I am running 1.41. For me it was the slave, master amp set to 'auto source', inputting via optical. I had been listening to the amps/speakers for an hour or so when it happened, thankfully I was present and able to quickly disconnect everything, otherwise there may have been a real chance of a fire from my speaker, the burnt smell was quite potent.
Soon I will remove the woofer and inspect the damage, but I'm sure it's dead; the cone is 'frozen' and doesn't move at all without major force.
Regarding reading about blown up drivers after hypex amplifiers fail, I decide to add DC speaker protection and turn-on delay circuit.
Just to be shure.
Will go with this one ;
Ready-to-Run (RTR) SSR DC Speaker Protection and Delay GB
And will use it only on tweeter driver powered by NC100HF (NC250MP+NC100HF)
Now, could some one pint me out where to find suitable power supply for additional DC protection PCB ?
DC protection PCB from above requires > +19vdc
Should I use PIN1 on H-Channel extension connector which is labeled as HV+ Positive power supply (on NC250MP) ?
and PIN3 for GND(that is connector labeled as J7 on picture)
thanks
Just to be shure.
Will go with this one ;
Ready-to-Run (RTR) SSR DC Speaker Protection and Delay GB
And will use it only on tweeter driver powered by NC100HF (NC250MP+NC100HF)
Now, could some one pint me out where to find suitable power supply for additional DC protection PCB ?
DC protection PCB from above requires > +19vdc
Should I use PIN1 on H-Channel extension connector which is labeled as HV+ Positive power supply (on NC250MP) ?
and PIN3 for GND(that is connector labeled as J7 on picture)
thanks
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Please inform us further about your approach. Gladly also in more detail.
I will probably switch to FusionAmp FA253 and I am a bit worried about my expensive chassis due to the "unreliable" hypex.
While a dc protection circuit will save the tweeter from dc, it will not protect it from excessive amounts of LF - for instance high power sweeps without lowpass filters, or crosseyed connection.
Use a protection cap -that’s much safer.
It’s not idiot proof, because as soon as someone invents anything idiot proof, someone else comes up with a better idiot...
Johan-Kr
Use a protection cap -that’s much safer.
It’s not idiot proof, because as soon as someone invents anything idiot proof, someone else comes up with a better idiot...
Johan-Kr
I just got my pair of FA253 amps up and running. I spent yesterday and today refining the filters, and I am pretty happy with the results. After I get them into the final position I will make more measurements and do additional voicing / tweaking...
I had no problems. I am using analog inputs via RCA connectors, so both amps are configured as "master".
The HFD_4.95_Help.pdf has more detail than the previous version. Be sure you get the latest.
Jim
I had no problems. I am using analog inputs via RCA connectors, so both amps are configured as "master".
The HFD_4.95_Help.pdf has more detail than the previous version. Be sure you get the latest.
Jim
Jea, I'm awere of that...
But for now I'm not afraid of swapping channels or so...
When I make changes in crossover I always do it on low volumes and sometimes I use old car full range driver to check if everything is fine before I connect actual drivers.
I just need DC protection...
Until i burn something
and then I will look for solution with capacitor
But for now this will do
You dont see regular nc252mp based amps failing, so an assumption is that using all those aux voltages put too much stress on the smps
Fwiw my master module that finally failed has always been a bit hotter to the touch that the slave module. Ive mentioned this to Hypex, said it was regular..
Fwiw my master module that finally failed has always been a bit hotter to the touch that the slave module. Ive mentioned this to Hypex, said it was regular..
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Hi!
I apologize if it has been in the thread before, I tried to search.
I have a problem that when I for example mute treble and bass and start to work with the midrange filter, after a while they got unmuted automatically, so when I want to do a measurement on the midrange, all elements are unmuted and I have to go in and mute them again to get a midrange only measurement.
Is there a way to mute permanent until I manually unmute ? I find this quite disturbing
It is Fusion 253 and Clio pocket for the measurement.
Br
I apologize if it has been in the thread before, I tried to search.
I have a problem that when I for example mute treble and bass and start to work with the midrange filter, after a while they got unmuted automatically, so when I want to do a measurement on the midrange, all elements are unmuted and I have to go in and mute them again to get a midrange only measurement.
Is there a way to mute permanent until I manually unmute ? I find this quite disturbing
It is Fusion 253 and Clio pocket for the measurement.
Br
When I want to mute a channel (semi)permanently, I set the gain of that channel to -96dB.
I used to put -99dB there, but that is lower than the -96dB the FusionAmp shows in HFD when it is muted. The -99dB gain may cause a red blinking LED on the plate amp when the softlimiter is enabled. I had that once but did not have an opportunity to investigate that further. The -96dB gives no problems.
I used to put -99dB there, but that is lower than the -96dB the FusionAmp shows in HFD when it is muted. The -99dB gain may cause a red blinking LED on the plate amp when the softlimiter is enabled. I had that once but did not have an opportunity to investigate that further. The -96dB gives no problems.
For live outdoor sound, you want something very rugged and OK sound, not something with state of art measurement results.
The FusionAmps typically have a continuous output power rating of 1/5th of their rated output power and this is specified at 25 degrees C with the requirement to apply sufficient cooling.
Athough this is fine for domestic use you probably need amplifiers with higher continuous output power rating for your application.
Athough this is fine for domestic use you probably need amplifiers with higher continuous output power rating for your application.
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Can anyone explain if this means I can correct for phase in a LR 2nd order crossover in the hypex fusion? Does this mean I just reverse the polarity between the bass and tweeter to correct the phase response of the crossover?
If the acoustical slopes are following enough the LR2 curves and the drivers are aligned in time, then one of the drivers needs a reversed polarity, this fixes the phase too. All this can be done in HFD.
Can I move phase around dynamically other than full 180 deg or more?
The reason I ask is I'm trying to improve the impulse response of my speaker design, using a PC and RePhase, but assume I cannot fix phase issues in the crossover region. This would have to be done in the Fusion unit.
Am I right in saying when IIR filters are used in Fusion, it change the phase of the output?