I was surfing the net looking for a cheap sub for my room, yet that can still kick over 100 dB, and i came across this sub http://7925.adahost.com/computer/index.html?loadfile=catalog22_0.html would this sub perform well? about how many dB's will it push? And what would you recommend for a ported enclosure that will venture into the 20 hz range (my software recommends about 450 liters, and that seems a bit big)? Thanks for all your help.
Greg Lightfoot
Greg Lightfoot
wrong address....
sorry that was the wrong address. the correct one would be http://7925.adahost.com/computer/item12548.html
sorry
sorry that was the wrong address. the correct one would be http://7925.adahost.com/computer/item12548.html
sorry
The one you've found is suitable for cars only 'cause of it's high Fs, in freeair for that matter because of its high Qts figure.
For only US$125, purchase a 12" Shiva -- http://www.adireaudio.com/car_audio/subwoofers/shiva.htm
For only US$25 more, you can get a 15" Tempest -- http://www.adireaudio.com/car_audio/subwoofers/tempest.htm
You'll damage your ears with either driver if you don't go easy on the volume control
Good luck!
Isaac
For only US$125, purchase a 12" Shiva -- http://www.adireaudio.com/car_audio/subwoofers/shiva.htm
For only US$25 more, you can get a 15" Tempest -- http://www.adireaudio.com/car_audio/subwoofers/tempest.htm
You'll damage your ears with either driver if you don't go easy on the volume control
Good luck!
Isaac
And my favorite cheap 12"
The Stryke/Lambda SAE 1024 for $109
http://www.stryke.com/SAE1204.html
dave
The Stryke/Lambda SAE 1024 for $109
http://www.stryke.com/SAE1204.html
dave
My decision
I have decided to purchase either a shiva or a Stryke Audio SAE1204. Right now my favorite has to be the SAE1204 because it is cheaper and does not need as much power (i think?). Which would bebetter considering I am on a VERY limited budget. Where could I get a cheap plate amp to power these? Sound quality is not as important as cost, as long as it is not horrible. Thanks For your help.
I have decided to purchase either a shiva or a Stryke Audio SAE1204. Right now my favorite has to be the SAE1204 because it is cheaper and does not need as much power (i think?). Which would bebetter considering I am on a VERY limited budget. Where could I get a cheap plate amp to power these? Sound quality is not as important as cost, as long as it is not horrible. Thanks For your help.
Alright, by $100 i meant $135. It is still a steal, this looks to be a sweet amp, and I will soon be doing a project with this amp (here is the link: Badass amp ) and a 12" peerless sub. I suggest you take a look at this sub as well. peerless sub
-andy
-andy
If cost is as big a factor as you say, try a Blueprint 1001. Sure it is only a 10", but with 16 mm excursion it moves as much air as 12" with a 12 mm excursion-which is itself a very very long excursion.
Cost: $81 plus shipping.
http://www.blueprintdrivers.com/
Here are two possibilities, (ported).
The red shows a 1 cu ft box tuned to 29 Hz
The green shows a 2 cu ft box tuned to 25 Hz.
Oh yeah. I figured out the sensitivity from the Thiele small numbers. It is 86 dB @ 1M/1W. that is 89 dB @ 2.83 Volts, the way some manufacturers measure it.
Cost: $81 plus shipping.
http://www.blueprintdrivers.com/
Here are two possibilities, (ported).
The red shows a 1 cu ft box tuned to 29 Hz
The green shows a 2 cu ft box tuned to 25 Hz.
Oh yeah. I figured out the sensitivity from the Thiele small numbers. It is 86 dB @ 1M/1W. that is 89 dB @ 2.83 Volts, the way some manufacturers measure it.
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Blueprint 1201 for $91.
Following are 3 choices.
Red is 3 cu ft box tuned to 21 Hz.
Green is a 4 cu ft box tuned to 20 Hz.
Purple is a 4th order bandpass box, 3 cu ft total. Front is 1.25 cu ft, tuned to 41 Hz. Rear is 1.75 cu ft, sealed.
You should know the following:
A) I have never built a bandpass box, these graphs are from WinISD.
B) I have never used Blueprint Drivers, but they are highly recommended by others on this forum.
As you can see, the 4 cu ft box is about 4.5 dB down at 20 Hz. Pretty good.
I have not run the numbers to establish the sensitivity of the 1201 yet. I will do so shortly. My guess is that it will be about 1 or 2 dB more sensitive than the 1001, which is 86 dB @ 1 watt, or 89 dB at 2.83 volts.
Good luck!
Following are 3 choices.
Red is 3 cu ft box tuned to 21 Hz.
Green is a 4 cu ft box tuned to 20 Hz.
Purple is a 4th order bandpass box, 3 cu ft total. Front is 1.25 cu ft, tuned to 41 Hz. Rear is 1.75 cu ft, sealed.
You should know the following:
A) I have never built a bandpass box, these graphs are from WinISD.
B) I have never used Blueprint Drivers, but they are highly recommended by others on this forum.
As you can see, the 4 cu ft box is about 4.5 dB down at 20 Hz. Pretty good.
I have not run the numbers to establish the sensitivity of the 1201 yet. I will do so shortly. My guess is that it will be about 1 or 2 dB more sensitive than the 1001, which is 86 dB @ 1 watt, or 89 dB at 2.83 volts.
Good luck!
Attachments
Andy:
Here is the link-right now they have only the 01 series in stock:
www.blueprintdrivers.com
And here are the Thiele Small parameters for the 1001 and 1201.
The sensitivity for the 1201 was calculated by BoxModel, using the Thiele Small parameters, as 86.6 dB @ 1M/1W., or 89.6 dB @ 2.83 volts. The sensitivity for the 1001 was calculated as being .6 dB less than the 1201.
Here is the link-right now they have only the 01 series in stock:
www.blueprintdrivers.com
And here are the Thiele Small parameters for the 1001 and 1201.
The sensitivity for the 1201 was calculated by BoxModel, using the Thiele Small parameters, as 86.6 dB @ 1M/1W., or 89.6 dB @ 2.83 volts. The sensitivity for the 1001 was calculated as being .6 dB less than the 1201.
Attachments
No, it is suitable for pounding or used as a tacticle transducer.
It may produce very well as a earthquake producer but not quality sound. A sealed box is recommended for this woofer because of high Qts and high Qes. From the high Qes the woofer needs a lot of power to get it moving.
Adire Audio's SHIVA or Tempest will out perform it any day.
Blueprint drivers produce high SPLs but they need a massive amplifier from its lower efficiency.
There are woofers from Dayton that look a like the Adire SHIVA and Tempest. Also the price is a little cheaper. Dayton woofers can be found at Parts Express or other audio store.
I am building a sub for my neighbor, and my original plan was the 12" peerless something subwoofer, really good looking with cast frame, big roll surrounds, double magnets, powered by the 250 watt partsexpress sub amp. I chose this woofer because Dana's [neighbor] wife doesn't want a huge box on the floor, and the peerless (fs:18,Qts:.20,Vas:5ft3)
should work well in a ported >2 ft3 enclosure.
Anyone see any problems with this design?
Another sub in the >$150 price range is the Dayton (needs a bigger box). Otherwise, on paper it looks to be an awesome woofer. What is the general concensus on these?
Also, the blueprints are impressive. However, the 1201 (just a guess) needs 3 or 4 ft3. A little large for this project.
-andy
should work well in a ported >2 ft3 enclosure.
Anyone see any problems with this design?
Another sub in the >$150 price range is the Dayton (needs a bigger box). Otherwise, on paper it looks to be an awesome woofer. What is the general concensus on these?
Also, the blueprints are impressive. However, the 1201 (just a guess) needs 3 or 4 ft3. A little large for this project.
Is 250 watts "massive" ?
-andy
Well, just keeping your options open. The following 3 graphs are for 2 cubic foot enclosures.
The red is a Blueprint 1201 in a bandpass enclosure. Front chamber: .85 cu ft tuned to 48 Hz. Rear chamber: 1.15 cubic ft, sealed.
The orange is a Blueprint 1201 in a 2 cubic ft enclosure, tuned to 25 Hz. A 2dB bump is not really outrageous.
The green is a Peerless XLS 12 ", (5 ohm) in a 2 cubic foot vented box tuned to 27 Hz.
Good luck whichever way you go.
The red is a Blueprint 1201 in a bandpass enclosure. Front chamber: .85 cu ft tuned to 48 Hz. Rear chamber: 1.15 cubic ft, sealed.
The orange is a Blueprint 1201 in a 2 cubic ft enclosure, tuned to 25 Hz. A 2dB bump is not really outrageous.
The green is a Peerless XLS 12 ", (5 ohm) in a 2 cubic foot vented box tuned to 27 Hz.
Good luck whichever way you go.
Attachments
The program is WinISD. It is free and available at http://www.linearteam.dk/
For multiple plots, just keep clicking "New" on the top. That way you can compare.
Here in this forum, we are lucky to have our own loudspeaker simulation programmer, f4ier, who has made a new version of Subwoofer Simulator. So many people are downloading that one that I have not been able to do so yet.
http://www.geocities.com/f4ier/subsim.htm
So I stick with WinISD for now. Very simple. Hint: click on choice 2 for thickness of line. It comes out much clearer.
As for the Blueprint 1201 in the 2 cu ft box, some have said a 2 dB hump in the response gives added distortion, but I have not found it egregious. Look at the difference in bass output between the Blueprint and the Peerless. Peerless is a very good brand, by the way. You cannot go wrong with the Peerless. But I figured I would just lay it out in front of you.
Finally, let me just add that is going to be difficult to find a 12" subwoofer that is only 3 dB down at 30 Hz without equalization. Equalization is about the most overrated phenomenon in the audio world-it does nothing to add to the speaker's output when it is driven hard. A 100 watt amplifier with 6 dB equalization at 30 Hz will send the speaker the full 100 watts when an unequalized speaker would be sent 25 watts. When the music hits a burst that calls for the 30 Hz note to played at 100 watts, the equalized speaker cannot do it-it has already used up it's full power.
It is not even all that easy to find a 10" to go down to 30 Hz in a 2 cu ft box. In fact, try going through a list of 8 inchers and see how many tune out to being only 3 dB down at 30 Hz in a box that size.
There are a few others beside the Peerless and Blueprint that will do it, but overall, they are a rare breed.
For multiple plots, just keep clicking "New" on the top. That way you can compare.
Here in this forum, we are lucky to have our own loudspeaker simulation programmer, f4ier, who has made a new version of Subwoofer Simulator. So many people are downloading that one that I have not been able to do so yet.
http://www.geocities.com/f4ier/subsim.htm
So I stick with WinISD for now. Very simple. Hint: click on choice 2 for thickness of line. It comes out much clearer.
As for the Blueprint 1201 in the 2 cu ft box, some have said a 2 dB hump in the response gives added distortion, but I have not found it egregious. Look at the difference in bass output between the Blueprint and the Peerless. Peerless is a very good brand, by the way. You cannot go wrong with the Peerless. But I figured I would just lay it out in front of you.
Finally, let me just add that is going to be difficult to find a 12" subwoofer that is only 3 dB down at 30 Hz without equalization. Equalization is about the most overrated phenomenon in the audio world-it does nothing to add to the speaker's output when it is driven hard. A 100 watt amplifier with 6 dB equalization at 30 Hz will send the speaker the full 100 watts when an unequalized speaker would be sent 25 watts. When the music hits a burst that calls for the 30 Hz note to played at 100 watts, the equalized speaker cannot do it-it has already used up it's full power.
It is not even all that easy to find a 10" to go down to 30 Hz in a 2 cu ft box. In fact, try going through a list of 8 inchers and see how many tune out to being only 3 dB down at 30 Hz in a box that size.
There are a few others beside the Peerless and Blueprint that will do it, but overall, they are a rare breed.
Top choice right now is the Blueprint. I am most concerned with size and price. F3, as long as it is resonable, which the blueprint most certainly is, is of little concern.
I agree with you completely about eq, it is only effective at low listening levels. I do find it very useful when I don't want to play music loudly, but still want to hear the bass. The ear percieves program material differently at different sound levels. At low levels, little bass is percieved, and at high levels, the same program will sound much fuller.
Over-rated it is
I agree with you completely about eq, it is only effective at low listening levels. I do find it very useful when I don't want to play music loudly, but still want to hear the bass. The ear percieves program material differently at different sound levels. At low levels, little bass is percieved, and at high levels, the same program will sound much fuller.
Over-rated it is
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