
 
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Hi Ray

Just replaced the digital psu reg from 7805 1,0A 20W to LM340AT-5,0 NSC (412-703) Bipolar linear Voltage regulator type:positive Fixed +5v 1,0A.

This produces more deep bass with control... really good to feed my BIG Caps (580000uF Sprague powerlytic+470000uF NEC supercap+3600pF ERO KP1832 5% 1.2kv+2700pF NSF Styrofoam + 3u3 AVX Tantalum).

BIG difference..... Thank you for the precise info :)wiz: :wiz: :wiz: )

Best regards

Ricardo
 
RCruz said:
Hi Ray

Can you please inform me what would be the best power rating to choose ?

Also, can you give me gidance to where can I find these resistors ?

Regards

Ricardo

Well, since the choice is between 2W or 5W, it shouldn't be that difficult ;). I get them from Percy Audio or Partsconnexion, both in the U.S.

SimontY said:
Do you really need 1 farad of capacitance? I never thought I'd say this but... that sounds like overkill! :devilr:

Glad to hear your sound is still coming along!

Simon

Nah, it's that extra 2700pF that does it :D

Ray
 
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6h5c said:

Nah, it's that extra 2700pF that does it :D

Ray

This is really a special and rare case of special cap..!!!
2700pF/500Volt 2,5% 9x23 Styrofoam NSF axial Made in 1960 !Quote"NSF Styrofoam cap is unequaled in the reproduction of color. These are much better than similar caps"

Can you suggest an European distributor for the resistors ?

Sometimes, when I receive a package from America, it gets stuck in the customs and I always pay more in taxes then the total cost of the parts....:hot: :hot:

Ricardo
 
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SimontY said:

Do you really need 1 farad of capacitance? I never thought I'd say this but... that sounds like overkill! :devilr:

Glad to hear your sound is still coming along!
Thanks Simon

This regulator was really important.... I did not realize it before.

The BIG caps follow imediately and these where my first mod and the reason why I found this excelent Forum.

The BIG caps alone, give the player an enormous power in the bass and extreme extencion in the trebble (without distortion).

Adding the Schottkys and the new Reg did the Magic.... I am hearing good sound again... :magnify:

Thanks to you all..!

Ricardo