Anyone interested in going further, I found a mine of info at this Japanese site. It refers to the Marantz CD-34, but the circuit is the familiar one found in the CD104.
http://www.geocities.jp/tochey_2000/cdp14.html
http://www.geocities.jp/tochey_2000/cdp15.html
http://www.geocities.jp/tochey_2000/cdp16.html
http://www.geocities.jp/tochey_2000/cdp17.html
http://www.geocities.jp/tochey_2000/cdp18.html
http://www.geocities.jp/tochey_2000/cdp14.html
http://www.geocities.jp/tochey_2000/cdp15.html
http://www.geocities.jp/tochey_2000/cdp16.html
http://www.geocities.jp/tochey_2000/cdp17.html
http://www.geocities.jp/tochey_2000/cdp18.html
I Have a CD300, has presumably same servo and decoder pcb. Can try some of that mods too. All the mods are understandable, except 1 thing: removing rubber dampers underneath CDM-0 into rigid lathed ones?? 
Where's that for? Far eastern logic i presume (joke)
For the shown reclock my thoughts are: not divide 16,xxx Mhz, but use a kwak 7 and put the original 4,xxx Mhz cristal on it.
Where's that for? Far eastern logic i presume (joke)For the shown reclock my thoughts are: not divide 16,xxx Mhz, but use a kwak 7 and put the original 4,xxx Mhz cristal on it.
Just connected the CD300 and play now some music, the bass is tremendous!!
Unfortuately it has some tracking problems, sometimes a noise is hearable at full scale, lets me jump from my chair! (volumepot is at 5 o clock) So have to resolder connections first.
And now it stopped and doesn't start anymore.....
Unfortuately it has some tracking problems, sometimes a noise is hearable at full scale, lets me jump from my chair! (volumepot is at 5 o clock) So have to resolder connections first.
And now it stopped and doesn't start anymore.....
Hi.
The important thing to do on ALL early boards CD100, 101, 104, 300,303 etc (which use very similar boards) is to solder wires through the ground plane links.
As standard, they rely on the through-hole plating which fails!
This failure causes all sorts of problems including several already mentioned in this thread.
Andy
The important thing to do on ALL early boards CD100, 101, 104, 300,303 etc (which use very similar boards) is to solder wires through the ground plane links.
As standard, they rely on the through-hole plating which fails!
This failure causes all sorts of problems including several already mentioned in this thread.
Andy
tubee said:All the mods are understandable, except 1 thing: removing rubber dampers underneath CDM-0 into rigid lathed ones??
For the shown reclock my thoughts are: not divide 16,xxx Mhz, but use a kwak 7 and put the original 4,xxx Mhz cristal on it.
yes some of the mods seem a bit odd. I don't see the purpose of removing the transport decoupling. Perhaps the rubber was hardened with age ? he also replaces the DC blockers with OSCONS, where I think either bipolar or better, no cap should be used B. But the clock changes and other stuff are interesting. Google have a beta Japanese to English translation page which does help a bit
more ideas from the east
This guy limits his mods to new interconnects and some mass damping. Nice pictures (again)
http://www1-1.kcn.ne.jp/~gx770/CD34.htm
This guy limits his mods to new interconnects and some mass damping. Nice pictures (again)
http://www1-1.kcn.ne.jp/~gx770/CD34.htm
Nice site. This guy doesn't want to hurt his hands on de headsink, made a bar around it!
I don't wanna do much on my CD300 either. A clock, better output caps and some phono chassis connections, some new lytics, thats should be all. Muting is nicely done with reed-relais.
I don't wanna do much on my CD300 either. A clock, better output caps and some phono chassis connections, some new lytics, thats should be all. Muting is nicely done with reed-relais.
My suspension from 300 + 304 are still soft.
Just opened the CD300, cannot find any soldered connections from upper to bottom pcb. They have grey flat pinned conectors instead. The pcb's are bigger then from the 104, so not the same.
Mains transformer is very peculiar, never seen that before: an air gap of +/- 5 mm between primairy and secundairy winding, you can look straight through it!
Coupling caps are still needed, will be directly connected to the grid of first tube.
So the earth screens are connected to each other by the screws? A weak point then.
Mains transformer is very peculiar, never seen that before: an air gap of +/- 5 mm between primairy and secundairy winding, you can look straight through it!
Coupling caps are still needed, will be directly connected to the grid of first tube.
So the earth screens are connected to each other by the screws? A weak point then.
The pcb's of 300 has no screen, there is a small pcb on decoder pcb wich has an earth-screen with 4 Sony chips and some logic.
A separate clock will probably not bring a lot of improvement in cd300 imo, because the cristal has about 6 logic chips around it to re-distribute the clock signals. Have on other pc the service manual, will check this first.
A separate clock will probably not bring a lot of improvement in cd300 imo, because the cristal has about 6 logic chips around it to re-distribute the clock signals. Have on other pc the service manual, will check this first.
well I dsimanteledthe 104 a final time to just recheck my work (by eye). Took the top off and the bottom. Turned it over and just rechecked my work.Put it all back together and powered it up. Lights come on but the ominous double 00, accompanied by two faint wirrs as it tries and fails to read the TOC. Have tried waiting for the warfm up period but this time nothing, same problem.
So :
1) I'll be replacing all the through rivet solder points
2) I'll disconnect and reconnect all cabls.
3) My cap replacement on the server board does not appear to have fixed the problem as I had previoulsy thought
Hi there,
I was given a CD104 a while ago and it's been a love/hate relationship ever since. Initially it worked only after warming up then not at all,then spinning the cd rapidly as soon as turned on i.e no clock signal. I have just spent a couple of hours doing the recommended mods, and a couple of others and finally she works correctly! It is DEFINITELY worth replacing all of the solder through links on the decoder pcb. I desoldered first and then drilled through with a 2mm drill bit, then I used sections of solid wire from some old caps I don't need and soldered them through. I also replaced the two caps nearest the audio out solder points with 47uf 35v ones. I have also fitted good quality chassis phono connectors so that I can try different interconnects. I have also replaced all of the caps on the psu pcb. The end result is very pleasing! Very similar to my Cambridge Audio CD2 in fact. I love the warm lush sound with slightly round treble and lifelike mid range. They are really worth persevering with! They are far too good for the tip so if anyone is tempted to do that let me know and I'd be interested in the old player.
Good luck with yours.
Mat
I was given a CD104 a while ago and it's been a love/hate relationship ever since. Initially it worked only after warming up then not at all,then spinning the cd rapidly as soon as turned on i.e no clock signal. I have just spent a couple of hours doing the recommended mods, and a couple of others and finally she works correctly! It is DEFINITELY worth replacing all of the solder through links on the decoder pcb. I desoldered first and then drilled through with a 2mm drill bit, then I used sections of solid wire from some old caps I don't need and soldered them through. I also replaced the two caps nearest the audio out solder points with 47uf 35v ones. I have also fitted good quality chassis phono connectors so that I can try different interconnects. I have also replaced all of the caps on the psu pcb. The end result is very pleasing! Very similar to my Cambridge Audio CD2 in fact. I love the warm lush sound with slightly round treble and lifelike mid range. They are really worth persevering with! They are far too good for the tip so if anyone is tempted to do that let me know and I'd be interested in the old player.
Good luck with yours.
Mat
This site, sadly dead, appears to have a nice summary of the fixing through-the-board rivets or griplets issue.
http://72.14.207.104/search?q=cache...ets&hl=en&gl=uk&ct=clnk&cd=2&client=firefox-a
http://72.14.207.104/search?q=cache...ets&hl=en&gl=uk&ct=clnk&cd=2&client=firefox-a
matski said:
Thanks.
Q: I took a look at the servo board. In addition to 2 obvious solder hills covering griplets, I noticed that a couple of the axial caps and at least two wire links had large solder mounds at one end. Do these also cover griplets and should these also receive the treatment ?