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#1 |
diyAudio Member
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It is well known that the GainCard amp started a new trend in diy circles and many tried to copy the design, if not the chassis construction then at least the circuitry. My first amp was also very much influenced by the Card and I thought initially that this is as far as one could go with the design.
However, after experimenting with different chassis built and more esoteric construction methods, it seems like the original concept can be further improved. After the controversy thread on AA, I was also bugged by Yoshi Segoshi of Sakura Systems to come up with something more original than merely a copy of the 47Labs amp and to create a Patek of GC amps, while Gaincard would still be a Rolex. ![]() So here's my attempt at Patek amp. It uses similar size as Card, but it's slightly higher. I know it doesn't look very sexy, but the main concern was to achieve the mastery in the sound and not in the looks.
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#2 | |
diyAudio Member
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I always listen to a good advice and also this time a quote from Thorsten gave some ideas for a new approach:
Quote:
The size is about 5" x 6" and it's 2.5" high (excluding spikes)
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#3 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Dortmund, Germany
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EDIT: I was too fast, insights are coming in...!
Hi! But in what ways does it differ exactly from the original GC concept, or the "improved inverted GC concept" developed by you and members of this forum? Don't just show off you chassis building capabilities ![]() Circuitry? Chip (do I dare to ask? I assume that the LM3875 is still being used on this one)? ![]() Shed some light! Bye, Arndt
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#4 |
diyAudio Member
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Here's the better detail of the main bar. I used a similar method to attach the chip as in my monoblocks as this seems to work very well. The parts include Caddock for feedback and some Vishays for input and ground connection.
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#5 |
diyAudio Member
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I chose to use the best parts here and this amp features BG N caps. The wooden sides create the capacitor clamps. They are shielded with mu-metal strips.
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#6 |
diyAudio Member
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I didn't drill the convection channels through bronze slab, as from my experience the GC doesn't normally run that hot and I preferred to use top and bottom covers for a complete look. Here I used a perforated, ultralight aluminum panels. They shouldn't affect the sound in any way, as I know from other members, that this may be problematic. Their surface also helps to dissipate more heat and the holes keep the inside cooler. As usually, i'm using those brass spikes, as I get them pretty cheap and they sound good. One spike in a back, right in a place where the chips are mounted.
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#7 |
diyAudio Member
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The rear panel is pretty straightforward and the only upgrade from my usual stuff are Kimber RCA jacks. I didn't implement volume control in this amp, as I want to use it as two channel monoblock for bi-amped system.
For stereo operation, I will come up with a support platform, containing PS and volume control with source switcher. I want to be more original this time ![]() Also titanium, aircraft screws are used.
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#8 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Dortmund, Germany
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What is the small input cap you use? Not the BG you used in your amps before, but what else?
I like the approach of using more wood. Even if it means using some additional shielding material. For a cheaper approach I just used on an amp of mine some oak shielded with cheap PCB material (those PCB-material meant for etching your own boards, just without etching). Wood is great. Even I can work on it ![]() But what I also like is the concept of using a thick metal bar in the middle of the amp. Never thought pf that before (normally everybody attaches power devices to the "outside walls" of an amp, with inverted symmetry for stereo amps. This approach is nice....
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#9 | |
diyAudio Member
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Coming back to Thorsten quote:
Quote:
And if you would decide on a review, there shouldn't be any confilct of interests, as this amp is non inverting ![]() Jokes aside, thanks for good suggestions. ![]()
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#10 | |
diyAudio Member
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Quote:
I'm not using any small coupling caps. Signal goes directly through 244 ohm Vishay to + input. Feedback is 22k Caddock, another 22k vishay from + to ground and temporarily (for lack of anything better around) 655ohm Holco setting the gain.
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Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Trying to improve on an Input Chooser concept | Peter Daniel | Chip Amps | 62 | 25th February 2004 04:55 AM |
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