I have some speakers that are almost done and I need to figure out the binding posts situation. They are veneered in cherry. I'd like something visually fancy. Speak on is my usual go to but it's gonna look kinda crap with these speakers. They are a 3 way with separate boxes for each driver but the tweeter doesn't need a set of posts.
I was looking at PE's posts and their plates for them, but the costs really add up super quick and they seem like they have a lot of metal, which I heard isn't ideal.
Thanks dudes.
I was looking at PE's posts and their plates for them, but the costs really add up super quick and they seem like they have a lot of metal, which I heard isn't ideal.
Thanks dudes.
My favourite:
Buget not an issue: ETO or WBT NextGen.
Medium price (amplifieer posts really, one needs to make a mounting plat e(or steal the plastic cup from the budget favourites.
These budget ones are what we used most, surprisingly good, better than the same with metal nuts, the 2” holes in the box was the smallest ones could get.
dave
Buget not an issue: ETO or WBT NextGen.
Medium price (amplifieer posts really, one needs to make a mounting plat e(or steal the plastic cup from the budget favourites.
These budget ones are what we used most, surprisingly good, better than the same with metal nuts, the 2” holes in the box was the smallest ones could get.
dave
IMHO the best binding posts aren't binding posts...these are far superior.
SpeakOn Connectors
I won't use anything else.
Mike
SpeakOn Connectors
I won't use anything else.
Mike
You nailed it man.visually fancey and they will charge you for it. Speaker on are on the money. Cleaver and very functional but not pretty and not expensive.mmm
Please note that without a mentioning or a quoting your comment seems to be wrongly aimed at my post, rather than that of @Michael Bean . 😉
Pomona. I have been using them for decades. Makes for safe & quick speaker swaps.
dave
150 euro for a pair?? That's absolutely ridiculous, I have 30 cm wire sticking out of my speakers, for soldering, much better and much cheaper
Costs me more to machine, rhodium plate, get the rest of the materials, and spend time on assembly.
Wbt mentioned here are up there as well, more costly depending on which one you pick.
And there is a factor of OCD 🙂
Wbt mentioned here are up there as well, more costly depending on which one you pick.
And there is a factor of OCD 🙂
Yeah, that's where I'm at. I come from the live world anyway and all these binding posts just look like they wanna take my money for something worse. NL4MPR it is.
$180 usd for four binding posts is just scam territory.
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I would like to start by saying that I take the maintenance of good sound quality very seriously in any aspect I can or I am able to intervene,
It's obvious that you don't change cables and/or loudspeakers often, otherwise it would be an uncomfortable practice.
Anyway your idea - which I take seriously - arose from your need for certainty, of course.
I too sometimes have similar needs and if any then I turn to high quality objects for this.
High quality is a serious topic and costs (much) more money.
However I believe that on many occasions the crimped cable offers a better chance of maintaining a good SQ than a "heavy" solder as long as the related connectors are of high quality of construction, materials and design, and expertise.
We have no certainty that a certainty will remain valid forever.
Just my opinion.
I've never heard of anything like that before, but I found it interesting.
It's obvious that you don't change cables and/or loudspeakers often, otherwise it would be an uncomfortable practice.
Anyway your idea - which I take seriously - arose from your need for certainty, of course.
I too sometimes have similar needs and if any then I turn to high quality objects for this.
High quality is a serious topic and costs (much) more money.
However I believe that on many occasions the crimped cable offers a better chance of maintaining a good SQ than a "heavy" solder as long as the related connectors are of high quality of construction, materials and design, and expertise.
We have no certainty that a certainty will remain valid forever.
Just my opinion.
Works really well but hard to swap speakers. Easier would be to run the wire out, and cinch it down together with a bare wire terminated speaker wire.
ETI & WBT ar eabout that i think. And therre are a lot worse for simialr prices (ie the ones on the back of my SIT-3, i’d swap them if it wasn’t a collectores item)
dave
These are what I use at the amp end as well as the external crossovers I've built. Feels like quality goods and the free spinning ferrule is a nice feature. Not cheap but won't break the bank either.
Binding Posts
https://www.parts-express.com/SSP A...ault.jpg?resizeid=104&resizeh=600&resizew=600
Binding Posts
https://www.parts-express.com/SSP A...ault.jpg?resizeid=104&resizeh=600&resizew=600
I've always liked these Dayton's from Parts Express as they're long enough to go through thick cabinets without using a terminal cup. They come in gold, nickel and satin nickel versions and are $10 per pair.
Dayton BPA-38 gold
Dayton BPA-38 nickel
Dayton BPA-38 satin nickel
Dayton BPA-38 gold
Dayton BPA-38 nickel
Dayton BPA-38 satin nickel
Seems that has been forgotten.
Even 1950s terminal strips had an anti-rotation feature for open lugs.
Although you could also use it to keep bare wire from rotating when tightened, as well.
Even 1950s terminal strips had an anti-rotation feature for open lugs.
Although you could also use it to keep bare wire from rotating when tightened, as well.
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I use some thick silver plate binding posts from Ali that are less than $20 for a quad set. They are very heavy duty and good looking(if that matters). They’re silver over brass so non magnetic. I then use silver plated banana plugs. It’s a tight enough fit to keep air out of the connection so it doesn’t corrode.