Philips CD104 tweaks

jives11 said:


Thanks.

Q: I took a look at the servo board. In addition to 2 obvious solder hills covering griplets, I noticed that a couple of the axial caps and at least two wire links had large solder mounds at one end. Do these also cover griplets and should these also receive the treatment ?

See attachment. I think I have marked all the gripleta and through holes.

Andy
 

Attachments

  • servo.jpg
    servo.jpg
    51.3 KB · Views: 3,704
BTW - while the lid is off I want to try and fix a problem with the drawer mostly not fully retracting. The poor thing has to be helped to close. I'm guessing this is the rubber belt from the motor to the sled mechanism slipping.

Has anyone found a cure ? The belt appears to be tricky to remove without taking aprt the whole motor casework.
 
jives11 said:
BTW - while the lid is off I want to try and fix a problem with the drawer mostly not fully retracting. The poor thing has to be helped to close. I'm guessing this is the rubber belt from the motor to the sled mechanism slipping.

Has anyone found a cure ? The belt appears to be tricky to remove without taking aprt the whole motor casework.


This fault rectifies itself with heavy use.
 
poynton said:


Yep , it is tight for space !!!

I will make a mock-up tomorrow and post the photos.


Andy


OK - I have cheated a little but it is possible ! ( for one thing, I did not build it!)

Using circuit similar to :-

http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/nuukspot/decdun/cd723vosdiagrams.html

Or the web page above,



The board will fit under the Decoder PCB - over 1cm of room - on stand offs fixed to the ground plane. The largest component is the output cap but that depends on your choice.

If the opamps and associated components are removed, you get more space. As the output muting is by relay, I am in 2 minds as to whether they should be removed or not!

Obviously, the existing output cable will be removed and replaced with Quality sockets.
 

Attachments

  • board.jpg
    board.jpg
    29.3 KB · Views: 2,490