Nice work! Brings back memories of having owned a pair - another of the items I was an idiot for selling.
Just rechecking old pictures: somewhat worried by the obviously cold soldering on pots, (and maybe somewhere else) :
Maybe you can add a dab of solder, with a larger tip/power soldering iron?
Those thicker than original wires can certainly suck heat away from soldered spot.

Maybe you can add a dab of solder, with a larger tip/power soldering iron?
Those thicker than original wires can certainly suck heat away from soldered spot.
hi, those filters are the original ones and were replaced by newer ones and in perfect condition
I´m talking soldering, not pot quality.
I also see flux/rosin sputter around, that is NOT Yamaha workmanship by any means.
I also see flux/rosin sputter around, that is NOT Yamaha workmanship by any means.
ThanksBecause you already have them locally 🙂
All the preprocessing has already been done.
But us loading them for the first time from an external server (ibb something) have to go through all the process at least once.
None of the screens you mentioned can display a 3024 by 4032 pixel image, that´s for sure, all have been downsized as needed.
In more practical terms, your 3024 by 4032 images are meant for high quality photographic printing on paper, size 15" by 22"
http://www.urban75.org/photos/print.html
For online display, suggested sizes are:
All this suggested in good faith and with the best intentions.
PS: although dated, this post by Pano still applies:
"
Size Matters! Posting images to the forum"
https://www.diyaudio.com/archive/blogs/comments/comment1113.html
the photo filters have been kept in a box, the new ones don't have those welds, it doesn't matter what was there before because it doesn't have it anymore 🙂I´m talking soldering, not pot quality.
I also see flux/rosin sputter around, that is NOT Yamaha workmanship by any means.
I certainly have, mine have them too. The circles on either side of the mounting screw were present on earlier woofer frames up until serial numbers of about 34,000 during mid 1977. After that, the molds were changed and a few distinguishing features were added on the back side....I'm wondering if anyone else has ever seen these depressions on the bass drivers frame, next to the mounting screws, just wondering if they signify anything?
Thanks.
Curious what exactly was used on the OP’s woofers to treat the surrounds.
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No problem.Thanks Kouiky. I have not seen any others with this and wondered what they were and why. Having used mine now for a few hundred hours the bass has become much fuller. When time pernits I will upgrade connectors and maybe check out crossover options.
I was in my 20's when I noticed the sound signature of the NS-1000Ms change, after a period of non-use. I had measured a drop in Fs for the woofers that occured as they were used, but the crossover capacitors were plausibly also responsible for the perceptible difference. I suspect the charging of the dielectric used in such ancient technology capacitors is the source.
I use the word anchient a bit unfairly. I would leave the original crossover as-is, unchanged. If you wish to experiment, it would be worthwhile to have plates made to fit the crossover hole (on the rear of the cabinet) and build a totally new outboard crossover. The plates could be done with wood, glossy black $20 acrylic from Amazon, or 3D printing (if you want an STL file for a 3D print shop near you to make them, just message me and I'll rev up the CAD software one weekend and design the part for you). This way, it can be instantly reverted to the original.
Thanks for the information. Odd I know, but many years ago not only did I buy a NOS pair of NS1000 tweeters, but also a single crossover. I'm not really sure why, as I did not own the speakers at the time! But as luck would have it, I bought a pair years later and have plans to modify the spare XO and swap it back and forth after incremental mods and testing. I do have an old version of a good CAD suite, I've just been resisting the temptation to buy an A1 plotter, so as to print out marking templates in full size, some go for silly money now. (Cheap). I'm flitting a bit between projects at the moment, and as you may understand, "stepping off the edge" so to speak, with untried mods can be both time consuming and frustrating. I have seen though one modifier's measurements and at first, I would hope to just flatten/fill in some of the bumps in a gradual way.
We shall see.
We shall see.
Very nice work and a gorgeous result.
Can you go into more detail about what you did for the gasket replacement? I have a set that I re-veneered. The drivers of course had to be removed and the original gasket isn't in the best condition. I would like to replace the gasket to tighten the speakers up more.
Can you go into more detail about what you did for the gasket replacement? I have a set that I re-veneered. The drivers of course had to be removed and the original gasket isn't in the best condition. I would like to replace the gasket to tighten the speakers up more.
Hello, I don't know what the material is called in English, in Spain it is called "goma eva " Pryse Eva - Rubber, 20 x 30 cm, color
black https://amzn.eu/d/4t7uXQ0
t is sold in bookstores/stationery stores or craft stores.
black https://amzn.eu/d/4t7uXQ0
t is sold in bookstores/stationery stores or craft stores.
Thanks! Looks like it's available on Amazon: https://www.google.com/search?q=eva...HJIBBTEyLjIymAEAoAEBwAEB&sclient=gws-wiz-serp
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