Normally they show a top view for components with the traces drawn under them. It would appear backwards if you were looking at the copper side of the board.
That board has about $40 worth of parts on it. Replacement PC boards would cost around the same for 10 plus shipping, so the cost isn't huge. It's still much less work if that board can be salvaged though. Is there any damage to the traces themself?
Yeah, most of Yam's amps used single sided boards, so they're easier to replicate for repairs. I have the Owner's Manual, Service Manual and I had the Schematic from a friend up north from another site. If you need them I can email. The OM documentation is detailed and among the most thorough I've seen.
Thanks Guys;
Hi jwilhelm;
I have not yet started to clean the PCB, but I see one loose eyelet where a wire for (I believe, the temp sensing transistor) lands. My thoughts were that parts might be about $100 or more, with outputs, drivers, emitter resistors, electrolytics, and a number of other smaller components. I have ordered from Newark. You're in Canada, also outside of Toronto, where do you go for parts?
Hi kouiky;
I would be extremely grateful if you could send me anything you have on the P2200 /P2201. I have a service manual pdf, found on the web, but it is a low res scan and difficult to make out some numbers.
I'm at hennioriginals@gmail.com
I will start repairs on this PCB, because I hate to see what I think is such a well built amp, scrapped.... but it would sure be easier to find yet another 'donor' amp. Maybe I should start a home for wayward Yamaha P220x's!
Thanks again, Peter, north of Toronto
Hi jwilhelm;
I have not yet started to clean the PCB, but I see one loose eyelet where a wire for (I believe, the temp sensing transistor) lands. My thoughts were that parts might be about $100 or more, with outputs, drivers, emitter resistors, electrolytics, and a number of other smaller components. I have ordered from Newark. You're in Canada, also outside of Toronto, where do you go for parts?
Hi kouiky;
I would be extremely grateful if you could send me anything you have on the P2200 /P2201. I have a service manual pdf, found on the web, but it is a low res scan and difficult to make out some numbers.
I'm at hennioriginals@gmail.com
I will start repairs on this PCB, because I hate to see what I think is such a well built amp, scrapped.... but it would sure be easier to find yet another 'donor' amp. Maybe I should start a home for wayward Yamaha P220x's!
Thanks again, Peter, north of Toronto
You have the SM here :
Yamaha P-2201 Manual - Professional Series Power Amplifier - HiFi Engine
The PCB is still good enough if cleaned, just make sure that the resistances withstand enough power, this amp is like a 100W amp that was granted a higher supply voltage, so there s a few components that are hot to say the least.
Otherwise it has a nice topology with a cascoded and current mirrored input differential driving a cascoded VAS, the only weak point is its double EF that increase distorsion well above what would be permitted with the same design but with a triple EF, perfs are still very good apparently, perhaps better than your Crest amp despite the oldness of this Yamaha.
Yamaha P-2201 Manual - Professional Series Power Amplifier - HiFi Engine
The PCB is still good enough if cleaned, just make sure that the resistances withstand enough power, this amp is like a 100W amp that was granted a higher supply voltage, so there s a few components that are hot to say the least.
Otherwise it has a nice topology with a cascoded and current mirrored input differential driving a cascoded VAS, the only weak point is its double EF that increase distorsion well above what would be permitted with the same design but with a triple EF, perfs are still very good apparently, perhaps better than your Crest amp despite the oldness of this Yamaha.
I use Mouser, Digikey and Newark here. I've had some painful dealings with Digikey USA, but they are great here in Canada.
Wahab beat me to the HiFi Engine link. This does look like a boosted 100W design. 3 output pairs seems light for this kind of rail voltage.
Wahab beat me to the HiFi Engine link. This does look like a boosted 100W design. 3 output pairs seems light for this kind of rail voltage.
Hi Peter
I'm a long time fan of the P2200 having owned 8 of them (a long while ago) for my home theater setup. For someone with the right skills the P2200 and the P2201 are very easy amps to fix. All 8 of the amps I had were purchased as defective units off of eBay which I restored. I also made some slight changes to the design to improve the stability. This I found necessary as the use of newer (faster) power transistors as mentioned by the other posters can cause this amp to oscillate.
In looking at your pics there seems to be something strange about the PCB boards. These Yamaha amps (Japanese not Chinese amps) had different right and left mirror PCB boards, and what you are showing are two channel “B” boards used for both the right and left channels. The board that is installed as your channel “A” is actually a channel “B” that was taken from another amplifier. This can be seen from the fact that the shielded input connection is towards the rear of the amp and is located close to where the speaker connection should be. This was considered bad as this could couple the output signal back into the input causing the amp to oscillate destructively, and since there is NO speaker protection on these amps. It would also result in the destruction of the connected speaker. You might consider rotating the whole heatsink assembly 180 deg so that the input would be facing towards the front of the amp although this would mean that the bias adjustment pot would now be facing the bottom of the amp.
I had at one time a brand new (unused) spare channel “A” PCB (see pic) but I sold it along with all 8 of my P2200 amps to a friend. I could contact him to find out if he would be interested in selling it if you would be interested in purchasing it.
Hope you get it working because it really is a great sounding amp.
Philip
I'm a long time fan of the P2200 having owned 8 of them (a long while ago) for my home theater setup. For someone with the right skills the P2200 and the P2201 are very easy amps to fix. All 8 of the amps I had were purchased as defective units off of eBay which I restored. I also made some slight changes to the design to improve the stability. This I found necessary as the use of newer (faster) power transistors as mentioned by the other posters can cause this amp to oscillate.
In looking at your pics there seems to be something strange about the PCB boards. These Yamaha amps (Japanese not Chinese amps) had different right and left mirror PCB boards, and what you are showing are two channel “B” boards used for both the right and left channels. The board that is installed as your channel “A” is actually a channel “B” that was taken from another amplifier. This can be seen from the fact that the shielded input connection is towards the rear of the amp and is located close to where the speaker connection should be. This was considered bad as this could couple the output signal back into the input causing the amp to oscillate destructively, and since there is NO speaker protection on these amps. It would also result in the destruction of the connected speaker. You might consider rotating the whole heatsink assembly 180 deg so that the input would be facing towards the front of the amp although this would mean that the bias adjustment pot would now be facing the bottom of the amp.
I had at one time a brand new (unused) spare channel “A” PCB (see pic) but I sold it along with all 8 of my P2200 amps to a friend. I could contact him to find out if he would be interested in selling it if you would be interested in purchasing it.
Hope you get it working because it really is a great sounding amp.
Philip
Attachments
![[000846].jpg](/community/data/attachments/483/483960-86ff4abf116d5b6fd08b5e90fff4dc94.jpg?hash=hv9KvxFtW2)
Wow THAT is a lot of power ��
yes, is a Nice amp. Anyone ever Trier to bias Them High ? Mine newer Got even slightly hot driving Martin logans
yes, is a Nice amp. Anyone ever Trier to bias Them High ? Mine newer Got even slightly hot driving Martin logans
Hi Philip
Your Yamaha expertise has been very helpful already! I was puzzled that the first service manual that I found, seemed to be a mirror image of the boards in this amp.
The horror of what my amp has been through, is becoming clearer.
Thanks so much, wahab;
I registered on the hifi engine site, and downloaded and excellent copy of the service manual. I was not aware until now, that there are A and B boards.
Philip, I would be interested in that spare PCB, if you friend wants to part with it. I have a P2200 driving 16 planar tweeters in my system. The amp in question is a P2201 (the ugly sibling). Could you explain the mod you performed to reduce oscillation, I also require new outputs for that channel. I had this problem with my Phase Linear, I had insufficient capacitor size on the output R-C network.
Your Yamaha expertise has been very helpful already! I was puzzled that the first service manual that I found, seemed to be a mirror image of the boards in this amp.
The horror of what my amp has been through, is becoming clearer.
Thanks so much, wahab;
I registered on the hifi engine site, and downloaded and excellent copy of the service manual. I was not aware until now, that there are A and B boards.
Philip, I would be interested in that spare PCB, if you friend wants to part with it. I have a P2200 driving 16 planar tweeters in my system. The amp in question is a P2201 (the ugly sibling). Could you explain the mod you performed to reduce oscillation, I also require new outputs for that channel. I had this problem with my Phase Linear, I had insufficient capacitor size on the output R-C network.
I notice that the board is quite badly charred. Be very careful that it hasn't become conductive. I usually cut out any charring and rebuild the hole with resin glue and tissue.
Any progress on your amp? I am a big fan of the P2201, I have 2 in service and a third arriving soon, I hope.
I've had a lot of SS amplifiers over the years and these Yamaha's are among the best (at least best bang for the buck), I would put them up against Brystons all day long knowing I've paid a fraction of the Bryston price tag.
I've had a lot of SS amplifiers over the years and these Yamaha's are among the best (at least best bang for the buck), I would put them up against Brystons all day long knowing I've paid a fraction of the Bryston price tag.
Hi Frazzled;
On closer examination of my amp. I think that there have been too many parts removed and too much damage to the pcb for repair. I am not one to give up easily, but feel that the repair cost and effort is not justified, given the resale value. I have a P 2200 in a 'key position' in my system, driving 16 Dayton Planar tweeters. I love Phase Linear Amps but feel they are too temperamental to drive such an expensive load!
The P 2201 was still a great purchase, as I believe the output modules are identical to the P 2200. I learned here that there are left and right modules. As is the case with my P2201, the channels can be swapped, but it is not pretty.
PS; I'm in the market for dead Yamaha amps of this series or large dead Crest amps.
Here is my 'nice rack';
On closer examination of my amp. I think that there have been too many parts removed and too much damage to the pcb for repair. I am not one to give up easily, but feel that the repair cost and effort is not justified, given the resale value. I have a P 2200 in a 'key position' in my system, driving 16 Dayton Planar tweeters. I love Phase Linear Amps but feel they are too temperamental to drive such an expensive load!
The P 2201 was still a great purchase, as I believe the output modules are identical to the P 2200. I learned here that there are left and right modules. As is the case with my P2201, the channels can be swapped, but it is not pretty.
PS; I'm in the market for dead Yamaha amps of this series or large dead Crest amps.
Here is my 'nice rack';
Attachments
Hi Frazzled;
Is the rack for your Yamaha amps, by any chance a former theatre sound rack? I have a couple. I wish I kept the Tube amps that were in them!
Is the rack for your Yamaha amps, by any chance a former theatre sound rack? I have a couple. I wish I kept the Tube amps that were in them!
Hi Peter,
Those are really nice amplifiers, and I think it is well worth repair. When you quote resale, you are stacking the deck against fixing it. Any amplifier you buy that is this old needs to be gone through with a fine toothed comb - so the replacement values you are seeing are not realistic given that at the end, you will have an overhauled amplifier.
I used to do Yamaha MI warranty and have worked on several of these. The P2200's that came in often were in a rack that tipped over - causing that little ( 🙂 ) transformer to attempt an escape through those wonderful meters. The level controls were a really nice, switched resistor type. They are really expensive to replace with like.
In my estimation, these Yamaha MI products are clean enough for home use. One day I would love to upgrade one of these to see just how good they can be.
It would be a real shame to scrap this (admittedly) rough amplifier. I feel it is a worthwhile project and you do end up with an extremely nice amplifier.
-Chris
Those are really nice amplifiers, and I think it is well worth repair. When you quote resale, you are stacking the deck against fixing it. Any amplifier you buy that is this old needs to be gone through with a fine toothed comb - so the replacement values you are seeing are not realistic given that at the end, you will have an overhauled amplifier.
I used to do Yamaha MI warranty and have worked on several of these. The P2200's that came in often were in a rack that tipped over - causing that little ( 🙂 ) transformer to attempt an escape through those wonderful meters. The level controls were a really nice, switched resistor type. They are really expensive to replace with like.
In my estimation, these Yamaha MI products are clean enough for home use. One day I would love to upgrade one of these to see just how good they can be.
It would be a real shame to scrap this (admittedly) rough amplifier. I feel it is a worthwhile project and you do end up with an extremely nice amplifier.
-Chris
Hi Frazzled,
I'm going to bet you made off like a bandit with these. That rack looks pretty good too. Not much on ventilation though.
-Chris
I'm going to bet you made off like a bandit with these. That rack looks pretty good too. Not much on ventilation though.
-Chris
Hi Chris;
I agree and am very impressed with this series of amps. I would never literally scrap this amp, but for the moment, it is 'on the shelf' As mentioned, it's brother (P 2200 ) with meters, is playing a key position in my system, driving 16 planar tweeters.
BTW; are you aware of amplifiers of this series, but larger? I'm sure I saw a theatre sound system in the early 90's with rack's of Yamaha P series amps, some were another 2 rack spaces taller!
Also, regarding upgrades, I would be very interested in how you might modify this amp. It was mentioned here that replacement outputs are 'faster' and IIRC, may oscillate.
PS; I have my sights on a P 2100, so I'm building a 'retirement home for Yamahas' rather than a scrap heap. Although my electronics knowledge is limited, I am a firm believer in class AB for HIFI systems. Class A seems pointless, given so many other weak links in ANY audio system. I have resorted to class G (Crest CA 18) for my (subwoofers) LF from 140 Hz and down.
I agree and am very impressed with this series of amps. I would never literally scrap this amp, but for the moment, it is 'on the shelf' As mentioned, it's brother (P 2200 ) with meters, is playing a key position in my system, driving 16 planar tweeters.
BTW; are you aware of amplifiers of this series, but larger? I'm sure I saw a theatre sound system in the early 90's with rack's of Yamaha P series amps, some were another 2 rack spaces taller!
Also, regarding upgrades, I would be very interested in how you might modify this amp. It was mentioned here that replacement outputs are 'faster' and IIRC, may oscillate.
PS; I have my sights on a P 2100, so I'm building a 'retirement home for Yamahas' rather than a scrap heap. Although my electronics knowledge is limited, I am a firm believer in class AB for HIFI systems. Class A seems pointless, given so many other weak links in ANY audio system. I have resorted to class G (Crest CA 18) for my (subwoofers) LF from 140 Hz and down.
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