Tube watts are no different than SS watts, just that typically a tube amp clips much more gracefully than a SS amp so it seems to have more power.
dave
@kodabmx
Can you provide more info on this amp - it's tube types - and perhaps a weblink? Appreciated.
@pblix
This amp you mention is another new discovery for me. It seems there are two similar amps: Tubelab SE and Tubelab SSE. I will do some reading on these. Appreciated.
You know what I mean
Tubelab SE | Tubelab
Tubelab SSE | Tubelab
Essentially, the SSE uses a pentode as a power stage. Many to chose from, such as 6L6, EL34, KT88, 6550, 6V6 etc. It can be built as pentode, triode or UL. The SE, as far as I know, uses a triode as power stage, such as 45, 2A3, 300B. The SE, I believe, is an older design. I have the SSE with EL34s in UL and I like it.
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These look nice. I'm very drawn to the designer's focus on simplicity.
Sadly they look a bit too DIY for me, as I don't even have access to a drill press.
So, I'm going to need to look at a full amp kit.
TRANSCENDENT SOUND
ELEKIT; and
BOB LATINO TUBES4HIFI appear to offer the most complete and highly praised tube amp kits that I have seen.
It's just a case of deciding on a final speaker first - and finding the right amp thereafter.
(Definitely a 1st World problem... )
I want to thank everyone for their feedback on the TRANSCENDENT SOUND BRUISER KT120 tube amp specs. I still haven't discounted it, but realise that this amp needs a speaker with a more stable - less peaky - impedance across the frequency spectrum, than the ATC speaker models I have been considering.
Sadly they look a bit too DIY for me, as I don't even have access to a drill press.
So, I'm going to need to look at a full amp kit.
TRANSCENDENT SOUND
ELEKIT; and
BOB LATINO TUBES4HIFI appear to offer the most complete and highly praised tube amp kits that I have seen.
It's just a case of deciding on a final speaker first - and finding the right amp thereafter.
(Definitely a 1st World problem... )
I want to thank everyone for their feedback on the TRANSCENDENT SOUND BRUISER KT120 tube amp specs. I still haven't discounted it, but realise that this amp needs a speaker with a more stable - less peaky - impedance across the frequency spectrum, than the ATC speaker models I have been considering.
Here's a link to the last page of the thread I created for them.
Input VA/PI = 6F12P
Driver = 12SN7
Output = 4x6P45S triode connected.
6P45S PPP Monoblocks.
Also, I have a drill press. I never use it. I drill everything freehand with a cordless Hitachi drill.
I looked at those kits, and I think both Transcendent and Tubes4HiFi offer big amps for large rooms and/or extremely inefficient speakers. Seems like overkill for what I've learned of your needs. Sort of like buying a full-size pickup truck to drive to church and back.
The Elekit looks too far in the other direction and I really don't like the PSU on the cord, but as always, YMMV.
I can't remember if it was in this thread, but I would think there are numerous members here at DIYaudio that would be willing to build an SE or SSE for you. I'm not sure if there are forum rules against soliciting such services or not.
Hi rogon,
while manufacturers claim that toroids in general have far less magnetic stray fields that EI or M lam type xfrms - which is true - toroids also can (but need not) exhibit very strong magnetic fields - almost like a headlight beam - from the winding gap irregularity where the wires come out, indeed. I made (and measured) that experience more than once, magnetically coupling to magnetic structures of gain stage tubes even about up to 7..8 centimetres away from the toroid core surface.
OTOH, you cannot derive from a simple picture if the certain toroid being used exhibits such a behaviour. Or even if so, if it matters anyway. Why not assume the kit designer / vendor knows what he is doing? If present, such magnetic coupling of mains hum certainly would show up in the THD+N graphs, if not plainly audible ...
Regards, Tom
while manufacturers claim that toroids in general have far less magnetic stray fields that EI or M lam type xfrms - which is true - toroids also can (but need not) exhibit very strong magnetic fields - almost like a headlight beam - from the winding gap irregularity where the wires come out, indeed. I made (and measured) that experience more than once, magnetically coupling to magnetic structures of gain stage tubes even about up to 7..8 centimetres away from the toroid core surface.
OTOH, you cannot derive from a simple picture if the certain toroid being used exhibits such a behaviour. Or even if so, if it matters anyway. Why not assume the kit designer / vendor knows what he is doing? If present, such magnetic coupling of mains hum certainly would show up in the THD+N graphs, if not plainly audible ...
Regards, Tom
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SONDEKNZ,
I am surprised that not having a drill press is an issue for you.
I use aluminum chassis. I have a manual hand drill and bits; a manual drill that has an offset handle (=__---) to be able to use big reamer bits; and a nibbler.
I have also used chassis punches too (I don't like those).
Hand tools take longer, but there is the 'closeness' of working with your hands, not a machine.
You should not need any of those if you only build kits (but only if you will never want to do modifications that require mounding a different part).
If you ever do get the bug to build 'from scratch' you need to purchase or borrow tools.
Plan on that, and start small (just a couple of tools).
Once you build a kit, you may just get that bug.
I do not normally use PCBs. But I do like the design of those Tubelab SE and SSE boards in post # 84.
I sometimes am tempted to build an amp with one of those PCBs
The SE PCB is no longer available, will be re-designed.
The SSE has a couple of switches, Triode/Ultra Linear, and Cathode Feedback/No Feedback. Be sure to only switch those before you turn on the amp (switching with the amp running is not a good idea).
And as you already determined, you will have to do a lot more work than building a kit.
Perhaps there is someone who can help you with constructing an amp like one of those, and helping checking it out before and after you power it up.
And yes, it is a good idea to determine what speakers you will use with an amp that has low to moderate power.
I am surprised that not having a drill press is an issue for you.
I use aluminum chassis. I have a manual hand drill and bits; a manual drill that has an offset handle (=__---) to be able to use big reamer bits; and a nibbler.
I have also used chassis punches too (I don't like those).
Hand tools take longer, but there is the 'closeness' of working with your hands, not a machine.
You should not need any of those if you only build kits (but only if you will never want to do modifications that require mounding a different part).
If you ever do get the bug to build 'from scratch' you need to purchase or borrow tools.
Plan on that, and start small (just a couple of tools).
Once you build a kit, you may just get that bug.
I do not normally use PCBs. But I do like the design of those Tubelab SE and SSE boards in post # 84.
I sometimes am tempted to build an amp with one of those PCBs
The SE PCB is no longer available, will be re-designed.
The SSE has a couple of switches, Triode/Ultra Linear, and Cathode Feedback/No Feedback. Be sure to only switch those before you turn on the amp (switching with the amp running is not a good idea).
And as you already determined, you will have to do a lot more work than building a kit.
Perhaps there is someone who can help you with constructing an amp like one of those, and helping checking it out before and after you power it up.
And yes, it is a good idea to determine what speakers you will use with an amp that has low to moderate power.
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I too have loads of tools, but I'm a bit of a fussy bugger when it comes to fit and finish.
One of my previous amp kit projects was (aesthetically) finished poorly because of the lack of a drill-press. It meant that the face plate never really sat well on the amp. Always bugged me.
If I were ever to attempt a real scratch-build amp, I would definitely invest in a cheap and flash Chinese-made amp enclosure sourced through ALI EXPRESS. But I can't imagine finding one with all the holes exactly where I need them, hence the need for a drill press to achieve a perfectly plumb finish.
One day I will do it - and I will utilise a local engineering shop to do so.
😀
Or have these guys make panels for you 🙂
Front Panel Express: Front Panel Design Software and CAD Conversion Service: Home
Front Panel Express: Front Panel Design Software and CAD Conversion Service: Home
Closure...
Just to round-off this thread, no I didn't buy this amp.
But not for the amp measurement reasons, this thread debates.
I feel certain that Bruce Rozenblit's THE BRUISER amp is probably an absolute blinder - within its 35W (all triode) power limitations.
The show-stopper is the economics.
The fact is that this import of US products with high freight costs, import duties on the hardware, local (15%) Good & Services tax on the sum total - in addition to the very disparate USD/NZD FX rate - meant that in the end, it was just not economic.
Such is island living, through COVID-19 - here in New Zealand.
Thank you to all who have contributed to this thread. I have learned a lot, regardless.
Back to modding speakers and amps that are already in my possession... 😀
Just to round-off this thread, no I didn't buy this amp.
But not for the amp measurement reasons, this thread debates.
I feel certain that Bruce Rozenblit's THE BRUISER amp is probably an absolute blinder - within its 35W (all triode) power limitations.
The show-stopper is the economics.
The fact is that this import of US products with high freight costs, import duties on the hardware, local (15%) Good & Services tax on the sum total - in addition to the very disparate USD/NZD FX rate - meant that in the end, it was just not economic.
Such is island living, through COVID-19 - here in New Zealand.
Thank you to all who have contributed to this thread. I have learned a lot, regardless.
Back to modding speakers and amps that are already in my possession... 😀