Xtant X604 repair help

That's the problem with DC offset on these amps. Don't get too worried about it. It will not remain constant.

Using superglue or fast curing epoxy is a problem if you ever have to apply heat to either. If you have to fill a board, use the 24 hour curing JB Weld. For small areas, something like a drop of E6000 or GOOP works well.

For those two short traces, I'd likely have scraped away the solder mask back to solid board and overlaid a leg of a resistor over the length of the trace. Another option would have been to cut away the 'flying' part of the trace and jump them with a small gauge wire. Multi-strand (not the single-strand) ribbon cable works well. The wire could have been fixed in place with the adhesives mentioned above.

These suggestions are for future reference. There is no need to undo what you did.

When you scraped/dug the fiberglass out, did you take it back to where there was NO darkened fiberglass?
I did scrape it until I saw grey colored fiberglass with pieces falling out. I do not plan to heat up the area where I filled in traces though your advice is great. Next time I do repair like this I will use JB Weld or other alternatives. I just used what I had at home. I usually use stranded wires to fix burned traces, though no issues with traces on this amp. They remained intact.
I am still puzzled how contamination can conduct so well. I do need to beef up +45V trace in one spot though. Copper tape could work quite well in that area but I never tried it in the past.
 
The electrolyte in the capacitor is conductive. It can start the conduction and after the board heats up and become carbonized, the process continues as long as there is voltage present.

Copper foil tape and copper eyelets to replace vias may have their uses in very expensive or specialized circuits but for car audio, wire works well enough. In the rare situation where skin effect becomes an issue, litz wire would be a better option than normal wire but skin effect rarely comes into play in board repairs.