Still here, waiting on parts. I didn't have the urge to jump into the off topic stuff.
You know indianajo,
All I said was that you should repair equipment properly. That's all. In order to do so, you need a certain minimum amount and type of equipment. Sorry, but that is reality.
Do i have a lot invested? Heck yeah, I do. But I work on everything from old stuff to new, high performance equipment. Does an older amp get less care and attention? No, nor should it. I'm working on an ancient Fosgate PR-2100 right now. It is being serviced correctly and it will last while exceeding the specifications of a new one. So, should I make it "work" and not worry about performance? I got it running, and found problems with performance. You would have kicked it back as working properly, but it isn't yet. It would have eventually failed again and never delivered the performance it was designed to. It isn't the best designed amplifier, but at the time there wasn't much around.
You want to call me elitist? Go ahead, but I am not. I merely ensure equipment is working correctly. I owe anyone who asks me to repair something that much. It is what they expect after all. SO unless you can prove equipment is in fact working properly, you are in no position to tell anyone it works properly.
All I am doing is letting people know how to do it right. Not unless you would like your dental work, home repair or anything else done slap-dash. Together, but not right so someone else down the line has to get it done again. Do better.
All I said was that you should repair equipment properly. That's all. In order to do so, you need a certain minimum amount and type of equipment. Sorry, but that is reality.
Do i have a lot invested? Heck yeah, I do. But I work on everything from old stuff to new, high performance equipment. Does an older amp get less care and attention? No, nor should it. I'm working on an ancient Fosgate PR-2100 right now. It is being serviced correctly and it will last while exceeding the specifications of a new one. So, should I make it "work" and not worry about performance? I got it running, and found problems with performance. You would have kicked it back as working properly, but it isn't yet. It would have eventually failed again and never delivered the performance it was designed to. It isn't the best designed amplifier, but at the time there wasn't much around.
You want to call me elitist? Go ahead, but I am not. I merely ensure equipment is working correctly. I owe anyone who asks me to repair something that much. It is what they expect after all. SO unless you can prove equipment is in fact working properly, you are in no position to tell anyone it works properly.
All I am doing is letting people know how to do it right. Not unless you would like your dental work, home repair or anything else done slap-dash. Together, but not right so someone else down the line has to get it done again. Do better.
Absolutely true. Same as for RF applications. Whenever an RF output final goes bad, one always goes a stage back and replaces the driver too.
You can? All it appears that he did was to change input resistors along with adding the missing C7 bypass capacitors. The Vishay RN resistors are unnecessary as classic ADCOM amps have Roederstein resistors from the factory.
Hi bigskyaudio,
The input transistors may have been closely matched. You wouldn't see that.
Input resistors shouldn't make any difference. Not sure on the bypass caps. Under warranty we didn't change anything, out of warranty we wouldn't modify products. During service I did match transistors and that can lower distortion.
The input transistors may have been closely matched. You wouldn't see that.
Input resistors shouldn't make any difference. Not sure on the bypass caps. Under warranty we didn't change anything, out of warranty we wouldn't modify products. During service I did match transistors and that can lower distortion.
Good grief! Really?
Good thing I don't need support from them. Did they move yet again?
I remember when Marantz was sold and moved to another state. Goodbye Marantz.
Good thing I don't need support from them. Did they move yet again?
I remember when Marantz was sold and moved to another state. Goodbye Marantz.
Ummm, the commoditization of products, in part through the anddition of more layers of intermediaries between creators/designers/manufacturers and consumers. Value is decreased and rent is sucked out of the consumer and diverted to the intermediaries.
Hi Halauhula,
Absolutely.
Contract manufacturing. The very best example and how most equipment comes to be these days.
Absolutely.
Contract manufacturing. The very best example and how most equipment comes to be these days.
And raise your hand if you are getting your “DIY” amplifier projects assembled at JLC. Don’t be shy now, everybody tell the truth.
I buy PCBs from various Chinese firms. Quality is good. I assemble the boards myself.
Board houses in North America (I've used them) are out to lunch on pricing. I also make some of my own prototype PCBs.
Board houses in North America (I've used them) are out to lunch on pricing. I also make some of my own prototype PCBs.
Question: due to the left and sides sharing the same Power supply, should there be any consideration with having new preamp board transistors one one side and the original parts on the other channel?
I buy PCBs from Chinese firms too - $1000 for a couple power amp boards is just outrageous. But now it seems everybody lets the board houses do the assembly too. Outsourcing DIY. Whatever happened to “doing it yourself”? On some types of build, the old Sharpie marker trick is still my preferred method. Anything with wide busses and a lot of free-form shapes (like mounting banks of TO-3’s to an already drilled heat sink). Those are always one of a kind anyway. High density boards and lots of ICs you just have to send out to get it made. But stuff it YOURSELF.
Hi wg_ski,
I absolutely do not trust the parts they will use. Also many times, parts need to be matched for top performance. I'm building it, so why not get the best out of it you can? You also get the opportunity to see what variations have an effect, and by how much.
The last boards I had made here were over $800 for 5 pcs, double sided and not complicated at all. Had they been able to wait three more days I could have had them for less than $100 - shipped. That was in 2012, I hate to see what prices are like now.
Bluing ink. It was also available in a pen with fibre nib, or you can use a small paint brush. Available at metal fabrication shops. This stuff doesn't come off in acid easily so you can leave the board in longer to get a crisp etch. Great for repairing iron-on patterns (transfer patterns).
I absolutely do not trust the parts they will use. Also many times, parts need to be matched for top performance. I'm building it, so why not get the best out of it you can? You also get the opportunity to see what variations have an effect, and by how much.
The last boards I had made here were over $800 for 5 pcs, double sided and not complicated at all. Had they been able to wait three more days I could have had them for less than $100 - shipped. That was in 2012, I hate to see what prices are like now.
Bluing ink. It was also available in a pen with fibre nib, or you can use a small paint brush. Available at metal fabrication shops. This stuff doesn't come off in acid easily so you can leave the board in longer to get a crisp etch. Great for repairing iron-on patterns (transfer patterns).
DIY.
We made our own circuits on perf boards, then rough PCBs with parts we scavenged using whatever test instruments we could beg, borrow or whatever. We didn't copy, we designed our own stuff mostly. Cases too. I learned young that bare PCBs don't last very long! Not if you use them.
Radio Electronics and Popular Electronics were mainstays over here. Remember the surplus pages & "PolyPaks"?
We made our own circuits on perf boards, then rough PCBs with parts we scavenged using whatever test instruments we could beg, borrow or whatever. We didn't copy, we designed our own stuff mostly. Cases too. I learned young that bare PCBs don't last very long! Not if you use them.
Radio Electronics and Popular Electronics were mainstays over here. Remember the surplus pages & "PolyPaks"?