First you desolder and remove the bridge diode D313 from the PCB and use multimeter in doide test mode to test the bridge diode for short or open. If the bridge diode fail in test then get a new replacement.
After remove the bridge diode, to repair the PCB, clean the black burned carbon residue on the pcb, check if there is loosing trace(have to cut them off to prevent short circuit), if everything is ok then install the good bridge diode and connect two short wires(red color) to repair the PCB trace(green color is the original PCB trace).
After remove the bridge diode, to repair the PCB, clean the black burned carbon residue on the pcb, check if there is loosing trace(have to cut them off to prevent short circuit), if everything is ok then install the good bridge diode and connect two short wires(red color) to repair the PCB trace(green color is the original PCB trace).
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Thank you patrick
I just test the bridge rectifier with diode test I think is dead I need to change another one... I will receive the negative voltage regulators tomorrow but it won't be useful until I change the bridge rectifier
I just test the bridge rectifier with diode test I think is dead I need to change another one... I will receive the negative voltage regulators tomorrow but it won't be useful until I change the bridge rectifier
The bridge rectifier used by my amp is KBP103G, I must use the same bridge rectifier ? Or I can use for example a rectifier from PC power supply unit.
Thank you again
Thank you again
The input is low voltage, so that you can use similar bridge form PC or others.
Just make sure the bridge pins is correctly soldered.
You use a kind of knife to remove the green paint on the PCB traces(careful and don't hurt the copper trace much) nearby the regulator PCB pads after that solder short hard wires from them to the regulator pins to hold it, last check there is not short circuit among pins.
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Finaly it work now!
The amp stay powred but the bridge rectifier that I changed overheated, it's normal ?
The amp stay powred but the bridge rectifier that I changed overheated, it's normal ?
Well we can say that the problem is solved,
I still have some doubts because the damage that I caused on the board but the amp works now, the bridge rectifier overheat a little bit but no smoke, my amp stayed on for 20 minutes without any problem.
Summary :
The reset problem came from the +5v voltage regulator... My lack electronics skills made things difficult for me...
Now I will test the amp for a few hours to see if everything is in order.
Thank you very much for your help, I appreciated it very much!
I still have some doubts because the damage that I caused on the board but the amp works now, the bridge rectifier overheat a little bit but no smoke, my amp stayed on for 20 minutes without any problem.
Summary :
The reset problem came from the +5v voltage regulator... My lack electronics skills made things difficult for me...
Now I will test the amp for a few hours to see if everything is in order.
Thank you very much for your help, I appreciated it very much!
I'm very glad to hear that your amp is working good.
KBL405 is a higher current (4A) rectifier than original KBP305 (3A), so that it is more safe to use KBL405, the heat is normal for the amp operation, relax and enjoy your amp.
Best regards
KBL405 is a higher current (4A) rectifier than original KBP305 (3A), so that it is more safe to use KBL405, the heat is normal for the amp operation, relax and enjoy your amp.
Best regards
This comforts me 🙂
Thank you again my friend! Your help was very precious to me!
Best regards!
Helo,guys ! On Yamaha-rx-v357, what does it mean PS PRT:16% - wich is normal range for it, wich is IC 242 pin for it , wich is the reference for it ???